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Didn't get the entire drop out of H&R?

hello, I installed my h&r springs a few months ago. The front dropped appropriately and I am very happy with it. however, the rear barely dropped and it looks kind

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Old 05-14-2013, 08:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Didn't get the entire drop out of H&R?

hello, I installed my h&r springs a few months ago. The front dropped appropriately and I am very happy with it. however, the rear barely dropped and it looks kind of funny. any ideas why?
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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pics?
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fonzo179 View Post
pics?
I can get some today, but compared to th other pictures that I have seen, my drop is not as good. I can fit nearly 2 entire fingers in the gap
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you measure it by any chance
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You made a common mistake that I see all the time and I am sure your front is most likely got the same issue but to a lesser extent due to the design.

What you did is when you installed the H&R's I am sure you tightened the suspension when the suspension was still unloaded in the air. I see this problem all the time when people come to do alignments at my shop after doing there own work. What you have to do is make sure all of the rubber bushing joints in the suspension are loose (upper control arms/Front shock to arm bolt/swaybar body mounts (unless you got aftermarket sways)/Rear arms then lower the car down and roll it out to settle the suspension.

In the rear this is extremely prominent as the rubber bushings will bind significantly and cause your car to sit high not to mention handle far worse then a properly installed suspension. The reason the front doesn't do it as bad is that the front upper arms are not usually touched so they only start to bind from the factory settling point and the outer front arms are ball joints so tightening them after lowering isn't required.

Usually, this is extremely hard to do without an alignment rack as access to arms such as the upper control arms are very limited. You can guess and install but generally speaking it isn't known to produce consistent results.

If you are in Northern Kentucky my shop is about 40min away and I can fix your issue and re-align (will be required when you fix the bind) the car for a fair price.

-Ron
1st likes this.

Last edited by Fishey; 05-14-2013 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishey View Post
You made a common mistake that I see all the time and I am sure your front is most likely got the same issue but to a lesser extent due to the design.

What you did is when you installed the H&R's I am sure you tightened the suspension when the suspension was still unloaded in the air. I see this problem all the time when people come to do alignments at my shop after doing there own work. What you have to do is make sure all of the rubber bushing joints in the suspension are loose (upper control arms/Front shock to arm bolt/swaybar body mounts (unless you got aftermarket sways)/Rear arms then lower the car down and roll it out to settle the suspension.

In the rear this is extremely prominent as the rubber bushings will bind significantly and cause your car to sit high not to mention handle far worse then a properly installed suspension. The reason the front doesn't do it as bad is that the front upper arms are not usually touched so they only start to bind from the factory settling point and the outer front arms are ball joints so tightening them after lowering isn't required.

Usually, this is extremely hard to do without an alignment rack as access to arms such as the upper control arms are very limited. You can guess and install but generally speaking it isn't known to produce consistent results.

If you are in Northern Kentucky my shop is about 40min away and I can fix your issue and re-align (will be required when you fix the bind) the car for a fair price.

-Ron
Rhanks man. I PMd you
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