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Originally Posted by yoyoPR I'm planning on buying Enkei NT03-M in this • Size: 18x9.5, 27mm Offset all around for track, and 275/35/18 all four. and my ? is! this
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#1 (permalink) | |
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FWIW I'm going to be going with a set of four Nismo rears on mine. Also on Swifts, but with adj camber arms, etc. At -2.2 degrees. Test fit of rear on front: ![]()
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#2 (permalink) |
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Because now you have to worry about front fitment and just adding unnecessary weight for the track. His wheel also doesn't come in a 10" that will fit.
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13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 11-07-2013 at 05:49 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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He could go up to their 10.5" which does fit. The spacer on the front would have to be dropped though. IIRC there was already a 370Z running those rims in 10.5's square for a track setup, I think he had aftermarket brakes though. I'm just not sure if they'd clear the front brakes. FWIW the rear Nismo rims 10.5" have an offset of +23 and they cleared the front brakes for me. The 10.5's would be very flush on the rear with the right spacer. The 10.5's would probably stick out on the front a tad without some negative camber. Just my opinion of course, but I'd rather have the extra meat if possible. That's also probably because my 305's on the rear still slip too much. It's worth the few extra pounds to me. He can always upgrade brakes, and add more power, etc to compensate. vs. selling his rims and tires and then buying another set in 10.5 later. Either way, rotating tires FTW.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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![]() I understand it'll fit but its totally not necessary and will hinder performance. I understand a spacer can hinder performance too since you could just find a wheel and offset to work without one, but I'd take the spacer at the hub over a 10.5" wheel since all the added weight from a 9.5" to a 10.5" wheel will move the weight out further from the hub which is bad. On a track car you really don't want to be near flush. You have no idea what certain turns will do with your suspension choices and rubbing and killing a tire is not a good thing. If he wants those wheels I say go for it. They should fit perfect with no spacer at all keeping the weight down. If he wants to track plus go for the "look", then he might end up buying a big rear spacer and a small front spacer. As for more meat I'm sure he'll do fine with 275's square or even 285's which is the max for a 9.5" wheel. Why you're slipping and you think you need more meat, I'm sure tires could be improved maybe or a better alignment or just ease up on throttle exit. And yes, rotate FTW.
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13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 11-08-2013 at 02:14 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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The OP hasn't even mentioned what kind of "tracking" he plans to do. Which would have a big impact on what would be ideal or even allowed. To my knowledge nothing has been stated in this post that 275 was the MAX he was looking for. Only that he was PLANNING on going for that. Going to the 9.5" he does impose the 285 is the MAX the rim can handle though. He also hasn't stated what his goals or future plans for the car are. If he plans on adding more power, the 275 on the rear could easily become a weak link. I brought it up as a "consider your future plans" and upgrade route. Also considering that his car came stock with 285's on the rear, I see going down to a 275 as a downgrade which is IMHO is a pretty bad way to balance suspension. Why downgrade a portion of your setup to get to neutral or to rotate tires. You should upgrade the part that is lacking, not downgrade the part that has more. Although, I do not know why I am bothering since reading comprehension is not your strong suit. PharmDZ has stated he is on 10.5 and you seem to have missed that part as well. Others have ran 10.5 square setups and done very very well on the one's I've seen. But then again, you're the ONLY one who knows what you're talking about and anyone who does anything different is an idiot right? It's racing and cars, there's more than one way to do it. I never suggested my way was the only way, it's merely a hey there are 10.5's that you can go with as well, they fit and others have successfully tracked them. And yes, as BGTV8 was able to deduce by READING my signature line, I am TT so my needs are drastically different than NA. Which I already stated my needs are different. I'm on Potenza RE-11s, have a custom alignment, Swifts, Nismo struts, dampers etc, Whiteline sways, and adj camber arms, toe bolts, etc. Regardless, my fronts at 285 are my weak link on AutoX. I don't do bad on AutoX, just they are the limiting factor preventing me from going in as fast as I want. So yes, I would like more tire in the front and plan on getting it shortly. Either way, I took it as the OP was asking for options and OPINIONS. I gave mine and you gave yours. The OP doesn't have to listen to either of us if he doesn't want to.
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#6 (permalink) | ||||||
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Agree.
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#7 (permalink) | ||||||
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This ignores several things. Square is not necessarily the IDEAL setup for every track. Due to weight differences, and different tracks, the tires may heat up differently and adding width can help offset this. Different drivers and different courses also require slightly different setups. Some drivers prefer a bit of understeer, some want neutral, and some want slight oversteer. So yes, reducing traction even by 10mm just to get square still reduced overall traction on the vehicle. If you wanted to change the balance to get more neutral, you can get there by adding more traction to the front instead of removing traction from the rear. Quote:
And as much as you argue that 10mm doesn't matter... do you think 1lb is going to be that huge of a difference? Your same argument can be used against you. Have you gone and tested every wheel/tire combination back to back and are you a good enough race car driver that you can without a doubt say that any change was due simply to the change in tires? I didn't think so. Quote:
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"I don't X, but that won't stop me from arguing Y." If you READ, something that you clearly suck at. I mentioned Auto-X, which pretty much is get as much tire as you can. But I'd love for you to show up with your cheap plasti-dipped rims and $100 dollar exhaust and "go faster" than me on an AutoX. Here's another tid-bit for you. Simply adding wider rims/tires may NOT make you faster if you do not upgrade the rest of the suspension and get an alignment to take advantage of the extra traction. As I've been trying to tell you over and OVER, there are a LOT more factors than simply saying a 9.5 is lighter than a 10.5 so it will ALWAYS be faster and staggered is bad. Once again, great job on failing at reading comprehension. Maybe if you paid more attention at school you'd be able to afford to powder coat a whole set of rims or buy a real exhaust.
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GTM TT, OS Giken GT clutch, Greddy Ti-C, Z1 test pipes, Hawk HP+ pads, steel braided brake lines, ZSpeed CSC, 34r oil cooler, CSF radiator, HKS EVC 6 boost controller, Whiteline sways, Swift Springs, Kinetix adj camber package, Osiris UPrev tune |
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