Before I get flamed, *This product has not been tested with withstand the test of time. I highly recommend you buy the original REAL products, but if you like to
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09-29-2013, 06:55 PM | #1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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DIY: Side Blades/Skirts
Before I get flamed,
*This product has not been tested with withstand the test of time. I highly recommend you buy the original REAL products, but if you like to experiment. Here you go. Whether side blades/skirts are for you or not, I wanted some. I wanted some real bad. I love seeing a 370z with a nice little subtle blade/skirt popping out the sides. I checked online, not going to throw out any names, but most side blades are $200-400 after shipping etc.. Then you have the choice to spend a little more and get CF. Well I wanted the look, without spending the $$$. But i also didn't want something that will make my car look cheap or ricer either. (I'll leave it up to you guys for opinions on whether to keep them on the car or not, but I enjoy the new look and for the price, cant beat it.. ) So here is my little write-up in case you guys have a car show that you are wanting quick side blades for, your saving up for the real deal, or if you are creative and want to make your own! Please note: I split a 12 pack with a buddy of mine because he let me use his garage. So all the pictures aren't in the DIY or perfect. But you guys can use your imagination. Home Depot What I needed (you can make up your own materials or try new ones): 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver 1 Flathead Screwdriver 1 PowerDrill 1 Handsaw 1 Strong Scissors/Exacto Knife 1 1/2 Lattice Molding (Lightweight wood) - 2 Pieces 6 feet long - $10.40 2 24" Sheets of Corrugated Plastic @ 5.68 = $11.36 2 36" Sheets of Corrugated Plastic @ 8.36= $16.72 2 Vinyl Window Siding Pieces @ 4.47 = $8.94 3M Exterior Mounting Tape (20lb Hold) 25 Ft = $15.97 Epoxy Plastic Glue = $3.71 2 Cans Black Plastidip = $11.96 2 Bottles Of Super Glue = $5.96 Gorilla Handyroll Tape = $2.97 8-10 Small Screws (1/2" or so) = $0.50 Total Materials: $88.49 I didn't use everything, didn't look for better pricing, no amazon or ebay purchases,etc... so the price may be a little cheaper then that. Materials 1) Remove the existing splash guards if you have any. (Mine were filthy underneath and required a wet rag to scrub the dirt and crap off) Turn the wheel and remove the two screws in the wheel well. (Phillips Head) Then take the flathead screwdriver and pull the small plastic clip off and the slashguard will come off. Put the plastic clip and screws back into their existing holes. 2) Measure the length of the side of the car that you're building the baldes for I am not sure of the exact length that I used. I threw away my paper that I was using. Anyways measure the length. 3) Start measuring and cutting plastic. Use a ruler or measuring stick and cut out strips of the 36"x"24 corrugated plastic sheets. Make them 8 inches wide and 24" long so each (2) plastic sheet gives you 3 pieces. After the long pieces are cut, start doing the same with the two smaller pieces 24"x18". 4) Attach the two long pieces When you are done cutting, you should have 3 longer pieces, and 2 smaller pieces for each side of the car. Two sides will have perfect edges. Take two longer pieces and connect them by use of either superglue or a strip of gorilla glue. 5) Glue other pieces to the bottom side With the perfect edges facing the outside of the car, glue the other additional pieces to the bottom of the two perfect long 8x24" pieces. This will make sure the plastic is stiff and holds up thru time. The glue stated anywhere from 1-2 hours, so we left both sides glue for about 1 hr in the heat. 6) Measure the vinyl window siding to match the plastic pieces Take the vinyl and place it along the perfect edge of the lip and measure it to size. Once its the exact size you want, superglue and reinforce with gorilla tape so that it sits perfectly along the edge of the plastic blade. 7) Measure wood piece Take the wood piece and measure it to be the length of the sideblade. Use the saw and cut the remaining pieces of wood off. 8) Positioning With the help of a friend, hold the plastic piece up to the car and grab the piece of wood. I decided to use lightweight wood so i can drill into the plastic/body of the car and make sure its sturdy. Position the wood along the plastic side blade, but make sure the wood is angled so when you drill, you will only drill into the cars body/plastic. When you have the wood placed properly along the blade, tape it down in place, and epoxy glue + super glue it to the plastic in that EXACT position. 9) Plastidipping Piece Once your piece is assembled, you can make an area with some newspapers and plasti-dip both sides of the blade. I used a can of dip for each side blade 10) 3M Tape Wipe the underside of the car with cleaner and grab your 3M tape. Go to town on the underside of the car. Make sure any areas that will be touching the side blade have adhesive so it grabs on.. 11) Add Blade With the help of a friend, align the side blade perfectly and then push up on the 3M tape. Make sure that you have the position you want before you push up on the 3M tape because chances are that it wont come off once its on. 12) Drill & Spot Check Grab your 4-5 small screws and using your power drill, screw into the wood and plastic body on the underside of the car. I was skeptical about drilling into the bottom of the car, but really its just a lot of plastic and I don't plan on selling the side skirts since they already are slightly damaged from scrapes. Once its on there good, go around and trim the pieces that are too far under the car. Also, add 3M tape where necessary. Having the car on the jack helps you get under the car and make sure there's no spots that will flap, stick out, etc..
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2009 Brilliant Silver BASE 7AT | TEIN S-Tech Springs | K&N Drop Ins & z1 Maf Tubes | AAM S-Line Short Tails | 5% Tint | 20MM Spacers | Sport Spoiler NickTurnon's 370z Build Last edited by NickTurnon; 09-29-2013 at 10:04 PM. |
09-30-2013, 01:58 AM | #2 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: South Orange County, CA
Posts: 422
Drives: 2010 370Z Silver A7
Rep Power: 15 |
Nicely done. Check out my photo album and you can see my similar mod.
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2010 Brilliant Silver, Base w/Sport Package, AT7, Katzkin leather, upgraded audio and lots of Dynamat and a bunch of small stuff. |
09-30-2013, 10:34 AM | #4 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
I really liked yours, but from the pics i couldn't tell how heavy it was, and how long it stuck out. So i had to create something different
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2009 Brilliant Silver BASE 7AT | TEIN S-Tech Springs | K&N Drop Ins & z1 Maf Tubes | AAM S-Line Short Tails | 5% Tint | 20MM Spacers | Sport Spoiler NickTurnon's 370z Build |
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09-30-2013, 03:30 PM | #6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Houston/Saint Augustine
Posts: 2,681
Drives: '18 Audi TT RS
Rep Power: 20215 |
Nice job OP!
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Waiting on the Z35! SOLD - 2011 Gun Metallic Touring 7AT w Sports Pkg & Nav, Nismo Bumper and Rims, RC Grille, RC Brake Ducts, H&R Spacers, Painted Door Hdls, GTR Start Button, Nav By-Pass, EVO R Fog Light, CF Ducktail, CF Interior Trim |
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