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Factory Wheels and Spacers ?
I've searched the forum several times now trying to determine the following, I had no luck.
If I add 15mm 'Bolt On' spacers to the REAR (the spacers that already have lugs, and you bolt them over current factory lugs) will the factory lugs protrude beyond the spacers and interfer by hitting the wheels when you attempt to remount them? .... or do the factory Rear wheels have an inset (space) that allows such a protrusions to not contact the wheels? I have found that the Front rims won't accept these type of 15mm (and many mfg website note such for the front wheels) but how about the REAR's? I really don't care to get into changing out the rear factory studs, so, if the 15mm noted above won't fit on the rear to protruding studs, will 20mm bolt on's work? Are they thick enought to solve the problem? Thanks in advance for your answers. |
I think the consensus was that 15's won't fit without some wheel modifications. 20's are OK.
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I have replacement studs for the front and bolt on type for the back with factory wheels. The spacers are 15mm. H&R DRS in front and H&R DRM in the back.
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Yes. Well at least the 19" ones do. I will have a look at my 18" wheels to see if they are too.
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I just ordered the Stillen 15mm bolt on's. |
bad news
Bad news. A 3 week back order from Stillen for those 15mm bolt-on's. I guess this could be viewed as a positive, give me more time to confirm the factory rear RAY Rims have a recessed area deep enought to accept the remaining protruding factory studs.
Does anyone else have any experience with bolt on 15mm's? |
you can use the 15's on the rear, but for the front you will need to grind down the stud if you're committed to keeping your stock wheels for a long time. even on my 20mm i had to grind down just 1.5mm on the wheel side to make clearance.
not that it's that hard to replace studs if you change your mind later. :p |
I guess my question is why haven't you gone outside and measured the inner lip of your wheel hub?
Stud length beyond hub - 15mm is < or = the depth of the wheel crevice then you are good... if not then it won't work. |
or look through the DIY modshack did... he even posted pictures of depth with a ruler..
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Yea, I could come home from work, go get the floor jack out of the building, jack the car and risk damage, go buy a torque wrench, take the wheel off, measure then replace and retorque it, put all tool back in place ... OR ... I can take 30 seconds to post the question to numerious folks who already know the answer! Call me lazy. |
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