Track Pads

geeteezee

What's the soup du jour on track pads these days? I know Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear used to be the norm, (maybe they still are) but have read that the 8's are a bit overkill and can lock the rears on occasion.
I ran EBC yellows on base brakes last time but have since upgraded to Akebonos and want a track pad. Not looking to break any records.
With the yellows, they wore quickly and I had to top up the brake fluid towards the end of the day.

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Rusty

I'm still using the 10/8 combo.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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2011 Nismo#91

Still are the norm.

Are pretty much the same thing.
https://www.g-locbrakes.com/

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GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs

danegrey

Same here, have used 10/8 combo all year, never had a rear locked up...

Note: if your a member of the SCCA, they will give you a 10% discount, never asked if I was,,, G-Loc has the same discount too

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Lots of Changes
the Z needs to be driven and driven hard for the car lives for it

Corsairprime

Guy's I am slightly more aggressive on the breaks. With Break cooling ducting in place I am using the XP12 up front and the XP10 in the rear. I have no issues with lockup. Pad life is about 5-6 weekends at the track.

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Corsairprime
2014 Nismo #462, GunMetal Grey, GT-R Start Button, AAM S-Line/R-Line intake and S-Line exhaust, Berk HFCs, Osiris Tuned at JoTech

geeteezee

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

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danegrey

plan to try that next year, thanks for the feedback

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Lots of Changes
the Z needs to be driven and driven hard for the car lives for it

Spooler

I wouldn't waste my money on it. Do the Essex parts front kit is what I would recommend as a minimum.

Rusty

Not everyone got $4 grand to spend on brakes.

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"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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Spooler

They will pay for themselves over time with less consumable cost. It's also a safety factor. It beats wadding your car up and loosing your life if you loose the brakes. Save up for them.

DarkJak

On the Akebono brakes, I used R10/R8 and then R12/R10 for a long time. Both worked great, and I just jumped up in compound due to temps.

After hearing more experiences from other Z drivers and feeling stability differences between the Z on a single step stagger vs other cars, I'm beginning to think a double stagger like R12/R8 or R16/R10 could work even better, for stability. Have people made this switch and liked it?

Other brands I've heard great things on:
Ferodo: DS1.11 and DSUNO usually, just trouble finding compounds to stagger
PFC: PFC08 for longevity, also haven't figured out what to run in the rear
CSG: their spring and endurance compounds work for front, rear. Cost a lot more but also wear much less at the slight expense of rotors, vs Gloc and Carbotech, from what I've heard.

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thekinn

For rear pads on my 350Z with rear Brembos I tried the FerodoDS1.11 and the heat made them crumble. Chunks literally broke off when I removed them. It was unfortunate, because I liked how they performed (bite/release)..

I tried PFC11 and those performed well too once I adjusted my proportioning valve a smidge more to the front. I just put the car in storage and didn't check on the condition of the pads. Hopefuly they are still..together. But based on previous experience with PFC01 (no longer made) these should hold up fine.

For reference, I use Hawk DTC-60 for fronts on a Stoptech ST-40 kit. No ducting. No ABS.

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06 Enthusiast MT - v2

danegrey

paying over time all depends on how long you plan on tracking and how often.
Myself time is clicking on how much longer I do it. I truly believe there is a switch in my head that will one day say enough is enough.

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Lots of Changes
the Z needs to be driven and driven hard for the car lives for it

gsg740

I'm running square 295/305 tires. XP20/XP10 works best for me. I tried XP12/XP10 and XP10/XP8.
XP10/XP8 is for people using less aggressive street tires or narrow fronts. XP12 does not handle heat well enough. And like DarkJak mentioned single step stagger might cause rear lock up and some stability issues during heavy brake or elevation change. Therefore double step is a bit better. XP20 is also totally fine on street.

I also agree with Spooler on getting a BBK if you are serious about tracking your car. Once you become faster and faster, you are more likely to warp your front rotors every 2-4 track days.

2011 Nismo#91

That first brake with XP10's on a cold day is pretty crap or a long highway drive with no initial bite, I wouldn't say they are fine for street. You could do it but You could steer with your legs too, but it's probably not a good idea. Also I don't think warping (every 2-4 days?!) is as much of an issues unless someone isn't doing a proper warm up lap each session with a cool down at the end.

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GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs