Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   F14 fitment (http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/31588-f14-fitment.html)

christian370z 03-02-2011 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedworks (Post 966439)
Interesting, I don't think I understand it then. Many of those with swifts are getting oem specs or very close (0.1 off, which could be measurement error).

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...viewed-13.html

Look on page 13 for specifics.

You can stay within the OEM range of camber front and rear, but you will be on the more aggressive end of that range without camber arms front and rear. More aggressive camber can help the car turn in more crisply and it can give the car a more precise feeling.

murphman 03-02-2011 07:46 PM

I too am planning on ordering F14's soon hopefully, thanks OP for starting this thread. One thing, does anyone know a vendor on the forumns that sells these? thanks guys.

NISMOFO 03-02-2011 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djpathfinder (Post 965722)
You'll need a front camber kit then, cuz front camber cannot be adjusted with the stock upper control arm.

+1. I'm at -1.4 up front with a 0.9" drop. I would love OEM camber settings. Just waiting for the spl uppers to be released someday. That gives me time to save for them too.

NISMOFO 03-02-2011 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djpathfinder (Post 965294)
Are you lowered or stock height?

stock height: 19x9 +27, 19x11 +23
lowered: 19x9 +20, 19x11 +17

You could go a little (or a lot) more aggressive if you want to play with negative camber front and rear. ;)

I wish forgestar made +17 in 19x11". +23 is the lowest. Lower offsets also add more weight to the back of the hub on one piece wheels. One piece Wheel manufacturers typically advertise the weights of their highest offsetsbecause they weigh less.

NISMOFO 03-02-2011 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedworks (Post 966439)
Interesting, I don't think I understand it then. Many of those with swifts are getting oem specs or very close (0.1 off, which could be measurement error).

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...viewed-13.html

Look on page 13 for specifics.

In addition to what djoathfinder said....

In spec is misleading if someone wants OEM like alignment. Technically -1.4 front is in spec but that's a lot of camber compared to -0.6 stock up front. Handling is better and tire wear is worse.

Front camber kits push in/out the top of the wheel while rear kits push in/out the bottom of the rear wheels.

I would say knowing in advance if you are going to be running a camber kit would be useful for wheel offset decisions.

NISMOFO 03-02-2011 08:13 PM

19x9 +24 -1.4 camber 0.9" drop 255/40
19x11 +24 -1.8 camber 0.8" drop 305/30

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...9-26163211.jpg

speedworks 03-02-2011 09:02 PM

^^ I'm ok with these. I prefer an oem setting that is aggressive. I have induced more negative camber before in my vehicles for autox/track use, but it does wear the tires down faster (at least on the inside). Luckily I only put 6k a year on this vehicle :)

djpathfinder 03-02-2011 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NISMOFO (Post 966527)
I wish forgestar made +17 in 19x11". +23 is the lowest. Lower offsets also add more weight to the back of the hub on one piece wheels. One piece Wheel manufacturers typically advertise the weights of their highest offsetsbecause they weigh less.

The numbers I quoted are just mathematical. The only way to get exact offsets is to go with a custom built wheel. Otherwise, if +23 is the closest, go with that. It's only a 6 mm (1/4") difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NISMOFO (Post 966547)
In addition to what djoathfinder said....

In spec is misleading if someone wants OEM like alignment. Technically -1.4 front is in spec but that's a lot of camber compared to -0.6 stock up front. Handling is better and tire wear is worse.

Front camber kits push in/out the top of the wheel while rear kits push in/out the bottom of the rear wheels.

I would say knowing in advance if you are going to be running a camber kit would be useful for wheel offset decisions.

A bit of "toe in" can help with "scrubbing" the outer edges of the tire, and thus help even out the wear. Even at -1.4 (the inner limits of the camber range), you will be fine. It's if you run something very aggressive like beyond -2.0 where you need to watch how your tires wear.

Regarding your statement about knowing camber in advance and offset decisions...yes and no. Camber adjustments should be made to bring camber back to alignment specs (stock height or lowered), or if you want to augment the car's handling characteristics. Some people buy wheels with really aggressive offset and then add a ton of negative camber to get the wheel to tuck in properly. But really, one should buy wheels with proper offsets and keep the cosmetic camber adjustments to a minimum. If I may make an analogy (for fear of opening a new can of worms), you can buy a body kit and rear wing for looks, or for function.

Having said that, my camber settings are: -2.2 front and -2.0 rear. I wanted an aggressive street setup with more front camber to improve turn in response. These settings feel good both on the street and track so far.

My car is lowered by 0.75" front and 0.5" rear and is corner balanced. I also have 15mm front and 20mm spacers. After lowering my front camber was really out of whack (-1.0 and -1.6). Rear camber was around -3.0. I ended up buying SPC front and rear camber kits because the front camber wasn't adjustable with OEM parts, and they could only bring the rear camber back to -2.4 with the OEM components. When I was doing my research on the forum before lowering people were saying you don't need camber kits (especially front) if you go with less than a 1" drop, but that wasn't the case with mine anyway. However, some people don't mind being out of spec for different reasons, including cosmetic.

Nismofo...nice setup on your car, BTW!

NISMOFO 03-02-2011 09:32 PM

I really have to agree. And I am personally guilty lately of spending too much time focused on the looks over the handling. I drive my car a lot so tire wear is important. For example I have a rear camber /toe kit and my current setup is -1.4 F / -1.2 R camber.....unlike the pic I posted showing -1.8 R.

If I had a front camber kit, I'd probably flip my settings to -0.6 F / -1.6 R like stock.

My apologies to the OP if we got too off topic. Ultimately this can all help.....I hope.

oleg 03-03-2011 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike (Post 965602)
if you want to go square, the 10" all around will work fine. I am square on 18x9.5 for the track and have a set of 4 18x10 F14s on order.

what offset did you order on the 18x10. also do you think there would be rubbing if i got those in 19s and used stock tires?

Mike 03-04-2011 09:21 AM

+34. I will have to run spacers in the rear, but I like a square setup for rotating them. I'm not sure how they would work for 19s, I just copied travisjb's setup.

NISMOFO 03-04-2011 09:36 AM

I would love to see pics of 18" F14s on someone's car.

djpathfinder 03-04-2011 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike (Post 969165)
+34. I will have to run spacers in the rear, but I like a square setup for rotating them. I'm not sure how they would work for 19s, I just copied travisjb's setup.

+34 is right for the fronts to be tucked in slightly or just flush. Are you going to use a 15 mm spacer in the back?

Mike 03-04-2011 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djpathfinder (Post 969403)
+34 is right for the fronts to be tucked in slightly or just flush. Are you going to use a 15 mm spacer in the back?

yes

oleg 03-04-2011 07:40 PM

Does 19x9F +20 and 19x10R +20 sound about right to you guys? I couldn't find anyone that had already done 19X10 with forgestar f14s so i decided to stay on the safe side. I'm running with a low offset because i dont want to be using spacers but still have a flush fit.


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