Originally Posted by djpathfinder No wonder. Need to be as perpendicular as possible for maximal traction. Hopefully you can achieve that despite a 13" width wheel with (likely) very aggressive
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10-20-2011, 01:45 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
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The car is my daily so I rather just be easy on the pedal as you suggested. |
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10-20-2011, 02:21 PM | #32 (permalink) | ||
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have any ideas for what kind of track setup you'll run? or do you not plan to do that? |
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10-20-2011, 02:24 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
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10-20-2011, 02:26 PM | #34 (permalink) | ||
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yea the important thing is to always dyno your car on the same dyno when you change things. And yes, dyno's can so easily be calibrated to skew the results, which is why i'm always suspicious when shops have in house dyno's and want to show off custom work. nothing like going to another dyno and finding out your car has like 75 less hp than you thought |
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10-20-2011, 02:28 PM | #35 (permalink) | |
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Any suggestions as a starting point? |
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10-20-2011, 02:53 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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if you are going to just do 1/4 mile i'd get some 18x10.5+15 Enkei rpf01's with drag radials for the back and call it a day. really cheap, good wheels, very light. No real need to get all four wheels for drag racing unless you are really concerned about unsprung weight on the front wheels. theres something badass about mismatched front/rear wheels on a car at a drag strip. |
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10-20-2011, 02:55 PM | #38 (permalink) | |
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10-20-2011, 02:58 PM | #39 (permalink) | |
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10-20-2011, 03:27 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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brand new you can get the 18x10.5 for 360 each on vivid racing. ii'm not sure what drag radials you might prefer, but the Nitto NT-05R in a 285/40/18 would fit those wheels well and would be within 1% the correct overall diameter. most people prefer Micky Thompson's though.
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10-20-2011, 03:40 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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10-20-2011, 03:40 PM | #44 (permalink) |
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