Wow those lug nuts are hard to remove

TreeSemdyZee

My owner's manual says 80 pounds, not 85.
Like others have said, if it took two to remove the lugs, then they were over-torqued.

NOT a good idea to take lugs off with a torque wrench. It can screw up the wrench. Trust me I did it.

Duc_Z09

+1. This is rule #1 about using a torque wrench... it's NOT a breaker bar. Rule #2 is don't store it under tension; set it to its lowest setting before putting it away. Rule #3 is the wrench exists to make sure you don't over-tighten bolts, not to make sure you tighten them enough.

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2009 370z #206 (all mods are Home Depot)
2009 Ducati 848 (full Ohlins, Termignoni, etc)
2003 Grand Cherokee (long arms, big tires, 4.56, lockers)

JARblue

The little short arm bar that comes standard in the Z makes removing the lug nuts fairly difficult even if they are torqued properly to 85 ftlbs. I usually end up standing on it to break them loose because I seem to always tear up my knuckles on the rim or the ground when I do it by hand. It's fine in a pinch (i.e. side of the road and only one tire), but I use a 36" long breaker bar at home. It was $10 at Harbor Freight on clearance (I haven't seen them since, but they have a 25" one about the same price)

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Dreadnaught

When I had my 06 G35 coupe I had to use the short arm bar several times. I found, that if you have the arm bar parallel to the ground once you have it on a lug nut, come directly down on it with your dominate foot hard which is basically stomping on it and you can break the lug nut loose. A bar that short doesn't give you any leverage obviously lol.

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2011 Nismo#91

I have to stand in the bar as well to remove my lugs. While 80-85ft/lbs maybe what they were installed at over time with oxidation etc. it will require much more than that to remove it. And never remove bolts with a torque wrench unless there is no other choice.

SouthArk370Z

A little bit of NeverSeez (or equiv) will (usually) make it easier to remove the lug nuts. Apply in a very thin layer to all the bolt threads that will be in contact with the nut. The stuff will provide some lubrication so torque to the low end of the range or a few ft-lb less.

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onzedge

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kenchan

i dont use any anti-seize. i also dont torque the lugs like some kingkong or gojira~!

sorry to hear about your flat. take it to a tire place that has touchless mounters. otherwise mount mark galore!

kenchan

bk- you need to get yourself some real tools..

Bking

Haha, this (fortunately, unfortunately?) is the second time it happened to me for the past 15+ years of driving. The first time changing the spare tire was a breeze.

kenchan

Bk dat's not the point. you're driving an enthusiast's car. get some tools ..

Bking

Haha I know I know, but winter is coming, I'll probably winterize the Z for the next 4 months. I will, however, look for some better tools in case anything happens again.

Bking

Wow guys so much hate on the good old Hankooks. If I was living somewhere warmer I would definitely get better tires than these. These tires were much better than the stock Bridgestones and for the price I think they aren't bad at all.

Also, how is the brand of the tire relevant to what happened to me? Unless there are proven facts that those Michelin, or other "superior" tires, will not pop if the metal piece left a 3 inch gash in the tire. What some of you are saying is like someone totalled your car, and I say "Get a Ferrari, they are better than our Z".

SouthArk370Z

I think his point was that this misfortune is a good excuse to get (arguably) better tires.

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Bking

Ah, then I'm sorry if I misunderstood you guys. Like I said, I would do it in a heartbeat if I was living closer to the equator. Actually, I wouldn't even consider these Hankooks but summer only lasts 3 weeks here in Vancouver (I would be riding my bike most of the time anyway) so I can't convince myself to get nice tires for this sh!tty weather. It has been raining here nonstop for the past month...

For now I have to buy a replacement Hankook. The tire was damaged beyond repair.