How I set up my flex Fuel...

Girald

Ive had a few in the community ask me how i set up my flex fuel system..\\
So figured I would lay it out....\


Now, mind you, the goal for me was to set up a system that was good for forced induction, but can scale up for more power.



Pump and return:
450 Walbro w e85 prefilter
CJ Motosrports Fuel return system w e85 options

Do these together, so you can put the fittings on the oem hat together., and you wont have to take the pump out countless times to get it right.... BTW. The pump house is fragile and it can break.. be gentle...

FOR THE PUMP, There's 2 plates you have to remove... one is a bulkhead that seals the interior of the car, and the pump hat ring. buy some fuel resistant gasket maker. you will want to cover the top side of the hat ring and screws later... There's a circular gasket.. make sure it is seated properly...

DO NOT LOSE THE SCREWS FOR THE PUMP HAT RING.

you will have to refer to CJM's guide on gutting out the oem pump housing... I used a dremel with disk and cylinder cutting bits and followed directions. Most of it was straight forward, but i had forgotten the bit about drilling out the venturi nozzle. (dont forget that part) I had to pull out the damn pump again after the fact.

VENTURI FYI - If you dont drill it out, you will have 70+psi that you cant control w the regulator. If you drill it too wide, the drivers side tank wont siphon into the passenger (pump side)

The pump wont stand on its own with your oem wiring harness. I bought a 2 conductor bulkhead adapter so i could run 2 thicker (14 -12 Gauge) wires direct to the pump. I also bought a relay kit.

Relay kits are pretty straight forward. You will run it based on the instructions .. Basically, you are pulling power from the battery, and using the old oem power as a switch.. If you dont get a relay kit, you stand the chance of overheating and melting the oem harness... good luck re-running that if it cooks somewhere where you cant repair it.

I also used the aeromotive pump speed controller to increase longevity to the pump, but I wont get into that, since that would be a long *** thread of its own...

--- So now you should have the 450 pump set up pump hat plumbed with the fuel bulkhead fitting and electrical bulkhead fitting , wire relay run...

FOR THE FUEL RETURN:
I bought the S1.E kit, so my info is based on that,.
CJ Motorsports has a pretty comprehensive instruction manual....

FYI: You definitely want the heat shielding option if you are twin turbo'ing the car..

For the feed line - make sure you LUBE up the line in the section that you are sending up the side of the tank. running the line is the pita of the install. the orientation of the 90 degree end fitting is also important...

SO, my return kit didnt come with connections for a flex fuel sensor... so, I took the line that goes from the pressure regulator to the hardline (the return)... I brought it to a hydraulics shop with the flex fuel sensor, They made me a new PTFE hose with 2 Fuel Quick connect Female adapters to accommodate the sensor.



Flex Gauges/sensors..
For my build, I chose the Innovate ECB-1. Installing gauges is something ive youtube'd and posted threads about, so ill skip this.
Heres one of them...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8kmasenp8w


The rest is pretty straight forward... the checks you want to do now lie in the pressure... if you are still OEM, the pressure should be regulated at 52 -54 psi..

your tuner will instruct you on the injectors that you need and the spark plugs that you will need..

Have fun

__________________
AAM tt'ed // Soon: Moving back to the East Coast

JARblue

FWIW, when ordering the parts from CJM it may be worth while for many to go ahead and purchase his billet top hat as well, as the oem top hat is plastic and prone to getting brittle and breaking

__________________