Originally Posted by kenchan should have my neo's by end of the week. just got my locks on! no pic, but heres the 4 i took off to put locks
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12-17-2013, 12:40 AM | #62 (permalink) |
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I had no intention of replacing my lug nuts...but since I just lost the key to the mcgard locks I might as well spend the money on the muteki!
The SR48 won't stick out too funky on the stock rays would they? |
12-17-2013, 09:42 AM | #65 (permalink) |
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Please re-read initial post of this thread.
...Then come back and edit your post.
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12-17-2013, 09:44 AM | #66 (permalink) |
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Eh they're track wheels, I don't care about scratches, they come off a lot, and there's no real harm using an impact to remove (just not to install!). Except for the part about the weak thin-walled adapters. They don't always break, so I've learned to just stock up on them (don't throw away old ones when I get new ones) since they're all the same pattern anyways.
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12-17-2013, 11:30 AM | #69 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
scratches on lug bores is more of a personal issue i have with wheels. i hate scuffed up wheels. thus i never take my wheels to the tire shop while still on the car (unless it's at tirerack... they use hand jacks and hand tools and low power drivers). |
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12-18-2013, 11:05 AM | #71 (permalink) |
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So where are we at in regards to Aluminium nuts? These are 7075 T6 aluminum, which is very strong from what I understand (I'm not a metallurgist though). If torqued properly = ok? Add anti-seize to be safe = good to go?
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12-18-2013, 02:10 PM | #73 (permalink) |
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mr.gale- im sure they do fine as long as you use the entire thread allowed and 80lbs/ft.
minimum thread needed is 10mm for steel lugs, so perhaps you might need 13-14mm just to be on the safe side. i too have no scientific data on the strengths. however i do know they strip a lot easier than steel lugs. |
12-18-2013, 03:03 PM | #74 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Under no circumstance should you use anti-seeze on your lugs or studs though |
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