I installed swift springs back when I had stock wheels and got an alignment. The fronts were able to get back to factory but the rear was off by .4
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04-14-2014, 01:37 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Alignment back to factory after swift. Now new wheels
I installed swift springs back when I had stock wheels and got an alignment. The fronts were able to get back to factory but the rear was off by .4 - .6 degrees of to much negative camber due to its max adjustability.
I purchased new wheels recently with the offsets closer to flush. Should I get another alignment or would it stay the same as with the stock wheels? Also I know I will need and probably should get rear camber arms which I have a few questions about. 1. Is it worth spending extra money on SPL if the car will never see a track? 2. Ive seen posts about the SPL causing a harsher ride to do the different design. Is this true? 3. Is rear camber arms all I need or do I need a kit that includes the toe bolts? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks. |
04-14-2014, 02:13 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Alignment won't change. The wheels bolted to the hub face, that angle doesn't change.
You have a 30k car. If your life and quality mean something don't buy whats snapped and poor china quality. That'd be anything besides spl. Don't risk the car or your life over $100. Buy spl and do it right. I think they were talking about other spl parts like solid bushings or harder poly motor or tranny mounts. The self lubed Teflon tie rod ends on all the arms are very smooth! If you want the full package you need mid links if OEM or toe links if you have true coilovers. I don't like eccentric toe and camber bolts as the can slip. I'd do a lockout bolt kit if you have the money with one of the arms I mentioned.
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04-14-2014, 04:53 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Yeah... toe bolts in back and a-arms for the front. I just did the kits and got back to spec. I hated it after driving for 8 months on swifts with as close to spec as they could get it. I went back and had some neg. camber put back in. It's at the max in spec. -1.4 front & -2.1 back. It handles much better now.
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04-14-2014, 05:19 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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The rear like I said I'd do mid links and a lockout kit. You could get ok numbers with bigger aftermarket eccentric bolts though but again they can slip. I'd get a lifetime alignment at like firestone or somewhere if you go the cheaper route.
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04-14-2014, 07:56 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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I like the setup I have now traction wise if the alignment didn't change with wider tires and a flush offset. I just don't want to eat up my rear tires quickly with too much camber. |
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04-14-2014, 07:57 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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04-14-2014, 08:24 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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AMS... It's the same kit as Kinetix. Nice kit for the price, but AMS's customer service isn't the best. They're not Z specialists... I chose this type because the front camber can't slip like SPC or Eibach. And the rear parts are beefy. And didn't want to spend the money for SPL. There's not much else...
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04-14-2014, 08:27 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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GL with your new wheels. |
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04-14-2014, 08:31 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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What wheels did you get?
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04-14-2014, 09:45 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Thanks Kenchan. I will most likely get an alignment check first then if the rear are bad enough ill go with SPL.
I haven't taken any pictures yet with the wheels on the car but I have some after I opened up the boxes. They are custom Rennen CSL2. |
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