60K Mile Coolant Change

radensb

I just hit 64K miles and have done all the other 60K maintenance stuff except the coolant change. I have read the FSM and checked out many threads on the forum about this and *think* I have a good understanding on what to do.

First off, many of the user preformed coolant changes discuss flushing the system with DI water (or distilled) to remove all of the old coolant vs removing the drain plugs on the block. It seems accessing the drain plugs on the block is a PITA. Is the multi-flush with DI an equivalent procedure?

I also plan to stick with Nissan Coolant. It seems people insist of flushing the coolant if using something other than Nissan OEM to ensure compatibility. My car is an '09 and has the green coolant in it, but it seems like the Blue stuff replaced it at some point (maybe when they went to a pressurized reservoir system?). I assume the newer Blue coolant is compatible with the green? If so, does that make the flush less important?

Many have talked about vacuum bleeding, but the FSM doesn't mention this and there is no bleed valve in the back heater hose. Is this something that is model year specific?

Thanks for the clarification!

My plan is to jack up the front of the car and drain the radiator. Then, flush once with DI water (for good measure) and replace the radiator hoses and thermostat (since its fairly easy to get to at that point). Finally, fill the radiator from the neck using Nissan Blue coolant with the top radiator bleed seal removed until it spills out. I got a radiator fill kit from Amazon to preform the "burp" procedure to finish filling the system and remove any air pockets while the front of the car is elevated.

Seems pretty straight forward and inline with other videos and discussions I have reviewed. Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

Tractionless

Get coolant test strips and see if it's still chemically balanced enough to stay in. No reason to change it if so.

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radensb

Thanks for the info. The main reason was because when I got my last oil change, the dealer pointed out that the thermostat housing body was showing signs of leaking and that my upper and lower hoses were showing signs of age. I also noticed that my overflow tank was bone dry.

They wanted close to $1K to do that work (lol). So, I ordered a new seal and hoses for ~$25 and was going replace the coolant anyway. It's probably long overdue. Interesting, I didn't know that you could test the coolant. Might give it a shot our of curiosity.

Dreadnaught

Based on my training and experience as a Technician for 8 years now, you can't go wrong with servicing fluids early according to manufacturer guidelines. Fluids are always getting better, but, I believe manufacturers put such high service intervals on fluids to save people money.

Once you drain your coolant, install a new o-ring on the drain plug and lubricate it with clean coolant before installing. Also install a new o-ring on the bleed plug and lubricate it with clean coolant. Just make sure the car is on level ground when filling the radiator. Fill the radiator slowly to help prevent catching air in the system. Get the bleed plug ready to install once coolant starts coming out. Keep filling the radiator and once the coolant is above the upper hose, install the radiator cap. Start your car and let the coolant get up to operating temperature. Feel the lower hose to make sure the thermostat opens. Finally check the coolant level in the reservoir and add to between the high and low lines. Take your car for a road test. Check your coolant level once more.

I serviced my coolant at 47k, 50k and 53k. So theoretically all of the old coolant should be out of the system per what the manual states the cooling system holds. I used about a gallon and a half of coolant each time. My car uses the blue coolant. Make sure the blue coolant can be used with the green coolant.

I also installed a new radiator cap and coolant reservoir cap at the 53k mark.

Also lubricate the upper and lower hose o-rings with clean coolant before I stalling them so the don't tear and end up with them leaking.

I know the blue coolant is a 50/50 mix so check to see if the green is as well. If you have to use the green coolant only add distilled water and NOT tap water if it does not already come in a 50/50 mix.

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Tractionless

Well then all of those other issues certainly change things.

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