Changing wheels this weekend.
 

I will be changing over to my new rims this weekend.

I assume the answer is yes, but I just wanted to check that the stock jack and tire iron are sufficient to perform the job?

I will try to get a torque wrench, but are there any other tools I would need to make the job easier. Any gremlins I should watch out for other then the extra bolt that needs to be removed?

Thank you.

do you have a 17mm deep socket? you're going to need that for your aftermarket lugs probably.
and yah, the front rotor will have a small spacer that needs to be removed with a 10mm or
philips head.

and scissors jacks can be used, but make sure you chock a tire with bricks or something if
you dont have wheel chocks. :ugh:

get yourself some real tools. :D

btw, after you're done and drive 5-10miles, makes sure to go back and retorque the lugs.
chances are they backed out a little bit. i repeat a few times at 85ft/lbs

Ya I know. Since I keep my cars for at least 10 years and I stick with one wheel choice, I have only done this once 10 years ago on the Celica. Luckily Canadian Tire loans tools for free (with a deposit) so a list of things I need is imperative.

17mm deep socket - check.
Brick - check.

Thank you.

Which wheels are you switching to? Many aftermarket wheels have deep or very thin pockets for the lug nuts and the stock lug wrench will not fit or may scuff up the wheels when used. Also in my experience many aftermarket lug nuts are either 17 or 19mm heads while stock lugs are 21mm head. This is all assuming you are going from stock wheels to aftermarket of course. I would personally invest in a quality reversible torque wrench with extensions and a set of thinwall sockets, they make swapping wheels a breeze. Also don't forget jackstands, even if you are only going to have one wheel in the air at a time you should always have a stand underneath.

So don't let it just sit on the scissor jack - back it up with a jack stand?

I might actually have a couple of those laying around.

PS. Wheel pictured in the sig.

Jack stands are a must to be safe.

I am of the opinion that it's always a good idea to back up any jack with jack stands.. All it takes is an extra 5 seconds for the added peace of mind that your car won't crush your head. :eekdance:

PS Nice wheels!

wrap your deep socket with masking tape so that you dont scratch your
wheel lug bores. :D dont even bother buying those sockets with plastic sleeves.

i have them too, but they are kinda thick for certain wheels, and the sleeve
slips off after some use. masking tape ftw :D

hummm...i dont use jack stands when im just swapping wheels.

since he only has a scissors jack, he wont be able to properly raise the car
and place jackstands under the car safely anyway.

I am soaking in the knowledge.

I might have one of those hand jacks laying around, Father in law gave me his garage stuff when they moved to a condo.

Might need a puck.

Is this a serious thread or you're just bragging? Cuz I'm super jealous, I want new wheels :p

Get a real jack. The scissor jack will cause nothing but trouble

Both.

It gives me a smooth segue to post pics after I am done changing the wheels.

yah, or piece of wood if you dont have one. make sure to place it behind the pinch weld (rail) between the 2 markers there is a little hump. your wood
should be no more than 2" wide.

ok, this dont sound right... :ugh2:

Not to derail but I read a thread that says we should also swap out lugs when swapping to aftermarket wheels. Is this a requirement? I ask because I recently got new wheels as well and don't want to watch them rolling away as my car teeters.

The information was in a thread that recently got stickied.

:roflpuke2::rofl2:

I don't think my wife wouldn't like that either.

Aftermarket wheel lugs are different from stock lugs. Definitely need new ones and hubsentric rings.

WOW sorry! I'm so sleepy right now... I didn't mean lugs. I was actually wondering if you need to swap out the stock studs for extended studs.

Sorry about the confusion.

I don't think so. If you are not using spacers, I don't see why. But I am not sure.

I didn't think so either until I read that sticky. Confused me more than anything and made me a bit paranoid.

Anyway. I agree with everyone else. Get a proper jack and stands, they're not that expensive and they should last for years.

you shouldnt need longer studs if you are not using spacers.

make sure you get the acorn type (tapered) lug nuts for your aftermarket wheels.
i personally run muteki's forged steel ones on my aftermarket wheels.

the duraluminum ones can only handle like 80ft/lbs. they strip pretty easily if
you over torque.

i also dont use impact guns when im working on my expensive wheels. only hand
tools and a power driver on low torque setting.

Depending on the wheels you get you may need longer studs to properly engage the threads on the lug nuts. The mating surface of the OEM wheels (the part of the wheel between the hub and lug nut) is much thinner than that of most aftermarket wheels, thus decreasing the protrusion of most studs when you use aftermarket wheels. For me this meant that unless I put on longer studs, I would only get about 4 threads engaging in my new lug nuts (and for m12x1.25 studs you should have at least 6 threads engaging). You don't have to run longer studs, but I'd rather be safe than have my wheels rolling down the road and my car resting on the brake rotors.

Also if you're running open ended lug nuts and go to a track event, you will not pass tech unless the studs are at least flush with the top of the lug nuts.

Sorry it confused you.

Just made a quick illustration. The distance in red is much larger on most aftermarket wheels I have test fit on my Z, which required me to get longer studs to fit aftermarket wheels.

https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...18777678_n.jpg

Hmm. Good to know. I'll give it another look.

as long as you can get more than 10mm of thread, you're fine. that's the minimum of most forged lugs.

Yeah, I just am paranoid and don't like something at the 'minimum' I guess

yah, i guess the biggest concern is if you want to go back to stock wheels or when you have to use the donut. the stock lugs could bottom out inside before securing the wheel to the hub.

and if you use generic 5mm spacers to compensate the lug bottoming out, then you run the risk of the hub not
reaching the hubcentric wheel (factory) and break studs.

that said, i recommend one study the difference between hubcentric wheels and lug centric wheels.

I thought you used plasti-dip on your sockets:ohsnap1:

I addressed that in my post that is now stickied. 50mm studs can be used on the OEM wheels and OEM lug nuts without bottoming out. (OEM wheel locks do bottom out though). Also work for aftermarket wheels and lug nuts. :tup:

Is a torque wrench like this sufficient for the job? Or is it too inaccurate?

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1406819660

That will work better than nothing, but not by much.... Crappy Tire puts the half inch torque wrench on sale for $49 all the time. It's a good investment.

Reg price right now... $99
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...-0588558p.html

BUT, this one is on sale... $69 reg $139
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...l#.U9pkzX1C3cs

Thanks.

M590?? I just ordered some wheels from Jason at GYW and he set me up with new lugs. If u got them from him, u may get lugs with the wheels. :icon18: B sure to post some picks

ive used a cheepo click type tirerack use to sell. :D
it was fairly accurate vs my snap-on torque wrench that i currently use.

but if you're going to get one anyway, check out the digital ones. they dont require
one to undo the torque dial collar after completing the work. not that it's a huge deal,
but just more modern.

yah, but why the hell would i want to be swapping out studs just to put
aftermarket wheels in the first place? tell the wheel manufacturer to
make their wheels correctly. :ugh:

ive never had to do this on the literally dozens of aftermarket wheels ive
purchased in the past.

This is getting cra cra.. he's just changing wheels!