Brake Upgrade Recommendation

BrianMSmith · 07-08-2013, 08:16 PM

2009 sport touring model, 67k miles on original brakes (everything), yes I tend to drive light on the brakes 98% of the time (see below).

Normal daily driving is fine with what I have, but aggressive driving at 60-100mph with frequent hard (max) braking up on the mountain roads gives me a huge amount of vibration due to rotor warping. This may be caused by high rotor temperatures (only), or perhaps it's the higher speeds where warping becomes noticeable, not sure.

Either way, the rotors and pads need upgrading. Any recommendations for my type of driving, not exactly track driving but aggressive road driving.

Is there also a brake fluid that might improve performance, while I'm at it?

Cost is a consideration in that I don't want to spend more than I need to for my needs, no overkill (no pro race car set ups). Thanks in advance.

Mike · 07-08-2013, 08:44 PM

its pad deposits on the rotors, very common. I would go with brake cooling ducts from stillen, first and foremost, then any rotors and a good sport pad for daily driving. I think the most benefit will come from the cooling ducts though.

wstar · 07-08-2013, 08:50 PM

Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing.

The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps.

If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system:

1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though.

2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors.

3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades.

BrianMSmith · 07-08-2013, 10:12 PM

Can anyone provide installation instructions for the Stilllen brake cooling kit, I'd like to see what I'm in for with this option?

I found a pair of DBA two piece rotors, 5000XS series, for $288 per rotor. Seems like a good deal for a much improved rotor over OEM.

Thanks for the help.

wstar · 07-09-2013, 01:38 PM

Stillen has the PDF of the instructions on their own site: http://www.stillen.com/prodfiles/308360~inst.pdf

ChipsWithDips · 07-09-2013, 05:06 PM

Racingbrake makes some very nice lightweight 2piece rotors that fit the sport calipers, but they will cost you.

markthomas69 · 07-16-2013, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing.

The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps.

If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system:

1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though.

2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors.

3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades.

I am upgrading to the Sport brake kit (coming FedEx tomorrow) I am going to fabricate my own brake cooling kit based on what I have read in this thread.

I will post pics along the way during the install which should happen by the end of this week.

370Zsteve · 07-16-2013, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markthomas69

I am upgrading to the Sport brake kit (coming FedEx tomorrow) I am going to fabricate my own brake cooling kit based on what I have read in this thread.

I will post pics along the way during the install which should happen by the end of this week.

Did you see Modshack's brake cooling duct DIY on the Forum?

DLSTR · 07-16-2013, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing.

The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps.

If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system:

1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though.

2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors.

3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades.

Best post here on brakes for this car and the basics about our system. The only real deficiency is cooling as you mentioned!

ImportConvert · 07-17-2013, 10:02 AM

The factory Nissan rotors/pads lasted 10K miles of street-driving before the car was undriveable nearly and needed turning. Then another 7K miles, then another 3K miles. The Z1 slotted + Stoptech pads lasted about 4,000 and the dealership will not turn slotted rotors. Trashed. If your brakes lasted 67k miles, I suggest you leave them alone/replace them with what you have now.

I didn't get much pad wear, it was the rotors that warped all to piss. OEM 140 tread-wear tires lasted 17K miles, and the pads had 8mm of material left at 20K miles when they finally came off. FWIW.

chii370 · 07-17-2013, 10:52 AM

im sure im not the only one thinking this, but if you toasted your breaks with every day driving in 10k miles or less you really need to go back to school and learn how to drive a car.

Chuck33079 · 07-17-2013, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chii370

im sure im not the only one thinking this, but if you toasted your breaks with every day driving in 10k miles or less you really need to go back to school and learn how to drive a car.

He's got a one-off issue most likely unrelated to any part of his driving style.

NitroZ · 04-18-2021, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianMSmith

2009 sport touring model, 67k miles on original brakes (everything), yes I tend to drive light on the brakes 98% of the time (see below).

Normal daily driving is fine with what I have, but aggressive driving at 60-100mph with frequent hard (max) braking up on the mountain roads gives me a huge amount of vibration due to rotor warping. This may be caused by high rotor temperatures (only), or perhaps it's the higher speeds where warping becomes noticeable, not sure.

