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Fitment Factory 20x13

Originally Posted by djpathfinder No wonder. Need to be as perpendicular as possible for maximal traction. Hopefully you can achieve that despite a 13" width wheel with (likely) very aggressive

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Old 10-20-2011, 01:45 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by djpathfinder View Post
No wonder. Need to be as perpendicular as possible for maximal traction. Hopefully you can achieve that despite a 13" width wheel with (likely) very aggressive offset. You should have all the traction you need with 345 tires, otherwise easy on pedal to the metal. Have you considered an aftermarket traction control unit?
My offsets are actually very tame

The car is my daily so I rather just be easy on the pedal as you suggested.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:21 PM   #32 (permalink)
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On my old tires(295/30/20) and stock wheels I have no traction.
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Originally Posted by m4a1mustang View Post
What would you say it is, then?

-2.6 on your old stretched tires definitely explains a lack of traction. Hopefully the new setup helps you.
that and the lack of sidewall. I think part of why i can grip with similar HP and a narrower tire is that i'm on 17" tires with a 45% profile, you are on 20's with 30% profile.

have any ideas for what kind of track setup you'll run? or do you not plan to do that?
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:24 PM   #33 (permalink)
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that and the lack of sidewall. I think part of why i can grip with similar HP and a narrower tire is that i'm on 17" tires with a 45% profile, you are on 20's with 30% profile.

have any ideas for what kind of track setup you'll run? or do you not plan to do that?
That's what I meant. With -2.6 degrees of camber and a 30 profile tire stretched across the rim, he had barely any contact patch.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:26 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I know that, which is why I said "probably" and gave a 450-465 range on the average DynoJet.

Mainly because someone said your numbers read low, I wanted to point out that Mustang dynos typically do... it wasn't a knock at you or your car at all...
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I know.

But seems like so many people get wrapped up in a "number" to attach to a car. Any dyno can be calibrated to read whatever. The dyno is a tool not the "end all be all" for indicators of performance on the street.


yea the important thing is to always dyno your car on the same dyno when you change things. And yes, dyno's can so easily be calibrated to skew the results, which is why i'm always suspicious when shops have in house dyno's and want to show off custom work. nothing like going to another dyno and finding out your car has like 75 less hp than you thought
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:28 PM   #35 (permalink)
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that and the lack of sidewall. I think part of why i can grip with similar HP and a narrower tire is that i'm on 17" tires with a 45% profile, you are on 20's with 30% profile.

have any ideas for what kind of track setup you'll run? or do you not plan to do that?
Once I get squared away with the new ISS Forged set, I will start on finding a nice set for the track.

Any suggestions as a starting point?
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:48 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:53 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Once I get squared away with the new ISS Forged set, I will start on finding a nice set for the track.

Any suggestions as a starting point?
for 1/4 mile or for road course?

if you are going to just do 1/4 mile i'd get some 18x10.5+15 Enkei rpf01's with drag radials for the back and call it a day. really cheap, good wheels, very light. No real need to get all four wheels for drag racing unless you are really concerned about unsprung weight on the front wheels. theres something badass about mismatched front/rear wheels on a car at a drag strip.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:55 PM   #38 (permalink)
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for 1/4 mile or for road course?

if you are going to just do 1/4 mile i'd get some 18x10.5+15 Enkei rpf01's with drag radials for the back and call it a day. really cheap, good wheels, very light. No real need to get all four wheels for drag racing unless you are really concerned about unsprung weight on the front wheels. theres something badass about mismatched front/rear wheels on a car at a drag strip.
That's a great start/idea.

rep'd
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:58 PM   #39 (permalink)
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for 1/4 mile or for road course?

if you are going to just do 1/4 mile i'd get some 18x10.5+15 Enkei rpf01's with drag radials for the back and call it a day. really cheap, good wheels, very light. No real need to get all four wheels for drag racing unless you are really concerned about unsprung weight on the front wheels. theres something badass about mismatched front/rear wheels on a car at a drag strip.
How much are the rpf01's with drag radials typically? I may be interested in these for future drag racing purposes.
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:27 PM   #40 (permalink)
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How much are the rpf01's with drag radials typically? I may be interested in these for future drag racing purposes.
brand new you can get the 18x10.5 for 360 each on vivid racing. ii'm not sure what drag radials you might prefer, but the Nitto NT-05R in a 285/40/18 would fit those wheels well and would be within 1% the correct overall diameter. most people prefer Micky Thompson's though.
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:28 PM   #41 (permalink)
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That's a great start/idea.

rep'd
thanks
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:39 PM   #42 (permalink)
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PM jeffblue if you want suggestions on what's the best set up to use for a track/drag strip
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:40 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:40 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:42 PM   #45 (permalink)
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