Front vs rear Camber

littlejuanito

Is having more negative camber up front than in the rear, better for handling?

Or vice versa?

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gomer_110

To achieve neutral handling in our cars you're going to want more negative camber in the front than the rear.

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littlejuanito

Thanks Gomer. Anyone else care to input?

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osbornsm

Front spec is -0.7 deg
Rear spec is -1.8 deg

I have changed my fronts to -1.9 deg with SPL camber arms.
Additionally, i have added another degree of Caster to the front alignment, too.

You will need the extra front camber if you do track days or aggressive turns.

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Rusty

With the SPL upper arms. My specs are;
Front camber -2.
Caster +7
Toe +1/16"
Rear camber -1.75.
Toe +1/16"

Pure track car. You numbers will be greater, depending on track, tire, etc.

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littlejuanito

Hey Rusty. I see you're just a tad front camber bias. Any reason you didn't go more negative up front aside from saving your tires?

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Rusty

-2 camber is a compromise between DD and track. Once you past that point. Tire life starts becomes short the more you go. The inside edges start to wear fast. If I didn't do trackdays. Think I would set it about -1.25 to -1.5. The rear would be about the same. But with 345's on the rear. Don't think I can do those settings without the tires sticking out. The sidewall sticks out now.

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littlejuanito

Do you think -2 front camber would over kill for weekend/spirited driving? I'm at -1.25 front and -1.4 rear but would like to make it a bit more aggressive without wearing out too excessively.

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Rusty

I've been running -2 front and -1.75 rear for the couple of years now. Depending on your driving style and tires. You could get about 12,000 to 20,000 miles out of the front and about 8,000 to 12,000 out of the rear.

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littlejuanito

Great. Thanks Mr Rusty

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AlWakRa

I have them set at -2.5 front and -2.0 rear.
Stock toe and +6 front caster.

It helps using all tire surface under high g-force turns. I found the above setting near perfect for my use (weekend drives, autox and trackdays). As gomer said, it neutralize the handling, the car comes originally biased toward understeer.

I don't use it a lot on streets so I don't worry about wear.

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Jhill

Personally I don't think anything over 1.25-1.5 (previous cars I would be able to get full tire life at 1.5 but inner would wear much sooner, now I stick to -1.0 for street and lower for track days since I have coilovers) would be useful for street unless your driving like a complete *** and drifting into the oncoming lane. I just don't think you'll be hitting the turns hard enough with enough sustained speed to roll the tire and use the full surface at -2 etc... and then you killing the inside of your tires on sustained straight freeway driving.

You have coilovers as well and it's pretty simple to lower to gain camber for events. With my stock arms I've calculated and measured after about a 1/2-5/8" drop is good for about .75 degree camber. Not sure if it's a linear increase though but if you spend a little time and get a cheap camber bubble gauge you can set ride height to gain some camber, write down the spec and then you'll have a quick easy dual setup. I did mine and the reset and checked with a true hunter alignment machine and specs were all within less than .1 of each other.