Either way, the rotors and pads need upgrading. Any recommendations for my type of driving, not exactly track driving but aggressive road driving.

Is there also a brake fluid that might improve performance, while I'm at it?

Cost is a consideration in that I don't want to spend more than I need to for my needs, no overkill (no pro race car set ups). Thanks in advance.

Akebobo premium ceramic pads, and Motul brake fluid with the master cylinder brace from Z1 will add huge improvement. Huge.

Rusty · 04-18-2021, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NitroZ

Akebobo premium ceramic pads, and Motul brake fluid with the master cylinder brace from Z1 will add huge improvement. Huge.

I got a job for you, if you're down for it.

07-08-2013, 08:16 PM	#1 (permalink)
BrianMSmith Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: secret Posts: 267 Drives: 370Z, Ducati 748S Rep Power: 16	Brake Upgrade Recommendation 2009 sport touring model, 67k miles on original brakes (everything), yes I tend to drive light on the brakes 98% of the time (see below). Normal daily driving is fine with what I have, but aggressive driving at 60-100mph with frequent hard (max) braking up on the mountain roads gives me a huge amount of vibration due to rotor warping. This may be caused by high rotor temperatures (only), or perhaps it's the higher speeds where warping becomes noticeable, not sure. Either way, the rotors and pads need upgrading. Any recommendations for my type of driving, not exactly track driving but aggressive road driving. Is there also a brake fluid that might improve performance, while I'm at it? Cost is a consideration in that I don't want to spend more than I need to for my needs, no overkill (no pro race car set ups). Thanks in advance.

07-08-2013, 08:44 PM	#2 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	its pad deposits on the rotors, very common. I would go with brake cooling ducts from stillen, first and foremost, then any rotors and a good sport pad for daily driving. I think the most benefit will come from the cooling ducts though. 370Zsteve likes this. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

07-08-2013, 08:50 PM	#3 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing. The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps. If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system: 1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though. 2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors. 3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades. fuct, 370Zsteve, DLSTR and 2 others like this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-09-2013, 01:38 PM	#5 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Stillen has the PDF of the instructions on their own site: http://www.stillen.com/prodfiles/308360~inst.pdf __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-09-2013, 05:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
ChipsWithDips Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 279 Drives: '11 Gunmetal 370Z MT Rep Power: 14	Racingbrake makes some very nice lightweight 2piece rotors that fit the sport calipers, but they will cost you. __________________ PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped \| Ebay y-pipe \| Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows \| UpRev \| Racingbrake 2pc Rotors \| 40th calipers \| Eibach sways \| SPL endlinks, diff mounts \| RJM pedal \| Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel \| M370 Manifold \| Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch \| Forgestar F14 18x10 \| Conti DWs \| Quaife diff/4.08 gears \| Nismo diff cover

07-08-2013, 10:12 PM	#4 (permalink)
BrianMSmith Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: secret Posts: 267 Drives: 370Z, Ducati 748S Rep Power: 16	Can anyone provide installation instructions for the Stilllen brake cooling kit, I'd like to see what I'm in for with this option? I found a pair of DBA two piece rotors, 5000XS series, for $288 per rotor. Seems like a good deal for a much improved rotor over OEM. Thanks for the help.

07-17-2013, 10:02 AM	#10 (permalink)
ImportConvert A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: SWMO Posts: 4,454 Drives: 2019 CX5 GT Reserve Rep Power: 7627	The factory Nissan rotors/pads lasted 10K miles of street-driving before the car was undriveable nearly and needed turning. Then another 7K miles, then another 3K miles. The Z1 slotted + Stoptech pads lasted about 4,000 and the dealership will not turn slotted rotors. Trashed. If your brakes lasted 67k miles, I suggest you leave them alone/replace them with what you have now. I didn't get much pad wear, it was the rotors that warped all to piss. OEM 140 tread-wear tires lasted 17K miles, and the pads had 8mm of material left at 20K miles when they finally came off. FWIW. Last edited by ImportConvert; 07-17-2013 at 10:08 AM.

07-17-2013, 10:52 AM	#11 (permalink)
chii370 Track Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: . Posts: 642 Drives: . Rep Power: 16	im sure im not the only one thinking this, but if you toasted your breaks with every day driving in 10k miles or less you really need to go back to school and learn how to drive a car.

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