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Originally Posted by Arrvaxx I have springs, spacers, and a camber kit coming on Thursday. Since I have never put a car up on jacks I wanted to do it
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#16 (permalink) | |
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You need to torque everything back to spec that you take off, not just wheels. You definitely don't want to mess up doing suspension and spacers. Are you prepared? |
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#17 (permalink) |
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As prepared as I can be I think thanks to the370z.com! Been watching videos and such. I've done exhaust and brakes before so am comfortable...enough.
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#18 (permalink) | |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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![]() Last edited by Japanjay; 08-06-2013 at 10:38 PM. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Tried that and even resorted to sitting on my arse on the side of the hwy kicking it, ended up having a friend drive me to a close hardware store for a very large rubber mallet. Worked great. And now it stays behind the driver seat.
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#23 (permalink) |
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Maybe if I ever get around to putting coilovers and a cup system, I can plumb in an airline quick release connection and tote around a impact and all the hosing too. I must be behind the curve or something..... Would look great with all the hose sitting in my trunk, but better to have all my tools in case I get a flat huh? Oh here's a great idea since everyone totes all their tools around, plumb a quick disconnect off a t-connector at each corner to save on the footage of hose.... Its all coming together now! But then again I believe the OP was talking about using this same tool to remove his wheels, so I gave him an easy fix if he uses it again.
Last edited by Japanjay; 08-06-2013 at 10:47 PM. |
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#24 (permalink) | |
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#25 (permalink) | |
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when you put the new springs on and compress them, you'll have to secure the top here (i used an adjustable wrench) and use a crescent wrench to tighten the nut down (may need to do this when you disassemble as well) ![]() the other tricky part is making sure the rubber mount aligns perfectly. it moves during reassembly too. ![]() good luck |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Read up on how to use the torque wrench properly. That is a dangerous tool if you don’t know how to operate it. You will snap the wheel stud like a pretzel stick if not careful.
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#27 (permalink) | |
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my suggestion is use some anti-seize on the lip around the hub and back of wheel disc. then you wont have to carry a silly mallet. |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Love your color combo! And good call on the tape, i have also found some slim design with extended sockets that work well as the socket wall is thin and extended out enough for a breaker bar to clear the wheel.
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#29 (permalink) |
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I think the issue is actually from a little of the powdercoating being in the hubcentric area of the wheel. When the wheels heat up it remelts the powder and kinda glues itself to the hub. I need to lightly sand it out and it probably wont do that, just haven't gotten around to it. I do use the anti-seize on every nut and bolt I have ever taken off the car though, that way next time I have to remove them they are not such a major PITA to get off. Lugs get the same treatment. I don't care to carry the mallet either, just said meh, it doesn't move at all and cant been seen, so I haven't had the urgency to get on this little project.
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