wheels are wobbly after installing spacers

jeezzuss · 08-02-2013, 07:29 PM

so the other day i installed spacers on my car. i put 20s in the front and 15s plus 8mm in the back. i bought my spacers used and it doesnt have the lip on the spacers that the ichibas and other spacers have. when i installed it with my friend i noticed the rotors have a small screw that sticks out but it came off so i took it off. after installing everything and double checking things. i went for a drive and the car started wobblying. can anyone help me out here? idk what to do. would adding the 8mm spacer in the back with the 15mm bolt on have a problem?

rAiN · 08-02-2013, 07:46 PM

are the spacers 'hub centrics?'?

jeezzuss · 08-02-2013, 08:04 PM

nope...

Mike · 08-02-2013, 08:49 PM

are the 20mm spacers the bolt on type with their own studs? If so, the stock studs are about 21 or 22mm and protruding past the spacer, keeping you from getting a good mating surface.

DEpointfive0 · 08-02-2013, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rAiN

are the spacers 'hub centrics?'?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeezzuss

nope...

That's your problem right there

gurneyeagle · 08-02-2013, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeezzuss

so the other day i installed spacers on my car. i put 20s in the front and 15s plus 8mm in the back. i bought my spacers used and it doesnt have the lip on the spacers that the ichibas and other spacers have. when i installed it with my friend i noticed the rotors have a small screw that sticks out but it came off so i took it off. after installing everything and double checking things. i went for a drive and the car started wobblying. can anyone help me out here? idk what to do. would adding the 8mm spacer in the back with the 15mm bolt on have a problem?

Take the used parts off your car and save the money to get a set of H&S DRS spacers.

H&R Trak+ DRS Wheel Spacers | STILLEN

Anything else is dangerous crap. Seriously.

Baer383 · 08-02-2013, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeezzuss

so the other day i installed spacers on my car. i put 20s in the front and 15s plus 8mm in the back. i bought my spacers used and it doesnt have the lip on the spacers that the ichibas and other spacers have. when i installed it with my friend i noticed the rotors have a small screw that sticks out but it came off so i took it off. after installing everything and double checking things. i went for a drive and the car started wobblying. can anyone help me out here? idk what to do. would adding the 8mm spacer in the back with the 15mm bolt on have a problem?

You answered your own question.

kenchan · 08-02-2013, 11:46 PM

yah, in summary of all the posts...you did it wrong.

first, bolt on type 20mm might require some dremeling on the sport wheel to achieve proper clearance. some cars are fine without doing this step, but as mike mentioned most will not allow the factory wheel to sit flush.

the factory wheels are hubcentric by design unlike lug centric we find on most aftermarket wheels. it relies on the center lip for proper alignment to the hub. without it, the wheel is unstable and possibly break the studs.

8mm on top of 15mm is dangerous. your wheels are already unstable without the center lip. in addition, 8mm will only get you like 4revs on the lug.

w0rM · 08-02-2013, 11:54 PM

For God's sake take the cheap spacers off and put ONE hub centric set on that's the size you need. You're going get yourself killed because you didn't spend the extra $50 on decent spacers.

jeezzuss · 08-03-2013, 03:18 PM

thanks for all the input. im new to all this and i bought some spacers for really cheap so i asssumed it would all work. so would i have to buy spacers that require replacing the studs for a snug fit?

DEpointfive0 · 08-03-2013, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeezzuss

thanks for all the input. im new to all this and i bought some spacers for really cheap so i asssumed it would all work. so would i have to buy spacers that require replacing the studs for a snug fit?

You need HUBCENTRIC... That's it

Huck · 08-03-2013, 04:46 PM

here's all the spacers you could need, take your pick...

