Clutch switch problem

TBatt

I'm hoping someone here has seen this problem.

I replaced the clutch pedal this weekend with an RJM V3 (went from the V1 so I've done this before) and now I can't start the car because I get a press clutch message. I've unmounted the switch from the pedal so that I can hold the plunger down and still I get the clutch warning. I have checked the switch with a meter and it is normally open and when the plunger is depressed it reads less than one ohm resistance so the switch is working.

Next I installed a jumper wire across the wiring harness connector terminals and still get the clutch warning message.

No codes are set according to my OBDII reader.

I'm searching through the FSM and don't see anything about this yet.

Any ideas?

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

Zthirty4NISMO

I believe there's logic built in with both the lower and upper switches. You won't be able to start the car the the pedal up against the upper cruise switch even if you are depressing the lower clutch switch in-hand. The pedal has to be off the upper switch and the lower switch depressed.

Not sure of your pedal position when doing your tests, but that's what I found out at least..

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TBatt

According to the FSM, the clutch switch goes to the IPDM module under the hood pin 30 and pin 46 so with that bit of info hopefully I can see if the module is seeing the switch.

After all I did this weekend just to be stopped by this issue.........

Upgraded the clutch (South Bend Stage 3 Daily), added test pipes and did a complete replacement of all of the clutch system (pedal, master cylinder, ZSpeed HD CSC).

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

littlejuanito

Have you spoken with Ryan at RJM?

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Fast Intentions Non-Resonated Carbon Fiber CBE | Berk Non-Resonated HFC | Powertrix Coilovers | RJM Clutch Pedal | LatheWerks Shift Knob | Stillen Sway Bars, |SPL Parts | Enkei RS05RR | Fujimura Diffuser | Ecutek Tuned by Seb | 308whp

TBatt

He is on my list to contact to see if he has any ideas. Ryan may have seen this. I'll shoot him a message right now while I'm thinking about it.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

mults

I had a bad switch a few years ago, and once replaced, the problem of starting went away too. I also tested the switch with a continuity tester and it showed that it was good.

If you look at the attachment, you can see both switches. The one I replaced was the lower one...Like others have said, both switches need to be open or closed at the correct time in order to let the car start.

Attached Files

CLUTCH_SWITCHES.pdf (203.7 KB, 109 views)

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mults
40th Anniversary 'Z', 312.06HP/260.58TQ (Dynosty EcuTek Tune)
Build Date/Number: 1/27/2010 #706
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TBatt

The two switches are independent and are not related for starting. One switch is used to disable the cruise control when you push the clutch in (he upper one on the RJM V3 pedal) and the other switch is part of the starting circuit that requires the pedal to be fully depressed to complete the circuit to the start relay.

I'll be back on this tonight and will let you know what I find.

Ryan did offer several suggestions that I had already tried so I'm on my own for this trouble shooting. It has got to be something simple.

Attached Images

Starter wiring.PNG (47.7 KB, 69 views)

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TreeSemdyZee

Stupid question, but are you sure you put the right switch in the right position? If


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TBatt

Yes, they are correct. The way the wiring harness is you would have a difficult time swapping the two. I did check it both ways though.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TBatt

Last night I found the problem. A connector was not fully seated on the transmission harness that has the hookups for the O2 sensors. There is a single wire connector that goes up near the starter motor that was not seated all of the way. When it was fixed the car started up.

After I checked that the fuse and switch was good I knew it just had to be something simple and it was.

Thanks everyone for your input. You just never know what a problem is until you find the solution.
Tim

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

Kzonts

Was this just a crazy coincidence that it happened during your clutch pedal upgrade?

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2019 Magnetic Black Roadster
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TBatt

Not really, the transmission was out for a clutch upgrade. That is why the connector was loose. It was my fault (don't let my wife know it though).

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!