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Decreasing Negative Camber?

Hello everyone! I've been creeping around the forums for a while, but this is my first post. I'm currently driving a 2012 Golf R but just placed my order for

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Old 11-08-2012, 09:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Decreasing Negative Camber?

Hello everyone!

I've been creeping around the forums for a while, but this is my first post. I'm currently driving a 2012 Golf R but just placed my order for a 370z yesterday! (let the countdown begin)

I've skimmed several threads on tire wear and camber discussions, and realize that the Z's stock set up has some pretty aggressive negative camber (for good reason, no doubt). My question is, if my Z will never see a track, and just used to fill my needs for a spirited daily driver, would considerations of reducing the amount of negative camber be a bad idea to up tire life, even if it sacrifices a little performance?

Thanks for any feeback!

(If I should post this somewhere else I apologize!)
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have had my car for over 46,000 miles and haven't seen any abnormal wear due to negative camber.

IMO, the reduction of the camber would just screw up the handling enough to bug me while not really helping the tire life that much.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Have about 17k on the original tires now, mostly commute with some spirited, maybe 1k worth. Stock alignment.

1st, that's a lot more tire life than I was expecting, should be able to get through the winter with them and end up with about 2 years of life.

Front are wearing perfect, nice and even, 31 PSI I think is perfect pressure.

Rear, even with the camber are still wearing on the outside. Even with the stiffer sway bars. Not quite getting that. Either too much toe or suspension is flexing.

That's my experience so far... Wouldn't mess with the alignment until you've got the suspension upgraded to where you want it first.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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In my hindsight I got my z and never touched the alignment until I had to get tires for the rear at 24k. WHAT A HUGE MISTAKE THAT WAS!!! Nissan sent the car to dealership with so much toe out that my front tires were feathered really bad, as well as the rears. I had almost half tire life in front and 1/4 in rear. I wore them down damn near to bald. I bought a little bit harder compound tire so that it would last me a little bit longer. I also noticed when I got my car alligned that the front wasn't adjustable and that there was almost a full degree of difference of camber between passenger and driver side of car. So I bought the kinetix upper control arm and got it set to -.7 with no toe in front, also -1.7 rear with almost no toe. When you get your z after having it a week say that the car is pulling and take it into the dealership for a FREE alignment check and they will be able to tell you where you car sits at as far as alignment. I ran my tires about 33-34 and it seems good so far.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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[QUOTE take it into the dealership for a FREE alignment check and they will be able to tell you where you car sits at as far as alignment. I ran my tires about 33-34 and it seems good so far.[/QUOTE]

Sounds like a good plan. I tend to naturally assume nothing is done right the first time..

Thanks for the responses everyone!
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There's an excellent thread by M. Bonnani on the effects of various suspension settings on handling in the appropriate forum.

Long story short, some negative camber (say, -1 give or take) improves grip in cornering without resulting in excessive tire wear.

Unless you are a drag racer only, I wouldn't aim for 0 (or positive) camber -- what good are tires that last a bit longer but can't hug the road as well going around a turn?

0 toe is fine.

By comparison, autoxers will often have -2+ camber F & R.

I have -1.38 F and -2.68 (thanks to adjustable rear camber arms) in the rear -- and this is for ("spirited" street driving).
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It also depends on your drive. -.7 front cam may not work for his car because he drives in a straight line everyday (being sarcastic). You have to track (depth mic once a month) to see how it wears.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I would not recommend changing the camber.
Good luck.
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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For a stock set up Z, you should just leave it alone and spend your money on something else unless you decide to lower it aggressively.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roy'sz View Post
In my hindsight I got my z and never touched the alignment until I had to get tires for the rear at 24k.
I want to point out that 24k on the RE050A's is very very good. Most folks get less than 20k out of them. I replaced them at 14k and 3-4 track days. The track wasn't too hard on them 'cause like most I was really slow at first.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sig11 View Post
I want to point out that 24k on the RE050A's is very very good. Most folks get less than 20k out of them. I replaced them at 14k and 3-4 track days. The track wasn't too hard on them 'cause like most I was really slow at first.
Thank you for the compliment, my z isnt a track car its a dd (to solve any future confusion by other members). They were nice and sticky but if im shelling out 1300 for tires I want it to last longer than that. Im still disgusted at nissan for releasing my car to the public in the condition that it was in. My fronts could have gone longer had they not been featherd to hell like they were....oh well thats life i suppose.
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Any update on this?


I have Yokohama S-drives on my car, sitting at like 13k miles, and when I had it on the lift last week I noticed how bad the camber wear is, I have 3-4/32nds on the inside and 6-7/32nds on the outside.
AND I get my alignment done every 5k miles, AND I tell them to make it as straight as possible...

I am going to install lowering springs soon, (Tein S-tech or whatever .75" drop) and I really don't want to burn through tires even quicker...



Anyone have any suggestions on what camber arms are like factory (so my local Firestone who I have a lifetime alignment doesn't bitch at me for) Or do they come with a standard, 2 degree adjustment?
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