Completed Dynamat Extreme install, my thoughts.

Guard Dad

Hi, I just finished the installation of Dynamat Extreme in the doors and in the hatch area and I wanted to share my thoughts with those of you who might be wondering if it is worth the trouble.

For me it was definitely worth the effort. It is a significant, though not dramatic, improvement. The general sound level is noticeably reduced, but more importantly to me, the nature of the sound that remains is not as abrasive as it was when stock. Stock, you REALLY could hear EVERY change in the pavement and every bit of sand that hit the chassis. It is in this area that the improvement is most significant, these sounds remain but the rough edges, so to speak, have been removed. Conversation is much easier and the audio system sounds better too. The center of noise has shifted forward, I hear road noise from the front of the car that previously went unnoticed because of the din from the behind the seats. If your car is a track animal maybe you don't want to carry the additional 20 or so pounds and that's fine, but if you are into upgraded audio equipment or plan to take long trips or have a tough commute I think you will find this worth the trouble.

Installation notes:

When you remove the rubber seal around the hatch be sure you mark it to maintain the proper orientation for later reinstall.

It, has been noted by others before, but use a beach towel or soft blanket to protect the bodywork from scratches.

Make sure that belt buckles, rings, watches or buttons are not in position to scratch the paint as you work in and around the car.

Buy the installation roller, the cheap one is probably just fine. Dynamat MUST be in hard contact (seriously if you don't get rid of the skips and bubbles don't even bother with this mod) with the body to be effective, the roller makes the tiresome task of pressing the the Dynamat into EVERY up and down of the bodywork a little less of a chore.

In addition to the Dynamat, I lined the floor of the hatch area with some short pile (3/16" to 1/4") dark gray commercial carpet (Lowe's or Home Depot) that I had left over from another project. This was installed on the chicken soup principle: It couldn't hurt!

I also put 1" polyester fiber batting (used mostly for upholstery or quilting, it's sold at fabric stores, two yards @ $6 per yard is plenty, and get a can of spray adhesive to mount it) on the back sides of the side and rear plastic trim panels. Be sure to give adequate clearance to mounting clips and the hatch light. More chicken soup.

And the last item from the soup aisle: I took some of the leftover batting and stuffed it in any nooks and crannies that I could find. Be sure not to crowd heat sources like amps and don't block the extractor air vents in the corners of the inner rear fenders. Note: Don't put the batting in doors or areas where it might get wet, it will slow the drying process and that could lead to rust.

Hope this is a help to some of you.

kenchan

reading this now, i should've stuffed my wife's 1:1 scale pikachu doll in the trunk between the liners for chicken soup noise reduction.

i too agree that dynamat does significant noise reduction. noise is still there but substantially reduced.

Guard Dad

I'm glad to see that you are onboard with the "Chicken Soup" concept.

Xan

Thanks for the review!

Did you take any pictures?

__________________

Guard Dad

No I didn't take pictures.

The Dynamat installation is time consuming but straight forward and well documented in numerous threads on this site. No secrets, I followed in the footsteps of those who went before.

The carpet was something I had in the garage, carpet is actually a decent sound absorber/damper/isolator. I simply took some approximate measurements of the hatch area floor, did a rough cut of the carpet , laid it on the hatch floor and cut it to fit the floor with a utility knife. It protects the Dynamat, gives the floor a more finished look and is JUST thin enough to allow the hatch area trims to be installed without too much extra work. I also have some thick (3/4") carpet scraps and 1/2" rebond padding (to a point thick is better) that would have been cheap and effective, but the thick nature of these materials would not allow for reinstallation of the factory trim panels and hatch area floor without compromises and alterations I was not prepared to make.

The poly batting was kind of an afterthought. It was dirt cheap and easy to . It should help but I can't prove it or measure it. I used a general purpose spray adhesive to attach the material to the back of the trim panels in the hatch area. You could use an old quilt, blanket or mattress pad and get the same effect. When you pull the fender trims you'll see that the factory has already installed a few small pieces of batting, just continue the the work that they have started.

One place I do think the the batting helped was in filling voids in the areas immediately in front of the rear wheels and behind the seats. This is a transition area between the cockpit and the hatch area and, in my opinion, is in need of sound control since your ears are directly above it. Don't be afraid to pack the stuff in a bit. You know that you've done too much when the transverse styrofoam spacer block won't go back in place. Don't go nuts but it's OK to use your imagination as to where to use the stuff. It's light and cheap and helps, even if only a little bit. Remember, don't cover your amp or other hot spots with the stuff as it traps heat.

90 ST

For those that would like an easier material to lay down, take a look at Hush Mat. It is heavier per Sq inch then others, but goes on VERY easy and sticks like crazy!

TreeSemdyZee

Nice write-up. I'm in 100% agreement. I did basically the same to mine minus the carpet, etc.

Although, I followed the "Chicken Soup" step and now my car smells funny!

j/k.

Guard Dad

Be sure to use FREE RANGE chickens next time, to eliminate the odor issue.

Unclemeaty

I just finished installing 15 sheets from 3 trunk kits of Dynamat extreme. The difference is amazing. To the point where I had to turn down the gains on my sub because it was severely overpowering my un-amp'd front speakers. I was able to do the trunk all the way forward to behind the seats and then the door panels with the 15 sheets. If I ever take up the seats or carpet I'll have to get some more or if I want to do the ceiling. In all, I think for an absolute complete install the car needs 25 sheets sized 18x32. Thats for head-to-toe; firewall to rear tail, and ceiling. Road noise is very very good now especially since my tires are acting very noisy at their last 20% or less tread life.

ROC1ROB

Yeah I have a hard time with the "Tin Box" sound from the trunk area.

Guard Dad

It really does sound like a tin box. After you've removed the spare try tapping the metal floor of the hatch area with a screwdriver handle, it really rings! Try the same test after Dynamat, what a difference!

Guard Dad

Well I just got back from running errands in the Z and now I'm thinking I need to Dynamat the fire wall and seating area. The reduction of noise from the hatch area has highlighted the remaing noise from the front of the car. Anyone know of any threads for this?

90 ST

I did it in mine, check my album for pics.

Guard Dad

Thank's for the info. I'll be pulling the carpet in the foot wells soon to check it out for myself.