I pulled apart my akebono brake caliper not realizing I was separating the halves on the caliper and leaked fluid. Now I have warning lights in the dash indicating VDC
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04-06-2020, 04:24 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Brake Issues / ABS
I pulled apart my akebono brake caliper not realizing I was separating the halves on the caliper and leaked fluid. Now I have warning lights in the dash indicating VDC is off & ABS is
illuminated. I'm assuming I have air in the system but only grabs on the driver side. The brake fluid reservoir is halfway between MAX & ADD Last edited by 37ozs; 04-06-2020 at 06:41 PM. |
04-06-2020, 04:29 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Did you replace the lost fluid with fresh fluid in your reservoir? If not, this is most likely why VDC and BRAKE dash lights are on. Fill it to the max line and they should go away after a few miles of driving.
This statement has me confused though How did you accidentally 'pop' open the caliper? There are two large bolts holding the two caliper halves together - it doesn't come apart easily. Did you mean something else?
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04-06-2020, 06:02 PM | #3 (permalink) | |
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OP, sounds like you're in over your head. Take it to a mechanic and tell him on what you did. Plus your typing skills suck. Where is your periods. You need to rewrite your problem so that it's easier to understand.
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04-06-2020, 06:33 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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04-06-2020, 06:38 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Like Rusty said, there is an o-ring you may need to replace. And bleed the system if you haven't already.
And to clarify my earlier text, I mixed up my thoughts as I was typing. Was thinking of the 2 bolts that mount the caliper. There are 4 bolts holding the two caliper halves together.
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2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | Last edited by JARblue; 04-06-2020 at 06:40 PM. |
04-06-2020, 06:43 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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04-06-2020, 06:46 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Almost full can still cause dash lights
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04-06-2020, 07:00 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Ok, you have some skills. You have to remove the caliper.Put it on a bench. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the caliper halves together. There is an o-ring between the halves that you have to inspect to see if it got damaged. IF it's damaged, you have to replace it. Now here's the bad part. There is ONLY one place that has the o-ring. That is Z1, and you have to buy the caliper rebuild kit to get it. Once you get the caliper back together and installed on the car. You might be able to just bleed that caliper. Start with the inside bleeder first. Then the outside bleeder. DO NOT let the reservoir go dry. If you do. You might have to bleed all 4 brakes. I don't remember the bolt torque for the caliper bolts off the top of my head. They're not easy to find in the manual. There is a thread on it tho. Make sure the reservoir is topped off when you are done. If not. you will get dash lights.
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04-07-2020, 08:45 AM | #9 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2020, 11:27 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Honestly if i would have just looked up and read about the brakes first i wouldn't have had to post. I went against my better judgment and winged it. I guess this just serves as a reminder to always "read the instructions" first. At the end of the day I never had to remove the caliper from the car. Just torqued the bolts down to about a good 65ft.lbs, bleed all 4 corners starting RR & so on. Had some air sneak over to the LF but mostly came from RF where the incident took place. RESULTS; No dash lights, stiff pedal & even pistion deployment.
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