Steering Lock entry and immobiliser delete (no photos)

fritz

Undo the cable tie for the lock harness: you'll need the length later.
Remove the lock (See Kenchan's script ---it's easy).
Tape over the greasy gap in the steering column.
The lock has 4 depressions each with two indents.
Drill each indent 2 mm deep and no more, with a 3/8" drill bit.
Connect each pair of indent centers by Dremmel type cutter or hacksaw.
The lock body is double layered. cut through one layer (2 mm max)!
Lift/bend off the 4 resulting plates.
Prise up and off the "free fall" cover (it's big internally).
Undo 2 screws holding the circuit board.
Lift off the circuit board VERY carefully and evenly.
The board must not be distorted in any way or it will break invisibly.
Pull off the electric motor if it is attached. (It just pulls off, evenly).
Ignore the sliding plastic (with magnet attached).
Clean grease with Q tips only. No detergent/alcohol/etc.
There's two "sensor" microswitches on the board.
Very gently push the "tits" in (2.5mm max) and release. Repeat often.
The board, with "tits" pushed 1.8-2.2mm, to be fitted in an eyeglass case.
(An eyeglass case will tuck away without screws, near the key port)
Note that to secure the board the 2 screw head ODs must be small.
Cut an old car radio antenna for correct length small OD spacers.
Connect the new board assembly to the car.
Engine should start.
A small "key" wng light shows you're AOK. (and according to your manual it's thus OK to drive to your Nissan dealer... (if you must !))
Failure to start ? Maybe you had another problem? But see below.

Since the microswitch contacts no longer slide there should be no more contact arcing to induce "silicon" residue preventing contact.
"Excess oil", "wrong type of oil" or resin (glue) deterioration are known for silicon deposits on switch contacts. Nissan have a 2.3 million recall for this problem on safety related switchgear. Not learning ?

Panasonic make the microswitches, not the locks. Panasonic tech info actually warns of grease fouling! (But you'll find plenty of grease).

Gently exercising the microswitches should move the internal sliding contact area enough to remove accumulated residue from the normal switch contacts position: which you change anyhow at 1.8-2.2mm.

Alternatively cut off the top of the microswitches and solder the "tit" contacts to the central contacts of each microswitch respectively.

Soldering the tags at the circuit board will be no use unless the
microswitches are held pressed...or are cut to disconnect them internally.

Consult 3 together with the service manual will give good indication as to whether it is the lock at fault rather than ECU/ BDM problems. It will not tell you what was wrong with a lock.....just to renew it......Kenchan wrote that Series A, B or even C reportedly have "wrong oil" or similar problems. Nissan have kinda admitted just that.

The lock manufacturers are not Nissan, but sub-contractors unable by contract to act independently. A helpful representative there quietly confirmed by phone that the "sensors" (microswitches) were the problem.

Removal of the "free fall" cover and/or the one external screw, very cleverly locks you out of intended repairs to the lock itself and makes you buy a newie. [500 USD (or 1477 EUR in Europe)].
To solve that: E-mail me with your name, chassis number and lock info, plus your entire acceptance of risk, and agreement to confidentiality.

The actual circuit board originates from 2007 GTRs (aka "D52E" in Nissan-speak, probably printed on the board).

Fritz
And I still need to know, on VVEL relays, where they were made (hard to see) and the number written below that: not the part number.

Ni55anPat

Hmmm

MyZ4U2C

In for info

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40th Anniversary Fairlady Z - Tommy Kaira - FI CF CBE - Stillen Gen 3

Vaughanabe13

This DIY doesn't exactly explain anything. Some background info about what this DIY does would be helpful.

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2009 Nissan 370Z Touring, w/sport, 6MT, chicane yellow/black.

axio

Vaughanabe, check out this thread and it'll explain what it is for:

DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

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GTM Stg II SC w/ Aquamist methanol injection, GTM oil cooler, Berk HFC, Stillen CBE, BC ER coilovers, Hotchkis sways, TWM short shifter, Clutch spring mod, CarboTech XP8s

zero

Do you know the Panasonic micro switch part number used on this lock mechanism?

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rhd

I am busy at my job for about a month and a half, mid May I will attempt this mod.

Some DIY pics of this would be nice.

Every time I start my car I get the "dreaded" thought

I have a rev C, but the thought still goes through my head...

Thanks for the info!

+ rep

fritz

Zero wrote:
Do you know the Panasonic micro switch part number used on this lock mechanism?

Yes: "ASQ11510" on the lock. "ASQ11510J" on the plastic baggy with a new
one inside.....Maybe the "J" is an update ???.
Also on the bag was "699-0160". They turned out to be unexpectedly cheap at 3 or 4 Euros max each.
Yagoogle ASQ11510 for the Panasonic data sheets the last one of which states the suggested uses and that grease/oil are to be avoided.

There's two microswitches either one of which can leave you immobilised.

