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Originally Posted by daisuke149 cant really compare an r compound with a regular performance tire.... the extreme contacts will prolly last about 3x as long as the ad08's. but the
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#1 (permalink) | |
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how long will the extreme contact dws last. i got about 18000 out of my stock tires |
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I'm hoping mine last in the 40k range but that's probably wishful thinking lol
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SOLD 12/30/2011 2010 370Z Coupe Monterey Blue 6MT/Touring/Sport/Nav F.I. CBE CF w/ 12" Res | V1 | SecondSkin | Stillen G3 | EVO-R CF B-Pillars | Volk GT-S Ti Gunmetal 19x9.5 +30 F, 19x10.5 +8 R | Swift Spec-R Springs |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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i have mine i just havnt put them on yet. the treadwear is 540 i believe so in theory they should last 5 times as long as the oem ones cause their treadwear is 140. we'll see haha |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Incidentally I drove through some light rain yesterday with a few standing water areas on the highway and the car felt a lot more stable than what I remember the stock bridgestones felt like.
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SOLD 12/30/2011 2010 370Z Coupe Monterey Blue 6MT/Touring/Sport/Nav F.I. CBE CF w/ 12" Res | V1 | SecondSkin | Stillen G3 | EVO-R CF B-Pillars | Volk GT-S Ti Gunmetal 19x9.5 +30 F, 19x10.5 +8 R | Swift Spec-R Springs |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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The tires are asymmetrical, but the tread pattern is bidirectional. That mean you can swap left-to-right every 5-6K. |
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Does swapping side to side really do anything though? if your alignment's good I don't see it being any benefit.
Also I just drove through some heavy rain and I didn't feel any instability what so ever. I have about 3k miles on these tires so maybe it's the new tread but felt much better than the stocks in heavy rain.
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SOLD 12/30/2011 2010 370Z Coupe Monterey Blue 6MT/Touring/Sport/Nav F.I. CBE CF w/ 12" Res | V1 | SecondSkin | Stillen G3 | EVO-R CF B-Pillars | Volk GT-S Ti Gunmetal 19x9.5 +30 F, 19x10.5 +8 R | Swift Spec-R Springs |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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I just went through the OEM Advans on this car, 18.5K on the original alignment. The wear was even; the car didn't pull. The right rear wore out faster than the rest, which is typical for an open-differentialed rear-wheel drive car. But I'm paying for an alignment when I put the new tires on -- why? Well, I'm plus-sizing (245/45-18 front and 275/40-18 rear) in order to get this particular brand tire. So the contact geometry is changing a little. Second, I believe the treadwear rating of 540, and don't want the tires to wear prematurely. Third, obviously, you have to do this for the warranty coverage. ![]() But there's also an anecdotal piece of car knowledge I rely on, namely, my neighbor (who used to both race and own a car service station). His job now puts about 100K on the road every year. So every other weekend, he out there rotating his tires. He wears them down to slicks -- he says the handling is actually better -- and the fronts have modest negative camber for his driving preference. I don't expect to set the Z up with anything other than pure-spec stock alignment, maybe zero out the toe-in if there is one. But I appreciate my neighbor's explanation that there's a lot you can do to keep your tires alive just by rotating them. The increased wear on the right rear, for example, is completely normal, but you can extend that tire's life by using the left rear as well. Most cars used as daily drivers in urban settings get more damage accruing to the right rather than left, from curbs, loose stuff on the roadway, and potholes. Hope this helps. If you're running synthetic oil you might be getting around 5K between oil changes, so that's an easy time to rotate. If you change oil at 3K, then do the swap every other time. |
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