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Spacers
I had front spacers installed today by the dealer. In order to install them, the calipers need to be removed in order to install the new studs. The dealer charged me over $300. Then I was told that the spacers needed to be removed in order to past the annual state inspection. Did I get overcharged by the dealer and is it worth it?
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Whats their labor rate?
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Why removed to pass inspection? |
I can't tell from the bill. I'll have to call and find out. Is it true spacers are for off road use only?
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The dealer said that the spacers will not pass inspection in PA. I know I can probably take it somewhere else and hope they don't notice the spacers!
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Spacers not passing inspections is definitely strange.
As far as I know, the wheel cannot extend pass the fender. As long as you don't do this, you should be fine. |
So it took the dealership over 2 hours to install those...DAMN!
They only have the version where you have to place extended studs in??...I figure there are spacers out there you that have studextension already on them...just like every other spacer out there. *Shrugs* According to this post below the bolt patterns are the same as the 350z...you and every other 370z owner can get spacers just like the pic below up to 30mm if thats the case :/...Only takes about 10 minutes a tire to install if you have a torque wrench. I suppose the only question is, will they fit the hub and if so are there hubcentric rings to fit in :dunno: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...-question.html like this http://www.hrautoparts.com/images/ichiba20mm5x114v2.jpg |
Actually, I don't think you can use those. From what I've read regarding spacers on the 370z, the only ones that will work are the ones where you need to replace the stock studs with extended studs. The spacers with the built-in studs WILL NOT work.
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I did use the Ichiba 20MM version II spacers that you use on the existing studs for the rears. But I believe I read that you need to install version I with the new studs for the front.
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http://images47.fotki.com/v1476/phot...MG_1548-vi.jpg Rear wheel: http://images44.fotki.com/v1487/phot...MG_1461-vi.jpg |
yeah, and I found out I can't use the type 2 on the rears with the Nismo wheels either, as the studs still contact the wheel when installed. I'm having difficulty banging out the new longer front studs,so I am going to try a 25 mm spacer in back instead, as that should fully cover the oem studs when installed.
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ugh spacers are FAIL!
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Hubrings http://images46.fotki.com/v1492/phot...MG_1546-vi.jpg Type 2 http://images47.fotki.com/v1476/phot...MG_1545-vi.jpg Type 1 mounted http://images49.fotki.com/v1511/phot...MG_1910-vi.jpg |
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Mod.. I saw on your DIY you went 15mm on both front and back, any reason you didn't go 20mm on the rear?? Am close to ordering these.. definitely 15mm for the front, but have seen 15 and 20 on the rear mentioned here...just looking for some additional input before dropping the wallet.
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20's on the back
i installed 15mm in front, 20mm in back. the back looks killer
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Word of Advice, if your going to run a spacer ALWAYS get a hub centric spacer. Non hub centric are known to move around and are not really safe. Hub Centric Spacer are safe, i have a couple friends that road race with hub centric spacers on and never have problems!
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I learned later on that with the non-centric spacers that with any hard-launch from a standstill I was risking snapping the studs each time. Fortunately I never had them on the car long enough to have that happen. Not soon after I switched to a Nitto 315 DR's which are about a 3/4" less wide than the Goodyear ones so I was able to eliminate the spacers all together as they cleared the IRS bolt due to being less wide. It was like night and day in terms of the backend without the non-centric spacers. I learned from that whole experience to "Just say 'NO' to non-centric spacers". |
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