Changing wheels this weekend.

kenchan

yah, or piece of wood if you dont have one. make sure to place it behind the pinch weld (rail) between the 2 markers there is a little hump. your wood
should be no more than 2" wide.

ok, this dont sound right...

dP3NGU1N

Not to derail but I read a thread that says we should also swap out lugs when swapping to aftermarket wheels. Is this a requirement? I ask because I recently got new wheels as well and don't want to watch them rolling away as my car teeters.

The information was in a thread that recently got stickied.

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cooltoy

I don't think my wife wouldn't like that either.

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cooltoy

Aftermarket wheel lugs are different from stock lugs. Definitely need new ones and hubsentric rings.

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dP3NGU1N

WOW sorry! I'm so sleepy right now... I didn't mean lugs. I was actually wondering if you need to swap out the stock studs for extended studs.

Sorry about the confusion.

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cooltoy

I don't think so. If you are not using spacers, I don't see why. But I am not sure.

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dP3NGU1N

I didn't think so either until I read that sticky. Confused me more than anything and made me a bit paranoid.

Anyway. I agree with everyone else. Get a proper jack and stands, they're not that expensive and they should last for years.

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kenchan

you shouldnt need longer studs if you are not using spacers.

make sure you get the acorn type (tapered) lug nuts for your aftermarket wheels.
i personally run muteki's forged steel ones on my aftermarket wheels.

the duraluminum ones can only handle like 80ft/lbs. they strip pretty easily if
you over torque.

i also dont use impact guns when im working on my expensive wheels. only hand
tools and a power driver on low torque setting.

Read T

Depending on the wheels you get you may need longer studs to properly engage the threads on the lug nuts. The mating surface of the OEM wheels (the part of the wheel between the hub and lug nut) is much thinner than that of most aftermarket wheels, thus decreasing the protrusion of most studs when you use aftermarket wheels. For me this meant that unless I put on longer studs, I would only get about 4 threads engaging in my new lug nuts (and for m12x1.25 studs you should have at least 6 threads engaging). You don't have to run longer studs, but I'd rather be safe than have my wheels rolling down the road and my car resting on the brake rotors.

Also if you're running open ended lug nuts and go to a track event, you will not pass tech unless the studs are at least flush with the top of the lug nuts.

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Read T

Sorry it confused you.

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

Read T

Just made a quick illustration. The distance in red is much larger on most aftermarket wheels I have test fit on my Z, which required me to get longer studs to fit aftermarket wheels.

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SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

dP3NGU1N

Hmm. Good to know. I'll give it another look.

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kenchan

as long as you can get more than 10mm of thread, you're fine. that's the minimum of most forged lugs.

Read T

Yeah, I just am paranoid and don't like something at the 'minimum' I guess

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SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

kenchan

yah, i guess the biggest concern is if you want to go back to stock wheels or when you have to use the donut. the stock lugs could bottom out inside before securing the wheel to the hub.

and if you use generic 5mm spacers to compensate the lug bottoming out, then you run the risk of the hub not
reaching the hubcentric wheel (factory) and break studs.