Can I shave the backspace of Volk CE28Ns?
 

(Mods, I know it's the wrong section, give me a few hours please!!!)
The original question was:




And I don't know why +22 is preferred, but that's what I got... Can I shave a few mm off the back of my CE28Ns? 3-5mm would be preferred.

Do you mean the mounting surface?

id run ET38-43 if 19x9.5 at stock height on the front with 275/35/19's.

but if you do cut the disc, make sure the backspacing (spokes can clear the calipers).

Yes, can I cut that down

I'd llike to run that too Kenchan, but I have what I have... I might consider adding camber to the front. Like 2.5 degrees or so, but nothing moronic like 3+


Considering some 10" +30 fronts, which is a bit better

Maybe time to sell those Volks and get better fitting wheels if you want that size tires and staying stock suspension and cambers.

Fuck you, LOOOOL


Realistically I'd run a bit more camber up front, but how much would I have to run to clear?

I've always heard that -1 degree of camber = about 10mm at the top of the tire. What are your front camber settings now?

I have heard of a set being shaved. The limit is right about 5mm from what I'm told. Buddy of mine had a machine shop do it. Might also want to check how far the studs will stick out if you shave them

Oh lord please don't butcher the wheels. Camber is your friend

i guess my worry would be how structrually sound it is after removing metal from the disc. the lug taper area will be that much closer to the hub.. (thinner)..

at et22, even removing 5mm will only bring it to et27.... that's still 10mm away from ideal. :ugh:

id just get new wheels that fit correctly.

I can deal with that. And my camber is at whatever stock is

Considering they don't make CE28N's in 19" anymore... That's an impossibility. I'm looking at other Volks, I just don't understand why everyone dies for and thinks +22 and +12 is the best fitment. The best fitment for me is the one where you can get more tire under the wheel well.

RE30s come in 19x10 +30 and 19x11 +25

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You're looking at more than -3, exactly how much only an alignment will bro. You will learn to that herraflush 4x4 look:excited:

im running +24, and 265's. they rub ever so slightly only because im lowered a good inch and a half. 275's and +22 miiight work. try it :P

I wouldn't alter the wheels that way for two reasons:

The first is structural integrity. I saw the drum of a wheel break off at the spokes In Blytheville last year. (SCCA National Tour) The owner had issues with his brake calipers rubbing against the spokes of the wheels so he shaved the back of the spokes. I realize you are talking about a different part of the wheel, but I still wouldn't do it.

The second reason is that any inconsistency in the new surface could cause the wheel to not be perfectly "plumb". -Meaning the wheel might sit at a slight angle rather than parallel to the hub. Even if you are only off by a little, it could create a noticeable wobble.

Great answer. Didn't think of reason two.

So you want to take metal away from the structure of the single most critical piece of your car keeping you from loosing a wheel and crashing? Sounds like a great idea...


:tiphat: Do it and let us know how it works out.:wtf2:

That's what I'm looking at

Fùck you again, LOOOL

Damn...

I don't mean to sound like a complete áss, but it's funny how we all become engineers at these times.

Shaving material from that part of the wheel to increase the + offset is something that has been done safely for years on many cars. Just can't take too much off.

Let's SAY, I lower the car on swifts... Can I run the damn 275's? :)

It's fine but I think you can't do more than a few mm

It doesnt take an engineering degree to realize that any time you remove material from a structure, you weaken it to a degree.

How are you shaving these? a machine shop I assume? Cause that is the only correct way to do it. By the time you pay a machine shop to set up their machines and shave 3 mm you might as well have sold these and bought new ones..

If it were me, I personally wouldnt do it.

that's because most of the vendors are selling the 350Z wheel offsets for the 370Z which are different. ive been saying this from the beginning... :ugh:

LOOOOOOL, you know the wheels are machined at the factory right? There are tolerances, and Rays/Volk likes making a "face" then add/take size from the hub area, so there has to be an amount that is 100% ok to take off. If Rays said the grade of their aluminum used I'd ask one of the engineers at work to work it out and tell me what is safe/acceptable

Machine shop, obviously. Cost? LOL, free, got myself a machine shop at work.
And considering CE28Ns in 19" are discontinued, it's kind of a bitch to find another set. Otherwise I would another set in a heartbeat

:tiphat:

I'm gonna order wheels in sacrilege 10"+35 and 11"+35

I think that's about the best fitment if I want stagger, lol. Or do 10.5 in the rear, which leaves me a bit of stagger to fit a tad bigger tires