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yeah, and I found out I can't use the type 2 on the rears with the Nismo wheels either, as the studs still contact the wheel when installed. I'm having
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#1 (permalink) |
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yeah, and I found out I can't use the type 2 on the rears with the Nismo wheels either, as the studs still contact the wheel when installed. I'm having difficulty banging out the new longer front studs,so I am going to try a 25 mm spacer in back instead, as that should fully cover the oem studs when installed.
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Why are they a fail? They increase the track width. They are attached by machine pressed bolts. If you go with a wheel that has higher offset to bring the tires out to the lip, you're just essentially adding an aluminum spacer to do it, just that it's attached to the wheel rather than the hub. And, they significantly improve the looks of the 370z. I showed up with Ichiba spacers in hand and Big Brand Tires charged me $120 to install both front and rears.
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Word of Advice, if your going to run a spacer ALWAYS get a hub centric spacer. Non hub centric are known to move around and are not really safe. Hub Centric Spacer are safe, i have a couple friends that road race with hub centric spacers on and never have problems!
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#5 (permalink) | |
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I learned later on that with the non-centric spacers that with any hard-launch from a standstill I was risking snapping the studs each time. Fortunately I never had them on the car long enough to have that happen. Not soon after I switched to a Nitto 315 DR's which are about a 3/4" less wide than the Goodyear ones so I was able to eliminate the spacers all together as they cleared the IRS bolt due to being less wide. It was like night and day in terms of the backend without the non-centric spacers. I learned from that whole experience to "Just say 'NO' to non-centric spacers". |
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