Advice Needed On Brakes

JZNx · 01-25-2015, 12:05 AM

Dropped my car off for a brake inspection. Currently at roughly 56k and this is my first brake inspection. Tells me that rears will definitely need to replaced but front currently has about 8mm left. They say that once it hits 4mm they recommend ppl to replace there brakes. They say that replacing the brakes cost $240 but to get rid of squeeking nosie that is coming from the front brakes will cost around $200... He recommends that I replace the brake.

Out of those two options, clearly replacing the brakes will be a better choice. But anyone think that I should just keep the brakes until it hits 4mm? Although, the squeeking will be annoying... Any advice would be nice... Thanks.

sofaonasock · 01-25-2015, 03:04 AM

Is this from a dealership or independent mechanic?

dkmura · 01-25-2015, 09:45 AM

One bit of advice: this would be the perfect job to learn to do yourself. Replacing brake pads is pretty easy and you'll learn quite a bit. A good set of front and rear pads (ones that will reduce squealing) will cost about $100. The money you save would be better spent on investing in a decent jack, jackstands, torque wrench, tools, etc. which will be of great use later as well. Search out a few DIYs on it and at least consider it.

BuckeyeZ · 01-25-2015, 11:29 AM

You don't say whether the pads you have today are the original pads or aftermarket. If they are aftermarket aggressive pads they may squeal as long as you have them. If they are OEM pads, it is odd that they are making noise with 8mm left (I think new pad thickness is around 10mm). Whoever is assessing your brakes needs to explain why they want to replace pads with so much life left on them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkmura

Replacing brake pads is pretty easy and you'll learn quite a bit. A good set of front and rear pads (ones that will reduce squealing) will cost about $100.

Agree with your comments, but I think you may be low-balling him. Front pads MSRP is about $85/set and rear pads are about $78/set from the stealership.

JZNx · 01-25-2015, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sofaonasock

Is this from a dealership or independent mechanic?

This is a MOSSY NISSAN. A dealership.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkmura

One bit of advice: this would be the perfect job to learn to do yourself. Replacing brake pads is pretty easy and you'll learn quite a bit. A good set of front and rear pads (ones that will reduce squealing) will cost about $100. The money you save would be better spent on investing in a decent jack, jackstands, torque wrench, tools, etc. which will be of great use later as well. Search out a few DIYs on it and at least consider it.

You have no idea how many times I wanted to do that. I checked the prices on these pads and your right, they are around $100 at most. Its just I work Monday to Friday and I don't know why but I just don't have the time anymore. Now that I make money, I don't mind spending it on some labor (even though its a ripoff most say). Also my environment isn't the best for repairing car atm. Currently living in a condo and we are "technically" not supposed to work on our cars. I am pretty sure no one will care but at the same time I want to respect the community rules. But in future, I really want to do these things on my own.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuckeyeZ

You don't say whether the pads you have today are the original pads or aftermarket. If they are aftermarket aggressive pads they may squeal as long as you have them. If they are OEM pads, it is odd that they are making noise with 8mm left (I think new pad thickness is around 10mm). Whoever is assessing your brakes needs to explain why they want to replace pads with so much life left on them.

Agree with your comments, but I think you may be low-balling him. Front pads MSRP is about $85/set and rear pads are about $78/set from the stealership.

Sounds like I am getting ripped off

My real question is, is it okay to just leave the front alone for now?

Thanks for the advice, its really helping!

Nut_N_Much · 01-25-2015, 02:13 PM

Questions?
1. When your braking the the car feel like it grips and then loosens causing a surging feel in the peddle?

If you don't have deep grooves in the rotors or glazed spots you can just replace the pads. DIY section can tell you how. Takes 10 min a wheel if you have done it before. Pads held on by 2 pins. Really want to pay $100.00 in labor for that.

If you have groves and glazed spots on the rotor you need to take them off and have them turned. Pull the Caliper and turn the break screw to pop off the rotor on front rotors. If you need one done on front then you have to do both. Never just do one rotor. That will machine the faces of the rotors and get them back to working order.

90 ST · 01-25-2015, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JZNx

This is a MOSSY NISSAN. A dealership.

You have no idea how many times I wanted to do that. I checked the prices on these pads and your right, they are around $100 at most. Its just I work Monday to Friday and I don't know why but I just don't have the time anymore. Now that I make money, I don't mind spending it on some labor (even though its a ripoff most say). Also my environment isn't the best for repairing car atm. Currently living in a condo and we are "technically" not supposed to work on our cars. I am pretty sure no one will care but at the same time I want to respect the community rules. But in future, I really want to do these things on my own.

Can you go to a buddy's house to do it, no rule breaking then...

YzGyz · 01-25-2015, 07:31 PM

I was going to suggest going to a buddy's house. Good time to BS and hang while get a hand to help.

I say go buy the stuff (jack, jack stand, pads, mechanic hand cleaner, a big + looking thing for removing nuts, maybe anti squeak lube). You can find those smaller jack with 2 stands in a bundle deal at Sears or any part store for decent price. They go on sale every once in a while.

like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-T...368321&cj=true

-Break the nuts loose with the OEM tire iron in the truck (they fit better so you don't round anything)
A simple break down:

-Chock back tire (s) and lift up car (jack at appropriate spots)

-use the + thing to remove nuts, remove rim, (you might have to give them a good kick to break them loose if they been on for a while).

