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I have had a few people PM about what to do about the moisture in their headlights. So I looked into it and this is what I found. Moisture is
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A True Z Fanatic
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I have had a few people PM about what to do about the moisture in their headlights. So I looked into it and this is what I found. Moisture is entering the light either from a brake in the lights seal or the access cap.
1. There is the black silicon sealant that run around the entire light and assists with holding the 2 half's of the light together. Some times thin sealant areas can allow moisture in if not re-sealed properly when put back together. 2. There is a cap on the underside of the light that has a rubber "O Ring" to help seal it. When left on during cooking or warming up the light it can cause damage to rubber. Also they are a pain in the A$$ to get on nice and tight so if rushed they will not seal and allow moisture into the light. Solution: 1st step: If you have moisture in your light you can access the cap from under the front fender liner. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GFyw6_WlYk&feature=youtu.be Inspect the cap before you remove it to see if its on correctly or was put on loose. Next you can remove the cap and blow out the moisture with a blow dryer. When your done you can tape a moisture pack to the back of the cap and lube the O-Ring then re-install the cap. Make sure its on correctly and it's fully seated. 2nd step: Now we wait; if the light gets more moisture then you know the problem is the black silicon sealant around the light. You can go here and get factory type replacement sealant http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=792 . Now you will have to remove the lights, warm them up and split them apart to replace the sealant. Or you can send me your lights and I'll re-seal them for you ![]() Also if you have crystallization inside your light you may want to think about cleaning it out and resealing with UV Protection. Huck wrote an amazing thread to show us this on the outside, but I don't see why you can't do it on the inside either. At your own risk of course ![]() Hope the YouTube Video helps.. Its easy and the hole process getting to the access cap was 6 min! Its worth trouble shooting the problem to save you time in the long run.. Hope this helps.. ![]()
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Did new cool science stuff to the car !!!
http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Pretty sweet. I need to pull mine apart to fix some electrical stuff with the custom mods done by another person. Heat from engine bay softened the seals and I get moisture after washing the car. Either that or sell my headlights and have someone help me disassemble a new set so I can do the nods myself.
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A True Z Fanatic
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Did new cool science stuff to the car !!!
http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Disassemble bumper and take lights out: 10min Brake down the light: 5-10min Bake light: 7min Open housing: 1-2min Apply sealant: 2-3min Rebake: 7min Reassemble light: 5-10min Reassemble car: 10min Total Max Time: 59 min Also all of the headlights I personally did including mine sealed up perfectly with just reusing the stock sealant. So you might find they just need rebaked because the sealant was to thick when they reassembled the lights. But at that point just use a little extra.
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|445whp398tq| |BW S259 Turbo|3" Downpipe\Exhaust|ID1000|AeroMotive|Tial|EcuTek|BC BR|S0-4|MaffFab| MKGs-Single-Turbo Last edited by MyKindaGuise; 12-02-2012 at 09:51 PM. |
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