Sorry, you are correct. I was getting ahead of myself. Toe in the front was adjusted but camber and caster remained the same.

Not sure what type of machine was used. They threw it on a lift, put some reflectors on my rims and numbers popped up. Lol

So those are the correct numbers then? Both are positives? Is that in degrees?

Front toe is positive.
it says my steer ahead is -.01. Not familiar with that

rear toe is also positive. .12 and .16
total toe .27
says my thrust angle is -.02. Also not familiar with that

That might handle funny depending what that machine calls +/-.

I like slight toe-out in front and slight toe-in in the rear. If both yours are + then I hope you have toe-in. Toe-out in the rear isn't great.

Yup...:iagree: A touch toe out in the front turns in a little better. I was finding I got more tramming with the toe out up front. It's pretty crucial to have a touch toe in out back though. I'd almost be willing to bet, he's toed out on both. I went through this trying to get aligned at sears. They were the go to place for lowered cars in town because of the low rack they have. They kept setting me in the middle of the OEM spec numbers. Which ends up being toed out (the OEM specs are toed out to start with). The machines can be used 2 ways. With the OEM specs as the range on the monitor screen or from a true zero as the range... You want them to use true zero. The camber numbers pretty much read the same no matter how the machine is set. As I said before, the regular auto service places don't seem to get it. They are used to aligning SUV's mini vans, and pick ups. LOL.

The car seems to feel a little better after a few days, but def still not what I want. I do plan on replacing the front tires in the next few weeks. When I do that, I will install my rear camber arms and perhaps front camber arms as well. Then probably head to jacksonville to get it aligned at a pro shop

^^^There you go... Go ahead and put the front a arms on too. Unless you want to drive to J'ville again and pay for another alignment. The front's not very hard... It doesn't get outta whack as much either. The rear end gets weird easier when switching the camber arms. Did you get lock out bolts for where the camber arms connect to the chassis? You want to eliminate the eccentric bolt that's there now. it becomes redundant with an adjustable arm and can slip. It will be fine after a proper alignment. I was so frustrated when I was trying to get mine to drive right again. I was considering getting something else... She's good now.

New tires should not take 500 miles to break in. The only breaking in tires need is enough to scrub the mold release off the tire. This is a VERY thin layer of substance left over from the tire molding process. If your on dry pavement and going freeway speeds I wouldn't expect it would take more than 100miles.

well, if you're talking just removing at layer, yes... will only take a few miles tops.

but if you want the tire to break in to the car's alignment setting, then it depends how you drive. that can take a few hundred miles if the driver is pretty mild with his/her car.

my new RE11's were broken in within 5-10miles :stirthepot:

Tire Rack says 500 miles. I'll go with that, even if it is an overestimation.

Its more then just the tire in my case. The alignment has def thrown the car off as well.

Regardless, I have found a pair of front tires and will install them next week.

Need to find those lock out bolts as mentioned for my camber arms.

And heavily consider the front camber arms

yah, some tires last 40k miles.... lol for those rock tires, it might really take 500miles to break in properly with grandma driving.

Manufactures also say don't go over 4k rpm on a bike and take it easy on a new car. All are very wrong! Both need broke in hard and brake pads need set. A manufacture could never tell you these things though for liability reasons. Could you see our moms setting pads from 60-10-60-10 etc etc going WOT to almost a full 100% brake and back over and over till brake fade? People would be dying left and right and sue.

Finally installed the front tires amd it has made a world of difference. Car is neutral in cornering and no longer crabwalks when shifting. Lesson learned : do not mix and match tires on a 370z, it does not like it at all.


Full suspension mods are still coming together though. Missed out on a deal for front camber arms, so im still searching.