wheels and tire all 4 same size for track????

yoyoPR

I'm planning on buying Enkei NT03-M in this • Size: 18x9.5, 27mm Offset all around for track, and 275/35/18 all four. and my ? is! this will fit my 370z nismo?, and i have 15mm spacer all around. i am lowering in Swift Spec R Springs. i am very confused in the offset size for clear my front break,please feel free to comment all yours espertis. thanks

i am going with all 4 in the same size for rotate the wheels.

FortuneLSX-TT

If you're going for new rims, why not go at least 10" square? The 9.5" even with a spacer on the rear might be sunk in a tad.

FWIW I'm going to be going with a set of four Nismo rears on mine. Also on Swifts, but with adj camber arms, etc. At -2.2 degrees.

Test fit of rear on front:

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GTM TT, OS Giken GT clutch, Greddy Ti-C, Z1 test pipes, Hawk HP+ pads, steel braided brake lines, ZSpeed CSC, 34r oil cooler, CSF radiator, HKS EVC 6 boost controller, Whiteline sways, Swift Springs, Kinetix adj camber package, Osiris UPrev tune

synolimit

Because now you have to worry about front fitment and just adding unnecessary weight for the track. His wheel also doesn't come in a 10" that will fit.

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13 370z-

FortuneLSX-TT

Yes, and that is where the AT LEAST portion comes into play.

He could go up to their 10.5" which does fit. The spacer on the front would have to be dropped though. IIRC there was already a 370Z running those rims in 10.5's square for a track setup, I think he had aftermarket brakes though. I'm just not sure if they'd clear the front brakes. FWIW the rear Nismo rims 10.5" have an offset of +23 and they cleared the front brakes for me.

The 10.5's would be very flush on the rear with the right spacer. The 10.5's would probably stick out on the front a tad without some negative camber.

Just my opinion of course, but I'd rather have the extra meat if possible. That's also probably because my 305's on the rear still slip too much. It's worth the few extra pounds to me. He can always upgrade brakes, and add more power, etc to compensate. vs. selling his rims and tires and then buying another set in 10.5 later.

Either way, rotating tires FTW.

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GTM TT, OS Giken GT clutch, Greddy Ti-C, Z1 test pipes, Hawk HP+ pads, steel braided brake lines, ZSpeed CSC, 34r oil cooler, CSF radiator, HKS EVC 6 boost controller, Whiteline sways, Swift Springs, Kinetix adj camber package, Osiris UPrev tune

synolimit

So he wants a track setup (lighter the better), a 275 max tire, and you want him at "at least" 10" (which makes no sense at all with that small tire and unnecessary weight)? Great advice.

I understand it'll fit but its totally not necessary and will hinder performance. I understand a spacer can hinder performance too since you could just find a wheel and offset to work without one, but I'd take the spacer at the hub over a 10.5" wheel since all the added weight from a 9.5" to a 10.5" wheel will move the weight out further from the hub which is bad.

On a track car you really don't want to be near flush. You have no idea what certain turns will do with your suspension choices and rubbing and killing a tire is not a good thing. If he wants those wheels I say go for it. They should fit perfect with no spacer at all keeping the weight down. If he wants to track plus go for the "look", then he might end up buying a big rear spacer and a small front spacer.

As for more meat I'm sure he'll do fine with 275's square or even 285's which is the max for a 9.5" wheel. Why you're slipping and you think you need more meat, I'm sure tires could be improved maybe or a better alignment or just ease up on throttle exit.

And yes, rotate FTW.

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13 370z-

FortuneLSX-TT

Sorry to disagree with you here but lighter does NOT always mean better. If it was simply a matter of lighter is always better, why not run an even skinnier rim? It's simple, because at a certain point there is a trade off. Going too skinny and he loses out on traction. Also considering the weight difference is 1.1lbs per rim plus the added weight of the tire, he's still already shaving a lot of weight from the rims/tires compared to the 19's.

The OP hasn't even mentioned what kind of "tracking" he plans to do. Which would have a big impact on what would be ideal or even allowed. To my knowledge nothing has been stated in this post that 275 was the MAX he was looking for. Only that he was PLANNING on going for that. Going to the 9.5" he does impose the 285 is the MAX the rim can handle though. He also hasn't stated what his goals or future plans for the car are. If he plans on adding more power, the 275 on the rear could easily become a weak link. I brought it up as a "consider your future plans" and upgrade route.

Also considering that his car came stock with 285's on the rear, I see going down to a 275 as a downgrade which is IMHO is a pretty bad way to balance suspension. Why downgrade a portion of your setup to get to neutral or to rotate tires. You should upgrade the part that is lacking, not downgrade the part that has more.

Although, I do not know why I am bothering since reading comprehension is not your strong suit. PharmDZ has stated he is on 10.5 and you seem to have missed that part as well. Others have ran 10.5 square setups and done very very well on the one's I've seen. But then again, you're the ONLY one who knows what you're talking about and anyone who does anything different is an idiot right?

