Steering lock problem solved etc: but not "problems"

fritz

The original facts of "switch optional" thread were not completely grabbed .. in spite of some nice comments one way or another. It was NOT limited to the otherwise excellent added "harness".
Thanks a lot to bdl who on 18-June-2012 gave some comparison on the "switch optional" thread, thus saving me showing apparent "sour grapes"!

The "Switch optional" thread was for speed, inspections, safety stazi, service, or security.
It gives (at the flick of a switch any time...no fear):
a) OE (stock) mode or
b) Lock cycles eliminated
c) IMPROVED vehicle security whereby the OE key, or a hacked key, is rejected.

..Twisting or clipping the cut wire can do the same thing in a minute or so and
It is done far from electronics centers and is virtually undetectable.
Professionalism (but DIY safe) was added.
"Cutting the brownie" is a pro thread by rhd with attention to detail/photos.
A harness (a "snip" at 50 USD!) can be fitted in seconds, with no snip to the OE wire.
rhd's thread "Cutting the brownie", makes switch fitting a snap.
......And a kitchen table comes in handy for wiring a switch to a harness..then fitting it.

Then came "For Real": 5stars and gung-ho euphoria.....too good to be true...but apparently excellent for some folk.
The fuse, labelled, is in the "non-serviceable" IPDM. DIY errors there are easy.
After pulling hood, the lock may engage...so fuse removal may need to be done again.
Time to get there and back is 10 mins claimed (way, way, OTT for me)
[BUT NOTED that some people could not get the stock harness off fast (try asking your kid!). But It was not necessary for the wire snip! ]
Bat neg is best dis for this. (Radio stations lost and re-program windows)
Two CPU circuits are dis. OK-ish here, but very ill-advised as routine DIY.
IPDM is a babe ! Be gentle and with its 100 odd feed cables. They
(too short ?) may get pulled internally. Possible drama. Consult3 handy?
Windshield base protection is uncovered (See Nissan TSB). Cover re-fit takes patience.
Bat reconnect if needed must be firm...or get very costly results.
"A DIY with too many risks attached"? Arguable....BUT....

It cannot do a comprehensive job "for real", (but does one job nicely).

"Pulling a fuse" at first blush seems so simple, but not from the IPDM...was not for me.

Dealer (ever able to pass blame perhaps);
"Electronics probs?" ...."And who fiddled?" "For real?" "Electronics HQ, has no fuse !"
Shite happens.

Inspection drama:
"Fail... due to steering lock is a legal requirement and not working".

Key hacked? OE key stolen ?
Car stolen ? ...You COULD have prevented that (by the flick of a secret switch or even a wire twist.)

Doing "stuff" at a circuit "end user" still seems the way to go, but I've said that before !

Fritz

Baer383

All of the problems you stated about removing the fuse,they may be true but no one and I mean no one has had any of of these issues.

When all of this hoopla with the steering locks was going on BDL pm me and we talk about it and I decided to back away and stay out of it and then it all died down,now you have to be bored one day and post this to rehash issues.

People on this forum are smart enough to figure out which is best for them not you telling people that all these "BAD" things are going to happen.

__________________
2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

MyZ4U2C

I know I don't regret pulling the fuse...in fact pulling the fuse has lifted a huge weight off my shoulders knowing I'm not going to end up in some random area not able to start my car and have it towed to a dealer while most likely being without my car for days...zero problems and the best " mod " I will ever have done and it was free......who's to say a thief can't Jimmy the door open and pop the damn hood and take out the fuse? Least of my worries..

kenny's 370z

^x2.peace of mind and lack of inconvenience is where its at.still no problems on my end.to tell you the truth,i dont even think about it anymore.total win !

kenchan

ive still not done anything further on my steering lock other than replace it with a new one. my working original still resides in my truck next to my wrench for a easy swap.

still waiting for someone's car to fail. if it doesn't fail, fantastic. i will keep this option open. for me, it's the brown wire snip. easist.

GaleForce

as close to the source as you can get without opening up the steering lock.

We are lucky to have a few options for getting around a potential problem.

__________________

SouthArk370Z

Looking at WW-73 and WW-74 of the 2009 FSM, I see:
IPDM Fuse 48 (10A) supplies, internally, the Steering Lock Relay Coil (SLRL) and the corresponding contact (SLRC).

The other side of the SLRL is connected internally to the CPU and then, I assume, to ground. The coil has to have a ground somewhere and the wiring diagrams show no other route.

The switched side of SLRC goes out to the Steering Lock Unit (SLU) via pin 11 of the IPDM.

The switched side of SLRC is also internally fed to an input of the IPDM CPU. As far as I know, no one has been able to verify what this input does, but, going by the description of how the system is supposed to work, I'm reasonably sure that it is just a "Battery Power to SLU via SLR Verified" signal. Judging by the fact that no one is reporting any error codes or problems after removing the fuse, I'd say it's unimportant. YMMV