So, I ordered a set of DBA 5000 T3 Clubspec or whatever the hell it's called 2 piece rotors through Joe@ZSpeed. Now I know that removing unsprung weight is great
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08-26-2013, 10:11 AM | #1 (permalink) |
Premium Member Bitches
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Lets talk about lightweight rotors
So, I ordered a set of DBA 5000 T3 Clubspec or whatever the hell it's called 2 piece rotors through Joe@ZSpeed.
Now I know that removing unsprung weight is great to make the car accelerate faster. But when it's the front discs on a RWD car, will it be affected equally? Also, doing a bit more reading up (I must admit, after the fact) I see that some people are say that 2 piece isn't good for the track because there's less material to accept heat and that some track cars have heavier rotors But DBA's are never really brought up directly, is their vane pattern better that they don't have the "traditional" light weight rotor "problem"? Any other input or suggestions or comments would be great
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08-26-2013, 10:21 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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08-26-2013, 12:19 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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My suggestion is don't worry about it. You will need a lot of track time before getting into issues concerning rotor brake temps. With good fluid and the proper pads you are set.
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08-26-2013, 04:11 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Would a person notice any acceleration change due to lowering the unsprung weight although its not on the driven axle?
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08-26-2013, 04:21 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Removing unsprung weight improves your wheel rate, making it easier to maintain mechanical grip. When it's on the driven wheels, it lowers rotational mass and reduces driveline losses. As far as the heat issue... Personally, additional thermal mass doesn't really help much past the first few stops. Having the hub as part of the total thermal system doesn't dramatically increase the (usable) surface area of the system. It's just metal clamped between the wheel and the hub, so yeah, it might put heat into the wheel as well, which can eventually make it out into the air, but i see it as just making it hard to keep your tire pressures stable. If you have heating issues, install ducting. But before you worry about all that, like DR said, good fluid good pads and you'll be good to go. |
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08-26-2013, 04:22 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
However, you'd have to have quite the butt dyno to be able to tell the difference. I say the DBA rotors are just a good investment in longevity. My OEM rotors warped in 2 days. *sigh
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08-26-2013, 04:39 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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^^ Thanks for the info guys!!!
As for fluid, I have GTR fluid, and I have some Ferodo pads to swap in, I went with them because they were a great deal
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08-30-2013, 02:48 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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- Motul RBF600 If you are going to track the car... accpet NOTHING less than Motul brake fluid. Super Blue sucks (i boiled it)... and is now illegal for some Blue reason.
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08-30-2013, 07:11 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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As far as the rotational inertia part goes, reducing intertia from the front rotors will have the same affect towards increasing overall acceleration as reducing the same amount from the rears since both axles must be accelerated at the same rate (burnouts aside).
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