Brake upgrade??

pokeyl

After reading many post about BBK's I have only one question. Is there more to be had? I currently run racebrake front rotors, stock rear rotors with carbotechs x10 front and x8 rears.

The car will stand on it's nose, I had to turn up the dampers on the front shocks.

I will be adding SS lines and brake cooling to the front. I do not track, but I do need to slow down faster than the stock set up would allow.

Last, my tires and temps RE-11 on nice warm Florida roads.

Before the carbotech pads is was hard to get into the ABS, not so much now.

If there is more to be had, how much? and at what price. 5K to stop 6 ft shorter or 100 times without any fade, all good racing but I don't need it on the road. Anyone have numbers or even observations?

Thanks

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NORAIN

You could step up to XP12 & XP10...

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Z1NONLY

All you need in order to stop sooner are more agressive brake pads.

While larger rotors give more leverage and help a little with initial stopping, the main upside to larger rotors is that they are a larger heat sink.

So while a single stop just needs good pads, stopping over and over and over (like on a track) will benefit from larger rotors.

Even for track use, pads and high temp fluid are a more cost-effective way to improve stopping and heat tolerance.

BTW, if you are in the bottom half of Florida, we have an autocross event in the Ft Myers area Feb 6th and 7th. We even offer an intro school on Saturday if you are new to the sport.

pokeyl

North West Florida. Thanks for the SCCA invite.. I use to autocross!

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cv129

What size front tires are you running? Have you measured you stopping distance (like an empty strip, then do a 60-0 and measure distance)?

ABS kicks in because your braking power exceeds the adheresion of your tires. The only solution would be wider fronts. Don't you think? If you have adjustable shocks, maybe increase rear rebound to ease the weight transfer?

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cv129

^ I see you have hypermax III's, not sure if it's rebound adjustable, doesn't hurt to try tho.

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

pokeyl

265 front 305 rear

HKS adjust both rebound and compression at the same time. I had to go harder on the front to control front end dive. I could go soft in the rear to get better weight transfer. I have G force sensors in the car so all I need to test is a clean patch of road and I can log the deceleration forces

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cv129

I thought stiffer rear rebound, not softer, would help with maximizing braking?

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

pokeyl

Yes, less rebound at the rear will allow a CG shift to the front.
More weight up front=better braking

With HKS you have to adjust rebound and compression at the same time.

Car seems balanced but I have not recorded the G's on a skid pad yet

Changes after x10/x8 pads, front was loading up to quickly
up on the front shocks +5 (25 of 32)
down on the rear shocks -3 (18 fo 32)

front bar (3 of 5)
rear sway bar (3 of 3)

I am rebuilding a set of BC ER coilovers and will have compression/rebound independent soon.

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It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!