Stiff/hard brakes before start in the mornings. Please help...

alexanderb · 07-22-2016, 08:48 AM

Hi everyone! I need your help to diagnose the problem of my car. It's a 2009 touring sport. Basically, in the mornings when I try to start the car, the brake pedal is very stiff and hard to push down. It has that same feeling where if the car is turned off and you depress the brakes a few times it becomes stiff. This has only started happening around 2 days ago. I have not used the car as it could be a problem with the brakes and I don't want to lose my brakes while driving.

Is it a problem with the brake master? Can I still drive the car to the shop or will I lose my brakes while driving? Has this happened to anyone else?

Hoping for any help and feedback.

Thanks guys!

JARblue · 07-22-2016, 08:54 AM

If you drove it around for two days before considering that you might have trouble getting it to a shop, then just drive it to the shop. If they fail on the way to the shop, have a tow truck number handy since that's what you'd have to do anyway. Drive very cautiously and be ready to use the e-brake if the brakes go out.

Chuck33079 · 07-22-2016, 09:47 AM

Aren't you supposed to be worried when it's not hard in the morning?

Trips · 07-22-2016, 09:50 AM

Sounds like the brake booster issue.

Chuck33079 · 07-22-2016, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trips

Sounds like the brake booster issue.

Maybe the vacuum line to the booster is loose/cracked?

Jhill · 07-22-2016, 02:59 PM

Does it go back to normal as soon as the vehicle is started? If so you are looking at the brake booster check valve. The booster is supposed to maintain vacuum for about 3-4 pedal depresses after engine off. If it can't hold this then first place to look is the check valve in line with the vacuum hose.

To comment if possible leaking hose, this would cause a vacuum leak, poor idle and lean mixture code so that's not likely.

Also if it does go back to normal as soon as engine starts and is running then you are ok to drive, your not losing your brakes it's just loosing assist after its sat. So as long as your engine doesn't die you'll still have assist while driving. Not the safest scenario but not and OMG I need to tow it to the shop scenario either.

Chan Chee Hoe · 07-23-2016, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Maybe the vacuum line to the booster is loose/cracked?

It is the one way valve in the vacuum line,cannot hold the vacuum once the engine stopped,not a big deal,my car is like that for a few years...

alexanderb · 07-23-2016, 06:36 AM

Yes it does go back to normal after the engine starts. I guess I'll have the valve checked out.

Thanks for the feedback everyone! Reps coming your way!

Rusty · 07-23-2016, 05:40 PM

You don't have a problem. Normal. What's happening is the vacuum in the master cylinder is bleeding off. The system will only hold vacuum for a few minutes with the engine shut off. If you pump the brake a couple of times. All vacuum will be lost, until you restart the engine.

07-22-2016, 08:48 AM	#1 (permalink)
alexanderb Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Manila Posts: 171 Drives: PG 370 Tour/Sprt/Nav Rep Power: 270	Stiff/hard brakes before start in the mornings. Please help... Hi everyone! I need your help to diagnose the problem of my car. It's a 2009 touring sport. Basically, in the mornings when I try to start the car, the brake pedal is very stiff and hard to push down. It has that same feeling where if the car is turned off and you depress the brakes a few times it becomes stiff. This has only started happening around 2 days ago. I have not used the car as it could be a problem with the brakes and I don't want to lose my brakes while driving. Is it a problem with the brake master? Can I still drive the car to the shop or will I lose my brakes while driving? Has this happened to anyone else? Hoping for any help and feedback. Thanks guys!

07-22-2016, 08:54 AM	#2 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	If you drove it around for two days before considering that you might have trouble getting it to a shop, then just drive it to the shop. If they fail on the way to the shop, have a tow truck number handy since that's what you'd have to do anyway. Drive very cautiously and be ready to use the e-brake if the brakes go out. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

07-22-2016, 09:47 AM	#3 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Aren't you supposed to be worried when it's not hard in the morning? 2011 Nismo#91 and acelesson like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

07-22-2016, 09:50 AM	#4 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,730 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	Sounds like the brake booster issue. TechnicZ and Chuck33079 like this. __________________

07-23-2016, 05:40 PM	#9 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,180 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	You don't have a problem. Normal. What's happening is the vacuum in the master cylinder is bleeding off. The system will only hold vacuum for a few minutes with the engine shut off. If you pump the brake a couple of times. All vacuum will be lost, until you restart the engine. TechnicZ likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

07-22-2016, 02:59 PM	#6 (permalink)
Jhill Track Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: San jose Posts: 854 Drives: 2013 370z sport Rep Power: 3384	Does it go back to normal as soon as the vehicle is started? If so you are looking at the brake booster check valve. The booster is supposed to maintain vacuum for about 3-4 pedal depresses after engine off. If it can't hold this then first place to look is the check valve in line with the vacuum hose. To comment if possible leaking hose, this would cause a vacuum leak, poor idle and lean mixture code so that's not likely. Also if it does go back to normal as soon as engine starts and is running then you are ok to drive, your not losing your brakes it's just loosing assist after its sat. So as long as your engine doesn't die you'll still have assist while driving. Not the safest scenario but not and OMG I need to tow it to the shop scenario either.

07-23-2016, 06:36 AM	#8 (permalink)
alexanderb Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Manila Posts: 171 Drives: PG 370 Tour/Sprt/Nav Rep Power: 270	Yes it does go back to normal after the engine starts. I guess I'll have the valve checked out. Thanks for the feedback everyone! Reps coming your way!

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