I lined up both my stock nissan lug nut and my project kics and they seem to be the exact same angle, so I don't understand why a tuner lug like project kics can't be used with stock Rays... If the angle of the acorn is the same... can anyone chime in? Reason I ask, I want to get longer arp studs about 76mm total. But would DD on the 19's and track on the 18's.

I would get the proper length studs for the stock wheel spacers, and then use open ended lug nuts for the aftermarket wheels, since you will be using smaller spacers for the aftermarkets.

the stock lugnuts use the flat space to hold the wheel down, not the tapered part.

I run ARP 75mm studs and for the OEM wheels, have machined the ends off the OEM lug nuts - took 45 minutes in the lathe to do all 20 nuts, and then ran a tap thru to make sure the thread was cleaned up.

I have also decided to go 9.5 wide on 18's for my square setup with 265/35R18 tyres (lots of choices: Bridgestone RE55S, R888, Advan A050, DZ03G plus the Pirelli Corsa R-spec - one of my race buddies here in Melbourne is the Pirelli motorsport distributor supplying the Australian GT Championships with slick race tyres so I can get them at a reasonable price - for Aus).

My reasons: I reckon there is such a thing as too much tyre and 295 front/305 rear comes into that category on a car with near OEM levels of torque (definitely not true for FI engine though). My race car works just fine on 290mm slicks and it has 280Kwatw (soon to be 340). Too much tyre causes drag and friction which wastes the limited torque I have with the standard VQ37 engine. If/when I put the fat VQ37 engine into the Z34 that might change, but that is another story and a ways off at that.

The other benefit with 9.5 square and "little" tyres is that I can run standard suspension arm angles (mostly) as the rolling dia of the 265/35 is only 610mml down from ~670 for OEM tyres), so I lower the CoG and ride height by ~30mm without changing suspension angles so camber gain in bump is not as extreme as it might be on a lowered car. It does imply harder springs to keep the car off the ground though - but not a big step up (12kg/mm).

Wheels are Subaru spec (+37 offset) TC105N and I have 25mm spacer for the rear and 15mm spacer for the front so I finish up with +22 at front and +12 at rear. Spacers all machined hub-centric to suit OEM hub and wheel centre bore. If I can get a bit more negative at the front, I can go +12 front and +0 at the rear with a bit of attention to the inner guards - but that will be the absolute limit

Thanks for the reply but I'd like to, if possible to keep my stock lock key on the rays as it's gonna be my DD. I have a feeling someone's gonna jack my Rays. Therefore I'd prefer not to use open lug nuts for the DD set of wheels.

Is there a way I could use 75mm ARP studs and rather than hacking on the OEM lug nuts to make it open I can hack on the ARP studs and make it shorter to make it work for both my scenarios?

I rather get a different spacers if needed for the Stock Rays and a set of open lug nuts (instead of closed lug nuts) for the track wheels than to hack on my OEM lug nuts.

-The best situation is to be able to hack on the ARP stud and get closed lug nuts for both situations.

Please advise. Thanks!

My idea is:
Rays Wheels (Daily Driver)
Front: 19x9 ET 47 with 20mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 27)
Rear: 19x10 ET 30 with 25mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 5)

Enkei PPF01 (Track Wheels)
Front: 18x10.5 ET 38 with 10mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 28)
Rear: 18x10.5 ET 38 with 20mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 18)

ARP studs are hardened futher-muckers .... will take some cutting methinks !!!

Not reason why you couldn't do it, BUT measure three times before you cut.

The lug nuts must engage at least 13mm of thread to be "safe".

I still reckon you can "open" the OEM lug nuts - won;t make a lot of difference cosmetically and your "lock nuts" are still workable .... I'll take some photo's of my set up tomorrow night and post .... donlt like the idea of cutting ARP studs ... will wreck lots of hacksaw blades ...

What if I take it to a machine shop, u think a machine shop could easily cut it if needed?
I guess ultimately I want to figure out what length stud will these extend stud protrude pass the wheel? Is there some kind of calculator to figure this out without the wheels or the extended studs? All I know is the APR studs are 75mm long, what about the stock ones and how much do they protrude pass the wheel to make the 13mm minimum thread engagement?

BGTV8, thats the same idea I was planning on doing. I am currently running staggered TC105n's, 18x9.5 +35 and 18x10.5+12 with a 10mm spacer in front and a 5mm spacer in the rear. After tons of research, I was sad that the 18x10.5+12 was just not gonna work for me as a square setup with excessive camber, pulled/rolled fenders and stretched tires. I will probably eventually sell my rears and buy another set of fronts so I can do a square set up like yours and keep my 10mm spacer up front an possibly a 25 or 30mm spacer in the rear. I was looking at doing a 275/35 square setup with RE-11's as my car will still be my daily as well.

you need 62 and 67mm studs with the 20/25mm spacers. Just buy H&R Hubcentric spacers and use the studs that come with them, and then open ended lugnuts for your race wheels.

Thanks for the useful info, so stud lengths are NOT depended on width of the wheel nor the offset is that correct?

It only depends on the spacers used since the hub flange is the same, similar to the thickness of the wheel being sandwich between the lug nut is that correct?

http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps924e57b0.png

Spacers (Front / Rear):
Sports Rays: 20mm / 25mm
Track Wheels: 10mm / 20mm

Here's the tricky part, if I were to use the Studs that come with the H&R Spacer kit, in there it doesn't state the length

Anyone know if the 10mm H&R Spacer Kit which I'll use for the front to track be 62 mm in length?
(Website only states DRS Use for 10-40mm widening)
Similarly, anyone know if the 20mm H&R Spacer Kit which I'll use for the rear provided in the kit be 67mm?
(Website only states DRS Use for 10-40mm widening)

I never measured the studs, but if you buy the H&R spacers for the 370z, the stud lengths will be what you need.

Don't buy spacers yet, I just ordered but I might not need em!

Alright cool thanks! let me know when you get em, I have a track day coming up April 8 at Sears Pt Infineon and would like to have my new setup by then.

anyone know what the proper offset for front and rear i should have if I do decide to run with 18x10 square?