All season tires suggestion

sparky

Thanks Alstann for some meaningful feedback as opposed to some previous posts.
This helps people like the OP make informed decisions.
Don't know about running two different types of tires though?

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2012 370Z GM 7AT/JWM LEDs / 3M clear bra / 35% tint / GTR start button / FI CBE SS 18" RES / Momo shift knob / K & N Typhoon / Z1 hood struts / H&R 20mm f/r / illuminated kickplates

DLSTR

My 370Z in the Snow - Blizzak LM-60

Read this for a graphic on page 2 on the cut off point for grip with summer and all season tires. Its about 7degree's - C.

For you all season fans:
Tire Rack Tire Test - All-Season vs. Winter Tires - YouTube - Video from Tire Rack.

sparky

Useful info and something I'm well aware of too. The tirerack test is pointless. If you're driving in snow then you must have snow tires. Unfortunately I think many are led to believe that all seasons will work in snow. They should be called 3 seasons not all seasons.
Where I live it rains a lot and winters are usually around 5C or less but no snow or very little. This is where all seasons work, with grip at lower temperatures than summer tires and some ability to deal with wet to icy conditions. In the warmer and all too short summer, they are again a compromise to summer tires but still offer decent grip.
I wouldn't bother with snow tires on the Z. If it actually does snow I'll be parking it. There's too many yahoos out there with all seasons waiting to run into me.

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2012 370Z GM 7AT/JWM LEDs / 3M clear bra / 35% tint / GTR start button / FI CBE SS 18" RES / Momo shift knob / K & N Typhoon / Z1 hood struts / H&R 20mm f/r / illuminated kickplates

DLSTR

Below 7 or 5c all season and summer's do not provide very much lateral grip if at all. Sliding is bad. Optimally you should have summers and winters. Its your car and your call. Braking action alone is worth the change. Good luck!

In Germany if you play the game you are, and you are in an accident, your fault or not, your insurance coverage can be denied. This because the science and empirical data behind this are not in any dispute. All seasons are literally laughed at here. The graph from the other thread I posted is the proof.

Alstann

No problem! I honestly praise these tires a lot, but my friend with a 300ZX TT used to break loose in first and second with RE760 sport tires, and now he runs the RE970AS and can't break loose. It seems like you do get what you pay for - these bad boys are as expensive as RE-11's!

I was initially skepticial about running different tires/coumpounds front and rear, but the more and more I delved into it, I found that some people use them to bias the oversteer/understeer characteristics, and to change how the car handles.

I dont know how legitimate those claims are, but from my personal first hand experience - I originally ran the RE970AS on all four corners. The limit of grip in cornering was near or slightly below stock levels - I had more understeer than before. I also noticed something that fundamentally changed how the car felt - the soft sidewalls caused the car to "lag" to driver input, and when sharply darting the car into turns, the car would wobble a tiny bit before settling in. It also accentuated the body roll of the stock suspension. This was a noticeable contrast to the stock RE050A - it felt like the car was on rails with the summer tires.

I decided to switch my fronts out to the Potenza S-04 Pole Position - immediately, after leaving the tire shop, I felt the responsiveness I had felt with the RE050A. Any driver input, and the car darts in. I really think the front tires help the most with the initial turn in. Of course, the rear of the car still has a tiny hint of lag, but the fronts transformed the car back to how it was.

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