Alignment Question

Maciej

Currently I'm lowered on coilovers and just got my aligment. Upfront everything is stock other than coils and in the rear I have camber arms. Should I have them change anything else?. If I add toe bolts should I have them try to bring the camber to like -2.5 to get close to spec? Mostly want to maintain good tire wear.

I attached a picture of my aligment specs.

Attached Images

IMG_20200428_124753_01.jpg (543.1 KB, 43 views)

cv129

Time to let loose OptionZero

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OptionZero

Looks like they fixed your toe out issue and everything is even side to side

Rear camber is on the high side for someone that doesn't need it for wheel fitment or track performance.

What kinda arms do you have that they can't get that into the -2 range? you don't want to be adjusting camber/toe with BOTH an adjustable arm AND eccentric bolts.

SPL actually recommends the opposite - installing a lockout kit to replace the factory eccentric bolts, which are prone to slippage, and using the adjustment on the arms for changing settings.

SPL lockout kit:
https://www.splparts.com/products/ec...-370z-g37.html

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Spooler

Time to open up the wallet for some SPL parts so you can set the alignment that won't eat tires.

Maciej

We eyeballed it at that for fitment and got the toe pretty low. I have Z1 rear camber arms with their lockout kit and I assume we can get it lower. Worst case I’ll raise the car up a little but. Would like 2.2-2.5 degrees of camber give me good tire wear?

I’m sort of on a budget and that is why I am trying to avoid getting toe arms but worst case I’ll end up getting them. Should i prioritize getting rear camber or rear toe lower? What would “ideal” toe be since I’ve read that it’s 0 but some sources say like .05 is better since the joints (not 100% sure it’s joints) will flex and while in motion zero the toe.

I’m by no means tracking the car. The most I do is maybe a hard pull or I’ll take a turn fast but not even close to my traction limitations.

OptionZero

Toe affects tire wear more than camber
Your toe is about double what factory specs are (.15)

The CORRECT way to do this, again:
SPL lockout kit to eliminate the eccentric bolt

SPL camber and toe arms (or midlinks)
The traction arm, from what i recall, is basically the third “leg” of a triangle formed by your rear suspension; in practice it affects toe change under driving dynamics. The toe arm sets static toe (when the car is stopped)

If you think of your rear suspension as a triangle you can see why adjustable length arms are needed to properly align your car

DISCLAIMER:
For OEM type (divorced) coilovers, you need SPL’s midlinks
For ”true” type, you get their toe arm

EDIT:
Further research also shows that your front toe is too high as well. Factory is .05-.11 deg total toe, you are again double that. I believe that will cause premature tire wear. Front toe is adjusted by tie rod length which is adjustable from the factory.

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Maciej

Sounds good thank you so much! I’ll see what I can do and post an op update if anyone else is in a similar situation to me.

jchammond

When you stand those rears more upright (closer to the spec camber),it’s gonna turn your wheels inward (increase positive toe), so be prepared to align again.
Always have the rear alignment performed before doing the front
Break down & order the SPL brand parts, well worth it.

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OptionZero

this probably shouldn't even have to be said again, but whatevs

ur gonna be making an SPL purchase and throwing a bunch of suspension components on the car, you should def get the SPL FUCAs while you're at it

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