Toe bolts with Swift springs?

JAYNO20

I am not really liking the idea of grinding out the toe adjustments to get the bolts from the SPC kit to fit. Would the drop that the Swift spring offers NEED those toe bolts? I don't want to be replacing my tires all the time, so if I need them, I guess I need them.

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2010 Solid Red NISMO #0334 - SOLD

2014 Red Hot Camaro ZL1

Wonka2581

I have no idea what you are talking about but I would like to lower my Z. Do I need to them as well?

Mandingo

If you want to get back to factory specs, then most likely yes

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some mods

SgtGoldy

Yea, your gonna wanna go with the camber correction. I have yet to lower my G but I have other cars in the past. I tried to get away with no camber correction, just front, & just rear. Now I am at the point to where I know for a fact it isn't worth it. Especially if you run expensive tires/sticky tires. They will be gone in no time. To be honest the reason I haven't dropped is the camber correction kit is like 700.00 for both front and back. That's not including the springs; so its a bit out of budget for me atm.

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Felix 808

Each situation is different with the Swifts. There are a lot of people who were able get back into stock specs without camber arms or toe bolts. This is discussed numerous times throughout the Swift review thread.

YMMV

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Semper Fi

Μολὼν λαβέ

zguynate

I am on Swift springs and did not have to use toe bolts. I am using the factory toe adjustments. I do, however, have camber arms.

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2009 370z touring w/sports package

JAYNO20

Yeah I am already doing the camber kit, I am ONLY asking about the toe bolts. Did you guys also modify (trim) the aluminum where the toe bolts go?

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2010 Solid Red NISMO #0334 - SOLD

2014 Red Hot Camaro ZL1

SgtGoldy

oh sorry, I guess I didnt read it entirely. Yea, no idea

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jpritche

I have coilovers, so I obviously had to use the toe bolts. I can say this though, I wouldn't be worried about elongating the aluminum. Its really not that big of a deal and it only took my mechanic like 10 minutes. In the long run it will be much better for your car and save you more money with geting the toe back in spec.

Baer383

The rear sub frame where the toe bolts go is steel.

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

JAYNO20

Is this easily dremeled out or what did you guys use?

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2010 Solid Red NISMO #0334 - SOLD

2014 Red Hot Camaro ZL1

Baer383

After you put template up and scribe the line what no one has told you is you only have to enlongate the hole one way not both ways meaning you only have to get the bolt to get the car to toe in enlongate the hole to make it toe out is useless , I use a carbide grinding bit to remove the metal and you only have to remove a small amount.

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

Mr&Mrs

I did not need the bolts but the toe was way out (lowered on swifts) when I got the Blue Z on an alignment rack. They were able to get back to spec with factory adjustments.

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Project Z <--Click - Check out the link too many mods to list!

jpritche

Correct. In my situation we only had to dremel out the right rear side. Furthermore, we only had to dremel it out toward the center of the car. Easy peasy.