at-3degrees camber, squeezing. 10.5 should be fairly simple to do. I don't have camber kits yet so I'm sitting at-1.7 from the drop. the TC105ns do come in a 9.5
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02-28-2013, 11:43 PM | #46 (permalink) |
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at-3degrees camber, squeezing. 10.5 should be fairly simple to do. I don't have camber kits yet so I'm sitting at-1.7 from the drop. the TC105ns do come in a 9.5 +10 option which is something you could run a 285 on. at 17.6lbs per wheel, you can't go wrong. If you wanna try to squeeze the 10.5 +12 on there, they only weigh 18.4lbs each. ID love to do a square set up with the 10.5" eventually but I'll worry once the car gets more into race form and I have a track to do it with.
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02-28-2013, 11:49 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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Even 10.5+15 will not clear for track use with a 275 or 285 tire for sure, I test fitted it and I am running -3.3 camber and couldnt tuck the wheel without later ripping off the fender when I bottom out.
There are tons of options for a 9.5" tire, but once you start getting super fast at the track, you are only going to wear out and chunk out the edge of the tire once you overheat them when you ride a 275 or 285 tire. |
03-01-2013, 12:16 AM | #48 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
that's really good to know for the future! Thank you for sharing. That puts a slight change in my future plans then if I ever plan on competing at a higher level. I was hoping there was a way for me to squeeze a square 10.5" setup with the Weds I already have
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03-01-2013, 08:30 AM | #50 (permalink) |
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scruffy, don't apologize, its something you definitely want to take the time and get right. Have you considered going with something like my Forgestars, where you can get the offsets you specifically want? The price may have gone up, but mine were 1200 for the set directly from them.
Martin, I was bottoming out in back too! I forgot about that part. My exhaust flanges got ground down a bit. and my original undertray looked like yours when I replaced it.
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03-01-2013, 08:31 AM | #51 (permalink) |
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I haven't had any chunking with my 9.5s and 275, 285 and 295s. Although I only run slick tires on them, but they always wear out on the inner side due to camber.
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03-01-2013, 10:33 AM | #52 (permalink) |
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What do you all think about a square setup with the new 295/35/18 BFG Rival on those +30 10.5 NT03 wheels? They don't make a 285 but they do make a 275. What about the 275/35/18 BFG Rival on the +27 9.5 NT03. I have -1.7F and -2.0R camber.
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03-01-2013, 11:19 AM | #53 (permalink) |
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Hi Mike, thanks for sharing Forgestar with me - I like the CF10 but they're only available in 19's. I've looked into them, I didn't know there are wheels out there that allow you to get the custom offsets you want without paying the Volks premium - the weight savings are great too! I checked out their selection, the only 18" available is 18x10 and not 18x10.5. Hmm. I could either go all 18x10 or F: 18x10 & R: 18x11.
What do you think of 285 all around on F:18x10 & R:18x11? This might be a pretty good option and I won't need spacers. Forgestar F14 18×10 offsets from +16 to +42 18×11 offsets from +23 to +55 I'm still researching for other available 18x10.5 in the front. I think I'll be okay in the end with using spacers if I could find the wheels I want. I don't mind making custom width spacers if I have to at my buddy's machine shop. Most 18x10.5 I found don't have high offsets. They're all with offsets of 27 or under which in this case spacers will only make it worst. Clint, before jumping the gun on any wheels, what range in offset do you think will work for the front with a 18x10.5? Would you say around 28-30? What other options aside from Enkei PF01 or NT03+M have you found that worked with spacers? Last edited by scruffydog; 03-01-2013 at 11:49 AM. |
03-01-2013, 11:34 AM | #54 (permalink) |
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285s will work fine on the 18x10s. I've got 275/40s on them right now. I'm +34 offset and use a 15mm rear spacer
I'm putting 275/655s on my other wheels next week.
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03-01-2013, 01:55 PM | #56 (permalink) |
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18x10 sqaure works fine too, works well with 275, even though 285 is doable. I prefer a slight stretch(.5-1inch wider then the middle ideal rim width for a tire size) for best transitional response under load. so 275 with a 10 fits that in my book, 285 on a 10.5 as well
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03-02-2013, 02:54 PM | #57 (permalink) |
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I don't have my suspension ride height set very low right now but do you guys think I should be concern with 285/35 bottoming out at the tracks with 18" and do 285/40?
I am still trying to learn car control and my KW V3 setup is still relatively soft like stock maybe only a bit stiffer. |
03-03-2013, 09:54 AM | #59 (permalink) |
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yeah, when I was bottoming out, I was pretty slammed too. I'm not anymore though.
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03-05-2013, 09:13 PM | #60 (permalink) |
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So I think i finally decided which wheels I'm going to get.
I'm going to go with Front Wheel: Enkei's PF01 18x10.5" ET 38 Spacer: 10mm (Overall offset = 28) Rear Wheel: Enkei's PF01 18x10.5" ET 38 Spacer: 20mm (Overall offset = 18) Tires: Still deciding, but will most likely be Hankook RS3 285/35 or the new Dunlop Will this work? I'm not moving on to the next HW assignment, stud replacements & Lug Nuts. Ideally, I would like to be able to mount both my Enkei PF01 18" and my Sports Rays 19" on the same APR extended studs. -I intend to buy proper spacer 20mm front/25mm rear for the Rays and use my existing OEM stock lug nuts w/ lock for DD, will I run into any issue with the stud length being too long or short? -If so, can I hack the APR stud length so I could make it work with both configuration? I intend to use a dedicated lug nuts for each set of wheels, I just want to see if there's a way to use the same APR extended studs and still keep my OEM lug nuts + lock nut for the rays without going open lug nuts. Thanks! |
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