It's racing and cars, there's more than one way to do it. I never suggested my way was the only way, it's merely a hey there are 10.5's that you can go with as well, they fit and others have successfully tracked them.

And yes, as BGTV8 was able to deduce by READING my signature line, I am TT so my needs are drastically different than NA. Which I already stated my needs are different. I'm on Potenza RE-11s, have a custom alignment, Swifts, Nismo struts, dampers etc, Whiteline sways, and adj camber arms, toe bolts, etc. Regardless, my fronts at 285 are my weak link on AutoX. I don't do bad on AutoX, just they are the limiting factor preventing me from going in as fast as I want. So yes, I would like more tire in the front and plan on getting it shortly.

Either way, I took it as the OP was asking for options and OPINIONS. I gave mine and you gave yours. The OP doesn't have to listen to either of us if he doesn't want to.

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GTM TT, OS Giken GT clutch, Greddy Ti-C, Z1 test pipes, Hawk HP+ pads, steel braided brake lines, ZSpeed CSC, 34r oil cooler, CSF radiator, HKS EVC 6 boost controller, Whiteline sways, Swift Springs, Kinetix adj camber package, Osiris UPrev tune

Mike

that will work. one of my setups is 9.5 +46. I run a 20mm spacer in the rear and none on front and they fit just fine.

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synolimit

Probably not a bad setup but running a +27 with a 15mm spacer in the front will be horrible. Wheel will stick out way to far!! I have the rpf1 in a +45 with a 20mm spacer and I stick out maybe 1/8". You're talking about another 13mm further plus a heavy spacer. Although that is with my OEM low camber. -2.5 to -3 will bring it in. But you at +12 overall will not be able to tuck it back in. Lowered on swifts and you hitting bumps I can bet you'll hit the fender with the tire. In the front I'd stay +27 or maybe at most a 5mm spacer for a +22 over all.

Also with a 9.5" wheel and a +12 overall in the back its still going to be pretty tucked in. A 20mm spacer would be nice but that's your call buying a heavier spacer.

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13 370z-

yoyoPR

thanks for the reply to all!!! the problem is my front offset number Right?? more number offset is more room for the brakes? i will go with front 27 offset and no spacers and the rear with 15mm spacer or 20!! now is more reasonable??? i have much problem with the offset in 18" to accommodate the brakes..

synolimit

No, less number means more room for brakes. Less number means the mounting surface of the wheel to the hub is closer to the exact center of the wheel if looking at it from top to bottom. Less number also means the wheel will weigh more because the spokes are longer since they have to have more metal to reach the mounting surface further in to the wheel. A rpf1 +45 or +38 won't fit because it hits the caliper. But going lower extends the spokes out further and gets the inside of the wheel off the caliper.

I'd go with whatever makes you happy. However what I'd do and what I did when fitting wheels was buy a few spacers front and rear and see what fit best and what I liked best. If my rpf1 +45 fits with a 20mm spacer (so +25 overall), I'm sure the +27 will fit without issue and will look very nice without having to worry about the fender being lowered on swifts. However still buying a 5mm spacer wouldn't hurt and you can return what you don't use as long as you don't bolt it down and scratch the finish. Just pop the spacer on the stud and hold the wheel against it and see if it hits the caliper.

We all have that problem with enkie and our brakes!! But with spacer help we'll find a way!

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13 370z-

PharmDZ

I'm running Enkei PF01s 18x10.5 +28 front +15 rear with Toyo R888 275/40r18's square. I was really looking to do a true square setup (offset and everything, maybe using a spacer in the rear) but then decided to just ditch the spacer altogether. Absolutely loved this setup at the track, although I've only done one track day on it so far.

synolimit

Pic of the front? That's 10mm further out than mine now and I was thinking rpf1 +15 all around in a 9.5. This would be identical to your front on the outside but 26mm more room on the inside. Please include suspension and camber if you could.

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13 370z-

PharmDZ

Here is a pic when I had the 10mm spacer up front. It's not a huge difference with it off to be honest. I have Eibach springs and camber is something like -2.5 front -1.6 rear. Those are an approx from what I remember.

synolimit

So that is 9.5" front and rear with a +5 front and +15 rear?

See I can tell a difference. Even with -2.5 front camber you look way to far out on the front. It also looks like you have zero camber. Rear is a little tucked in but that's good. No worries about rubbing in high G corners. I bet it looks and handles good with that spacer removed.

PS, looking again, I'm surprised the rear looks that good. You're wheel is further in by 13mm than me but they look pretty damn close. Although you're lowered so maybe that's why.

Im planning on rpf1 9.5" +15 all around and was afraid to have to run a 10-15mm spacer in the rear to get back to where I'm at now, but looking at yours I probably don't have to.

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13 370z-

PharmDZ

Remember that's also with the 10mm spacer up front which is now off the car. I still have yet to try it without the spacer. I test fit it once and it seemed like it fit over the brakes without clearance issues but we will see.

It's 10.5" front/rear with +28 front (with the spacer) +15 rear I believe.