hello everyone =] new '13 Z owner here and i'd like to keep this car looking as pristine as possible. it's pearl white with Ray's 19inchers. i'm new to the
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05-04-2013, 04:12 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Jersey
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Drives: '13 White Z w/SP 6MT
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long-term exterior protection?
hello everyone =]
new '13 Z owner here and i'd like to keep this car looking as pristine as possible. it's pearl white with Ray's 19inchers. i'm new to the whole washing/waxing business as i've never really owned a car that'd really deserve such treatment until now =P so i'd like to know what products you guys use to protect your car's exterior from road salts, water deposits, and other debris from scratching/dulling the paint. do you use wax? film? coating? is it relatively easy to maintain with your method? trying not to break my bank with these $1000 services... also what would you recommend to protect the rims from getting dirty? thank you! |
05-04-2013, 06:58 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Opti-Coat or clear-bra.
If you're talking regular washing/waxing, pick up either an acrylic or synthetic sealant. Spend some time on Autogeekonline Auto Detailing Forum and you can learn a TON!
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05-05-2013, 10:20 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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I've always kept my cars washed but have never used a claybar or or waxed before. Friday night I washed and then did my first clay treatment and waxed and it looks better than it ever has. I used Griot's claybar (bought from amazon) and then waxed using Optimum spray wax. Yes, it's a spray wax that's as good as a paste. You spray it on and then wipe right off and can wax your car in 10 minutes. And yes, you can wax your rims, trim, headlights and tails etc with it as it doesn't damage the trim so you can apply it everywhere. I also clayed the windows and windshield and pulled off a lot of dirt.
Watch a few videos on these two procedures and you'll be looking much better and have protection for your paint. You would think your new car has flawless paint but the truth is it's filthy most likely. During transit from the factory to the dealership the car's paint gets rail dust and all sorts of contaminates in its paint which the claybar will fix and make your paint as smooth as glass. If you run your finger over your paint it probably feels rough and gritty which means you need to clay. I watched a few videos on the claybar and waxing with Optimum spray wax and did both with ease on Friday. You only need to clay once or twice a year if that so it's not even a pain. Optimum also has a polish that I'm going to be buying that you apply before the wax but the point of all of this is you don't have to spend 6 hours to get your car looking good and protected. I washed, clayed and waxed in 3 hours on Friday. When I came out to my car in the WalMart parking lot yesterday there was a group of teens taking pics with their cellphones. I thought "mission accomplished" and smiled lol P.S. I didn't take pics as it was dark when I got finished but did take one yesterday after installing my new vanity plate. The paint has that mirror finish that it's never had before and looks brilliant. When people ask if my car is new and I says it's a 2009 Z they don't believe me lol That's the power of having good looking paint. Here's the pic: Last edited by 370zGatorman; 05-05-2013 at 10:33 AM. |
05-05-2013, 02:18 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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I had less that 2000 miles on my Z and I could feel the crap on the car after washing it without the recommended plastic bag over the hand to test if the car needs claying. What surprised me was the white clay turned red after cleaning the different panels.
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05-06-2013, 01:24 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 25
Drives: '13 White Z w/SP 6MT
Rep Power: 12 |
Thanks guys for all the info. Spent some time looking at videos and autogeek how-tos. I admittedly a bit overwhelmed by the amount of product required to properly care for a car's exterior!
Since my car's is still new, I'm planning to give it a good wash, clay, and get some carnauba wax. Then sealing it all in with opti-coat. Clear bras are nice but a bit high on my price range. Polishing won't be necessary correct? There's only a few traces of sticky dirt and pollen I know will come out after a good wash/clay. |
05-06-2013, 04:38 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Do not wax before opticoat!
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05-06-2013, 10:32 PM | #12 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 25
Drives: '13 White Z w/SP 6MT
Rep Power: 12 |
ahh.. yes thanks for the heads up. i just checked their site and they wanted all waxes, silicones, etc. off the car before applying opti-coat.. i'm guessing it doubles as a shiner?
anyone here care to share any experience with opt-coat 2.0? and of course i'll wash it regularly and keep it in my garage. no brainer! |
05-07-2013, 10:58 AM | #13 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
It is not a substitution for a clear bra, which is a much stronger form of protection from physical damage. Opti-coat should be applied to a completely clean (meaning no waxes, sealants, or the like) and pristine panel. If you have light scratches, paint chips, or any other defect in the paint, those should be addressed before applying Opti-coat. You want the panel looking 100% like how you would want it for the rest of the time you own the car. I suggest working on one panel at a time. The process on a non-prepped panel would be: - Wash with whatever car wash product you have laying around- mix in a small amount of Adam's All Purpose Cleaner to help remove wax - Use a clay bar or equivalent tool on the panel to remove debris and leftover wax - Spray a dilution of isopropyl alcohol (the rubbing kind at the drug store) and water to remove any leftover product caused by claying At this point you should have a clean panel that's ready for prep. - Fix any rock chips with Dr. Colorchip - Fix any swirls or light scratches (anything that doesn't catch on your fingernail) with a DA polisher and appropriate pads- too much info on that for this post Now, your panel should be prepped correctly for the Opti-coat. Apply the opti-coat. It doesn't take much at all. Read the instructions on the side of the bottle. Several drops will be necessary to prep your applicator and only a few drops will be needed as you continue to apply it. Be sure to READ THE DIRECTIONS, as timing is important when it comes to using the product. The Opti-coat dries very quickly. Once you're done applying, you're ready for a good sealant and wax once the sealant cures. It's a lot of work, but if you focus on one panel at a time, it's not as bad. Also, once you do this, you're good for quite a while. |
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