-Take off caliper, take off pads, take off rotors,

-Take rotors to auto to resurface, (like $10 each or something.. it's been a while)

-Put new pads into calipers, then put everything back together.

YzGyz

Nut_N_Much · 01-25-2015, 08:08 PM

Enjoy

Pad Removal:
There are 2 pins that go across the top of the caliper and hold the brake pads in place. Those pins are secured themselves with cotter pins.

Remove the cotter pins and with a small punch, drive the pins out of the calipers.

Once the pins are removed, pull the pads out of the top.

Use a couple of flat blade screwdrivers to push the pistons back into the calipers to make room for the new, thicker pads.

Transfer the shims from the old pads to new ones, and reinsert the pads in the calipers.

Replace the pins and cotter pins and you are done.

Nut_N_Much · 01-25-2015, 08:15 PM

Changing rotors us this: DIY: Brake rotor replacement (front)

Hotrodz · 01-25-2015, 09:32 PM

I have a brand new int the box Centric Posi Quite brakes for sport brakes you can have for than $45 plus shipping. PM me if you are interested!!!

01-25-2015, 12:05 AM	#1 (permalink)
JZNx Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: **SoCal Posts: 246 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 14	Advice Needed On Brakes Dropped my car off for a brake inspection. Currently at roughly 56k and this is my first brake inspection. Tells me that rears will definitely need to replaced but front currently has about 8mm left. They say that once it hits 4mm they recommend ppl to replace there brakes. They say that replacing the brakes cost $240 but to get rid of squeeking nosie that is coming from the front brakes will cost around $200... He recommends that I replace the brake. Out of those two options, clearly replacing the brakes will be a better choice. But anyone think that I should just keep the brakes until it hits 4mm? Although, the squeeking will be annoying... Any advice would be nice... Thanks.

01-25-2015, 03:04 AM	#2 (permalink)
sofaonasock Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 116 Drives: 09 370Z Touring, M6 Rep Power: 16	Is this from a dealership or independent mechanic? __________________ 09 370Z Sports Touring 6MT

01-25-2015, 09:45 AM	#3 (permalink)
dkmura Base Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Aurora, CO Posts: 108 Drives: SCCA T1/3 and GT3 Z Rep Power: 16	One bit of advice: this would be the perfect job to learn to do yourself. Replacing brake pads is pretty easy and you'll learn quite a bit. A good set of front and rear pads (ones that will reduce squealing) will cost about $100. The money you save would be better spent on investing in a decent jack, jackstands, torque wrench, tools, etc. which will be of great use later as well. Search out a few DIYs on it and at least consider it. SouthArk370Z and YzGyz like this.

01-25-2015, 02:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
Nut_N_Much A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Pensacola Florida Posts: 1,696 Drives: Awesome Car Rep Power: 26	Questions? 1. When your braking the the car feel like it grips and then loosens causing a surging feel in the peddle? If you don't have deep grooves in the rotors or glazed spots you can just replace the pads. DIY section can tell you how. Takes 10 min a wheel if you have done it before. Pads held on by 2 pins. Really want to pay $100.00 in labor for that. If you have groves and glazed spots on the rotor you need to take them off and have them turned. Pull the Caliper and turn the break screw to pop off the rotor on front rotors. If you need one done on front then you have to do both. Never just do one rotor. That will machine the faces of the rotors and get them back to working order. __________________ Did new cool science stuff to the car !!! http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

01-25-2015, 07:31 PM	#8 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 63	I was going to suggest going to a buddy's house. Good time to BS and hang while get a hand to help. I say go buy the stuff (jack, jack stand, pads, mechanic hand cleaner, a big + looking thing for removing nuts, maybe anti squeak lube). You can find those smaller jack with 2 stands in a bundle deal at Sears or any part store for decent price. They go on sale every once in a while. like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-T...368321&cj=true -Break the nuts loose with the OEM tire iron in the truck (they fit better so you don't round anything) A simple break down: -Chock back tire (s) and lift up car (jack at appropriate spots) -use the + thing to remove nuts, remove rim, (you might have to give them a good kick to break them loose if they been on for a while). -Take off caliper, take off pads, take off rotors, -Take rotors to auto to resurface, (like $10 each or something.. it's been a while) -Put new pads into calipers, then put everything back together. YzGyz Last edited by YzGyz; 01-25-2015 at 07:38 PM.

01-25-2015, 08:15 PM	#10 (permalink)
Nut_N_Much A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Pensacola Florida Posts: 1,696 Drives: Awesome Car Rep Power: 26	Changing rotors us this: DIY: Brake rotor replacement (front) __________________ Did new cool science stuff to the car !!! http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

01-25-2015, 09:32 PM	#11 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	I have a brand new int the box Centric Posi Quite brakes for sport brakes you can have for than $45 plus shipping. PM me if you are interested!!! __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

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