Spacers

kenchan · 08-03-2013, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

You need HUBCENTRIC... That's it

Yep get the right thickness and ones that have the hubcentric lip in the center. Bolt on types work fine. Just know that you might need to dremel the front wheel like 1.5mm where the stock studs hit it if you run 20mm up front. Rears you can run 15mm and still be okay with clearance with the stock studs.

kenchan · 08-03-2013, 08:44 PM

i use loctite blue on the nuts that bolt up the spacers to the hub. 80ft/lbs. After im done putting the spacers and wheels on the car, i let the loctite dry overnight. Use 80 - 85ft/lbs on your wheel lugs and retorque after 5miles. Do that a few times to ensure the lugs are seated.

jeezzuss · 08-03-2013, 09:35 PM

anyone in orange county care to help me out after i get everything? lol

08-02-2013, 07:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
jeezzuss Base Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Socal Posts: 52 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z M6 Rep Power: 13	wheels are wobbly after installing spacers so the other day i installed spacers on my car. i put 20s in the front and 15s plus 8mm in the back. i bought my spacers used and it doesnt have the lip on the spacers that the ichibas and other spacers have. when i installed it with my friend i noticed the rotors have a small screw that sticks out but it came off so i took it off. after installing everything and double checking things. i went for a drive and the car started wobblying. can anyone help me out here? idk what to do. would adding the 8mm spacer in the back with the 15mm bolt on have a problem?

08-02-2013, 07:46 PM	#2 (permalink)
rAiN Track Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: va Posts: 721 Drives: 2012 370z mt Rep Power: 17	are the spacers 'hub centrics?'? gurneyeagle likes this.

08-02-2013, 08:49 PM	#4 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	are the 20mm spacers the bolt on type with their own studs? If so, the stock studs are about 21 or 22mm and protruding past the spacer, keeping you from getting a good mating surface. kenchan likes this. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

08-02-2013, 11:54 PM	#9 (permalink)
w0rM A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,198 Drives: 2015 Corvette Z06 Rep Power: 36	For God's sake take the cheap spacers off and put ONE hub centric set on that's the size you need. You're going get yourself killed because you didn't spend the extra $50 on decent spacers. gurneyeagle likes this. __________________ \| SOLD September 14th, 2013 \| My Build Journal

08-03-2013, 04:46 PM	#12 (permalink)
Huck A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Cocoa, Florida Age: 42 Posts: 5,075 Drives: Pantydropper machine Rep Power: 33	here's all the spacers you could need, take your pick... Spacers DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ VLEDS \| Evo-R \| Moddiction \| CF Hood Struts \| F.I. CF CBE & LTH \| Stillen CAI \| NST Pulleys \| UpRev \| Z1 \| M7 \| Status \| Forgestar \| PSS \| Whiteline \| SPL \| SPC \| Kenwood \| Zenclosure \| Kicker \| Alpine Type R

08-02-2013, 08:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
jeezzuss Base Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Socal Posts: 52 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z M6 Rep Power: 13	nope...

08-02-2013, 11:46 PM	#8 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	yah, in summary of all the posts...you did it wrong. first, bolt on type 20mm might require some dremeling on the sport wheel to achieve proper clearance. some cars are fine without doing this step, but as mike mentioned most will not allow the factory wheel to sit flush. the factory wheels are hubcentric by design unlike lug centric we find on most aftermarket wheels. it relies on the center lip for proper alignment to the hub. without it, the wheel is unstable and possibly break the studs. 8mm on top of 15mm is dangerous. your wheels are already unstable without the center lip. in addition, 8mm will only get you like 4revs on the lug.

08-03-2013, 03:18 PM	#10 (permalink)
jeezzuss Base Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Socal Posts: 52 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z M6 Rep Power: 13	thanks for all the input. im new to all this and i bought some spacers for really cheap so i asssumed it would all work. so would i have to buy spacers that require replacing the studs for a snug fit?

08-03-2013, 08:44 PM	#14 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i use loctite blue on the nuts that bolt up the spacers to the hub. 80ft/lbs. After im done putting the spacers and wheels on the car, i let the loctite dry overnight. Use 80 - 85ft/lbs on your wheel lugs and retorque after 5miles. Do that a few times to ensure the lugs are seated.

08-03-2013, 09:35 PM	#15 (permalink)
jeezzuss Base Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Socal Posts: 52 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z M6 Rep Power: 13	anyone in orange county care to help me out after i get everything? lol

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