Air cups for coilovers. Looking for anyone with experience with on your car.

Matt9500

I’m looking for anyone with experience with air cups for their coilovers (BC Racing. I am hoping for some helpful information specifically for Stancepart.com but open to any other brand’s anyone has experience with. Thanks guys

NorthStyle

A few of us have them. I've been running the StanceUSA kit with some Stanceparts.com parts for ~8 years.

Matt9500

Thank you for your response. From the information I have found is that they are pretty much trouble free. I’m getting ready to order the Stanceparts kit and have it installed. I put a Varis front lip on my car this winter and was looking for the best way to protect it.Kansas City roads are not very forgiving.

OptionZero

Buddy, you sure needed to search through this forum, because I did all the work for ya

Project: StanceParts Air Cup system

stanceparts all 4 corners. Pretty sure i'm the only one running all 4 corners, at least with SPL parts, according to them

Lessons:
- You don't REALLY need all 4 corners, fronts are usually fine

- Need machine work for the rear cups if you intend to stick with divorced setup

- If you wanna be low, get ready to trim the lower spring perch

- Stanceparts provided air tank is really strained going all 4 corners. Needs to refill every 2 activations

- Stanceparts provided compressor is loud AF; i get it's part of the game when going air anything, but it's real loud. Mine is hidden under the trunk and it's still loud. If you can, get the stanceparts cups and piece together a larger tank (or dual tank if you want) and spend extra on a newer design, super silent one, i think there are a few out there nowadays

Double check the measurements on the shaft diameter of your coilovers before sending to Stanceparts. You can't re-drill that opening, it's pretty delicate.

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OptionZero

Lemme add a few more things

My final solution was a 4 inch height, 2.5 inch diameter, 600lb/ft spring from Eibach

We were able to trim the spring perch without machine work, it was thin enough metal we could take a centimeter or so off the top and that was enough to clear everything on compression

When planning your final height, the stance cup adds MORE than an inch. Their measurements said 30 mm or so but there's no way it was that. It's more like 1.5-2 inches since I had to go down from a 6 to 4 inch spring.

keep that in mind when thinking about where you wanna end up and your rear spring length/suspension parts planning

If you don't care about being stance-low, you will have an easier time than i did

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OptionZero

I put more pix in my original thread

Here is the key part to pay attention to in the rear if you want to be low

Attached Images

Rear Spring Perch - Trim Area.jpg (119.1 KB, 12 views)

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NorthStyle

The only issues I've had:
1. The wiring on it was... let's say "terrible" from the factory (StanceUSA): sometimes I would try to go up and it wouldn't do anything, sometimes it would go up, sometimes it would go down and vice-versa when trying to go down. It took a lot of back-and-forth and sending them pictures of their own work to figure out how it was supposed to be wired.

2. Air leaks

Other than that, no issues.

OptionZero

Wierd, no wiring or leak issues on my end.

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NorthStyle

The wiring was messed up when they assembled it, as mine was a complete setup and not pieced together. I had to draw them (StanceUSA) a diagram of how they wired it, then have them tell me that it wasn't supposed to be wired that way... l

The leaks... I've moved the tank and redid the hose routing and fittings so many times that I have to chase them down each time; most of the time, it usually due to me not wanting to strip the threads so I don't tighten them down enough, and another was from when my electronic exhaust valve got stuck open.

OptionZero

If i had to do it again i would certainly just get the cups and the minimum from them, and find my own compressor and tank

The Nismo braces and such are a slight packaging constraint but I did get it the compressor toward the middle of the car, and the tank is exposed above the tank for looks

dual tank/compressor might allow even better packaging

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Matt9500

OptionZero thank you for the tips. I got the two cup kit with no tank. I have ran the power and air lines and was planning on putting my compressor next to the factory amp. You have mentioned that your compressor was in the trunk I’m going to assume underneath the trunk mats? The way I’ve got my compressor set up my compressor head will be touching the bottom of the trunk mats.Do you think the compressor will get hot enough to cause a problem? Once again, I appreciate all the information and tips that you have given me.

NorthStyle

At first, I had my tank and compressor mounted in the hatch visible for all to see... but to me, it looked terrible with everything out in the open like that, the compressor was ridiculously loud, and worst case it becomes a projectile in the event of an accident.

Next, it was mounted just behind the hatch strut bar, with the top of the tank exposed and the compressor mounted next to it in the same area. Since the V1 Nismos don't have that body brace the V2s have, I had a bit more space to work with than you. Another benefit was the compressor was much quieter

Currently, it's mounted to the rear of the car using the legs on the tank, and the compressor is mounted to the tank using Accuair mounts. Much easier to service (except if I need to take out the tank, I have to take off the bumper to access the mounting screws) and again, it was a lot quieter since there were so many layers it sat under. Everything is hidden on this one.

I saw a guy on FB mounted both his tank and compressor UNDER the hatch, above the exhausts, and am considering doing that in the future. It would be pretty well shielded from the elements since its right above where my diffuser sits.

The compressor gets hot naturally just due to how it operates but unless you have an issue where it doesn't shut off (like a bad relay or pressure switch, or a leak to where the pressure switch doesn't hit the cutoff psi), you shouldn't have any issues.

OptionZero

Here is my trunk and switch setup.

The compressor is below the tank in that gap between the spare and the front seats. The Nismo has some braces down there but there was room to bolt it down.

The tank is on a carbon panel and it doesn't move around

As Northstyle said, while the compressor inherently generates heat when operating, it doesn't stay on for very long

Attached Images

	IMG_5766.jpg (444.3 KB, 12 views)
	IMG_5767.jpg (471.9 KB, 7 views)

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Matt9500

OptionZero that’s where I have the compressor at right now in the space in front of the spare tire and behind the front seats next to the factory amp. I was thinking that with the compressor on for no more than 10 seconds heat wouldn’t be to much of a problem so that’s where it’s staying. Once again thank you NorthStyle and OptionZero for you wealth of information, it definitely has made me more comfortable in the placement of that compressor. A lot more helpful than the chats on FB.