anyone use this car jack?
 

Aluminum Floor Jack - 1.5 Ton Aluminum Racing Jack

I'm gonna use it mainly for wheel/tire swaps. Is 1.5 ton plenty?

I have this jack. It’s ok better then the oem one the car comes with (scissor jack). This is my 2nd one I have bought do to the swivel piece to lower the car broke they don’t last very long with a lot of use. It’s an ok buy for light weight work. I use this jack on my Honda. I would recommend something better for the Z. The Z weighs more there for the rating should be higher. I don't trust that jack with my Z. This is the real deal Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack

I see. is the steel jack more durable than aluminum? I guess I'll spend the extra money for that if it's gonna hold up longer. Also, are car chocks a necessity?

yes car chocks are very necessary.

For wheel/tire swaps do i have to lift from the front and back or is there a side jack point too?

Some of the costco's still have this jack - arcan 35xl or 325xl (3.25ton). It was/is $100. It's a pretty heavy jack, suitable for light garage duty. Suitable for dropped cars too, though you may need to drive up on some wood to clear.

Here's a review Finally got Arcan XL35R jack - The Garage Journal Board

This jack will be okay (I've been using mine for years, but on a lighter car) but I suggest up sizing to a more heavy duty aluminum one that HF also carries (whatever the next size up is) or their bigger steel one. If you buy this jack make sure you use it on smooth, flat surfaces. If the jack can't roll as you raise it, the arm will flex within the frame, not very reassuring under the weight of the Z. Also you should tighten the various screws on the jack periodically, seems they do loosen up somehow. I quite using that jack on my Z and went with a 2 or 2.5 ton steel frame.

I've got that exact one, no problems here. I usually put my car on stands immediately though.

I have that jack as well. Works fine for what I need it for. I would never work under the car though while on that jack. Once I jack it up, I put the car on jack stands.

Thanks for info guys. One more question: what size torque wrench should I get for changing wheels? 1/2 or 3/8? Or both?

1/2" drive and get a decent one, no harbor freight for that. Craftsman make good ones for a decent price.

There are side jack points as well but there not flat. You would need a hockey puck(there is a specific word for this attachment that goes on your jack to lift the car from the side jacking points or they can bend). Referrer to your cars manual for the side jack points. Also if you have never used a torque wrench before take it easy practice or get an idea of how to use because you can snap that stud like Hulk.

Right on. I'll have to look into that

^This, if you know someone that has used them in the past just have them show you, it's cake to use them.

Yea I've watched a few videos actually doesn't seem too hard, just gotta listen and feel for the "click" it seems

I had one of these. Sold it for a full sized but great for carrying it along with you.

would this:Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®, 2.5 Ton Heavy Duty Steel fit under the front and rear jack points? or do I have to get low profile? I have the sports package so I have the front chin spoiler. The minimum saddle height is essentially the same as the low profile ones but the jack itself bumps up a little higher in the back. This one is cheaper- only reason i'm asking.

I've been using Low Profile 2 Ton mentioned above and love it. It can easily reach all the lifting points except the front-center point under the motor. Be warned though that this jack is heavy as hell since it's steel.

So do you just use a hockey puck for the side jack points to avoid bending the metal?

I actually lift further in on the "frame rails". I'm sure I could use the hockey puck method to use the outer lift points but that's extra work than I don't feel like doing. I typically lift from the rear or the front myself and almost never from the sides.

Wow… That is a high quality jack; I am using an old one. I think it is better if I change to that one. How is it and where can I buy it?

I have this one. Works great, even on my lowered car. I don't even use hockey pucks for the side jack points. The jack pad has rubber on it and it doesn't seem to hurt the little side jack points.

As a matter of habit I always use chocks, but now I have an auto, is it still needed?

As you can see I am researching jacks for raising the Z, for its due oil change. I noticed under the front cross member a little round spherical part that sticks out, I am assuming this is where I place the jack ?

Now, shall I get the 2 ton HF or 1.5 ton HF? I was at HF earlier today, they were selling the 2 ton one for 160, I passed as they are having a memorial sale with 20 percent off, so will wait til then.

Also, will the 1.5 ton HF fit under the center cross member?

Just browsing their website, saw this, much cheaper..

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61253.html

They have about 4 different versions of the 3 ton low profile jacks, not sure what the differences are?

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...?q=Floor+Jacks

HF website is not very user friendly, it has an area to "look up" to see if this item is at my local HF store, but all this does once I enter my zip is bring a list of stores close to me, when I pick one the only option is to get directions?

Chocks and stands are ALWAYS required when using a hydraulic jack. Unless you want 3000+ pounds of car sitting on your chest. All that stands between you and catastrophe is a cheap o-ring.

RTFM for jack points. Something you should know in case of a flat.

I like to get the highest rated jack that will fit the application. Some people are OK with 1.5T for a Z; I prefer at least 2T. YMMV

Took me a while to figure what RTFM meant heheh..So its basically the part that curves out like a semi ball shape in the front of the cross member then. I will be getting the 2 ton low profile steel one for HF.

Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack

This......so this! I had the rapid pump aluminum one and what a pos. This has the longest neck on it and best height all around. Worth the coin my friend.

I just bought the 2t low pro racing jack last week from HF and love it so far. It has a rubber pad on the lift point already and it takes four pumps to get it high enough to take a wheel off. I paid $159 for it. I had a coupon for 20% off any item but when I cashed out i found out it doesn't apply for jacks, compressors, or anything over $100. I was pissed! But I got it anyway because I needed it and it was lower than any other jack for that price. I still used wood to get to the front cross member but the rear is fine, and so are the sides.

Yeah, been looking at that one. I see on their website they have other ones for $89?

Item #61253 and 61282

Pretty confusing, especially when another forum member bought 68050 ( like the one you linked ) for its length but it was just 29 inches like the item numbers above.

Please do not buy the cheapest hyd jack (or stands) you can find. In my book, that's right up there with buying the cheapest parachute. Hyd jacks are pretty reliable but the consequences of failure can be lethal. Spend the few extra bucks to get a good one.

Go in store and buy that same model regardless. It works great for getting the rear lifted between the two exhaust pipes and great lift for high jacking.

I bought this one.
Sucks that it's SOOOOOOOO damn heavy... But I'll take it. It's the only jack that can reach that far under the car

Can it reach front cross member to raise front of car?

Most jacks are going to have issues with that unless you roll up on a couple of 2x10s first. It's much easier to use the pinch welds on the sides.

Thanks Chuck. I think someone got the jack to go under but had to use a plier or hand a few times to raise a little then slotted in the handle.

I am on my way to go buy this jack now. However I think they only have the more expensive aluminum one.

fwiw. Fast Intentions CBE has the pipes too close to the diff for this to work. When lifting mine I put a block of wood on the jack to prevent making contact with the pipes.

It's all on hangers....there is some allowable flex to it. As i have the same setup with ark.

Yep, I just came back from HF and bought this one also, barely fitted in the trunk! LOL also my back hurts now hahaha!

Yeah, but the bitch fits in the passenger footwell (barely) so I can take it places. Just sucks because I work on a lot of peoples' cars so I have to lug that damn thing around a lot

The one we have is definately longer than the aluminum one, hence I got this one. Else I would have paid an extra 20 and got the alu one as its lighter but only 1.5 ton I think.

Major fail already, Had the car raised and then took the trolly jack hand off, now I cannot access to put the handle back on. When I took the handle off the trolly jack handle connector when into the vertical position FML.