Let's know how you go!

Fritz

fritz

rhd wrote:
Some DIY pics of this would be nice.

When "on the job" I don't ..er.. stop for photos !

I can write an intruction manual and if you follow it step by step you will have no problems.

...If you do, then private message me.

Fritz

L33T Z34

Nice write up Fritz! Repped. F**7( Nissan for not initiating a RECALL for this problem.

fritz

L33T Z34 wrote
Nice write up Fritz! Repped. F**7( Nissan for not initiating a RECALL for this problem.

Many thanks for that: Apparently Nissan hands are full with other models with the same lock. We are (apparently!) bottom of the food chain. Recalls involve safety so Nissan can slide out of this as there's no danger element, yet.

Further:

The EEC, and here, have comprehensive vehicle inspections. Steering locks are included, starting in May for UK.

So do not massacre the lock casing!
a) It is easy to put together if you took it apart as posted, but the details of doing so are long.
(Tape will not do the job as the electric motor produces a lot of torque and the cover must not lift... but tape is AOK as a get you home if the electric motor is not in the lock and the lock element and plunger are free to hit the microswitches.
b) Enabling/freeing the lock plunger is available from me by e-mail only.
c) It has two internal springs which fool you into thinking it can retract when It can't.

Within a week or two I'll have a tested system whereby the whole lock gets occasional use only (like once a year for test ?)

A secret switch will render the whole assembly out of circuit, but not immobilised, until needed.

The lock gets a lot of use (it gets a lot of use!) to build up silica deposits on sliding contacts.

And, the lock plunger makes direct contact with the microswitches but, with wear, will place a lateral load on them: probably undesirable---they're fragile.
Shaking the lock is known to get you out of trouble but each shake probably also puts a lateral load on the switches...which, long term, may not help.

What a breedin' drama !

Fritz

zero

Thanks, Fritz. The switches are normally close. If you removed the switches off the circuit board, they would be normally open. this would pass-by the switches as if the switches were pressed all the time. I saw one guy was doing it and the car started without any problem.

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fritz

Zero wrote
Thanks, Fritz. The switches are normally close. If you removed the switches off the circuit board, they would be normally open. this would pass-by the switches as if the switches were pressed all the time. I saw one guy was doing it and the car started without any problem.

That seems, in effect, to be unplugging the board (or the whole lock) which on my car it is a definite nogo.

The idea's of great interest ! But I think the guy you saw had something else up his sleeve : I'd love to be proved wrong.

When the steering is locked the switches are "released", yes, but
when "released" the "tit" terminal is connected to the outer "hole" terminal on each switch.

When the steering is unlocked the "tit" is pressed so its terminal is connected to the center terminal of the switch.

It is that contact: the slide of the contact which appears to cause the arcing and consequent problems. MMMThe resultant silica prevents "tit" terminal from connecting to the centre....which is the same effect as removing the switchMMM.

Un-soldering each switch is a good idea (if there's no gummt inspection) but then the centre terminal of each switch would have to be connected to the "tit" terminal----a quick, (almost invisible ?) wave of a soldering gun!

Best to buy a switch for disection to understand.
or disect your own. Always there's the faint hope that the center terminals are more b/s to fool us (me).

Switch Disection: The blue plastic covering is about a quarter milimeter (a few "thou") thick. The rest of the switch body is hard black plastic.
Slice off the blue at the "tit" end of the switch and check out the innards.

Doing anything other than what I wrote is a risk to BDM/ECUs or other electronics unless you're a really hi-tech tech (who'd be very, very, welcome!)

Please do give an up-date.

Fritz



hard plastic

fritz

This thread seems forgotten:
Also my thread in March (last year) same thing.

Precis: Stuff the electronics in an eyeglass case: Dump the heavy lock.
The eyeglass case slides neatly to the left and back.

The microswitches: (Some unhelpful sod trying for a hole-in-one said to remove them.......so my other thread died.

Hold the microswitches with a screwed plate (no tape) but they may be U/S
so:

OR slice off the tops-with-the-tits (careful!) of the microswitches (which according to the German Manufacturers (though made in the USA) are unofficially a "problem".

Be sure the "hole" connector (#2 with magnifier) is disconnected. It was very close to the center connector.

Now solder the center connector #3 to the plunger connector #1. Job done, but keep the heat away from the board so solder fast and allow to cool before soldering the next one.

Other possible fail is in the 2 micron relays. probably easy to deal with provided you understand that......

The Brown wire is Positive to lock and Negative to unlock or vise versa.

Further: the board MUST be free of grease. Grease can allow tracking: Use an appropriate circuit board cleaner....but keep it off the relays which are supposed to be sealed: "supposed".

OK fellahs...who'se the next biggie to take pot shots at an old Fritz engineer
who dislikes wars...or insults...or b/s or trolls...so comes back seldom.

GaleForce

Thanks for the update Fritz

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