The "Will it fit?" thread

[OptionZero]

oh my god. Reading that exchange made my head hurt. We're reduced to putting front wheels on the rear of the Z?

What is the goal here?

I mean, you're putting all seasons to get through the snow season, just slap them on your existing wheels.

Stock suspension, all season tires, oem wheels . . . lets just throw looks out of the equation and go with cheap and practical (as can be for driving a Z in the snow)

[/Angelo350Z/]

Darwins Child, just get 20mm front and 25mm rear spacers on your OEM Rays and you'll be set. The forum has countless pictures of that setup, including myself. If you're worried about rotating tires, then perhaps a sports car with factory staggered wheels and tires wasn't the best choice. Still, you can make it work with either going relatively wide up front, or relatively skinny in the rear. A square setup is a compromise either way you slice it. If you're going to drive your Z in the snow, then wheel spacers "for the right look" should be the least of your concerns.

[Darwins Child]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

oh my god. Reading that exchange made my head hurt. We're reduced to putting front wheels on the rear of the Z?

What is the goal here?

I mean, you're putting all seasons to get through the snow season, just slap them on your existing wheels.

Stock suspension, all season tires, oem wheels . . . lets just throw looks out of the equation and go with cheap and practical (as can be for driving a Z in the snow)

I guess I wasn't clear enough. The goal is not to drive in snow during the winter months (although it would be nice to be able to take our summer-only toy out of storage for a winter emergency), but to be able to do so in other months if snow should unexpectedly happen, and, more importantly, to be able to operate in cold, wet weather during Edmonton's few "summer" months.

Not only that, but I'd like to be able to rotate wheels / tires however I wish without having to remove tires from wheels, and this means having all four wheels the same.

The more I learn about this, the more I think those wheels can / should be all rears rather than fronts, but I'm far from certain about that. At this point I'd like to be able to get away with simply buying two rears for the front and not installing spacers anywhere. But maybe there are good handling reasons not to do this, rather than aesthetic.

[/Angelo350Z/]

Originally Posted by Darwins Child

I guess I wasn't clear enough. The goal is not to drive in snow during the winter months (although it would be nice to be able to take our summer-only toy out of storage for a winter emergency), but to be able to do so in other months if snow should unexpectedly happen, and, more importantly, to be able to operate in cold, wet weather during Edmonton's few "summer" months.

Not only that, but I'd like to be able to rotate wheels / tires however I wish without having to remove tires from wheels, and this means having all four wheels the same.

The more I learn about this, the more I think those wheels can / should be all rears rather than fronts, but I'm far from certain about that. At this point I'd like to be able to get away with simply buying two rears for the front and not installing spacers anywhere. But maybe there are good handling reasons not to do this, rather than aesthetic.

If you run a square setup (19x10 OEM wheels and tires all around), and you like how the front looks, you'd still need spacers in the rear to make the rear wheels flushed relative to the front. Running a square setup would also make your Z handle quite differently. Not bad in any way, just different. Our cars, as most RWD sports cars, were designed with staggered wheels and tires for the purpose of understeering at the limit. Running a square wheel and tire combination would neutralize the understeer and increase the potential for oversteer.

[Darwins Child]

Originally Posted by /Angelo350Z/

Darwins Child, just get 20mm front and 25mm rear spacers on your OEM Rays and you'll be set. The forum has countless pictures of that setup, including myself.
.................

I just happened to stumble upon a Z owner who did exactly that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PI40CSA_WWU

Even though I must admit that the result looks good, I think I could sleep quite comfortably with no spacers on the rear.

But if I did decide to get spacers for the rear, are 25mm spacers that are made out of steel available for the Z, or is it aluminum or nothing? Even though the wheels themselves are made out of aluminum, for a critical part with this purpose, I would prefer steel, just like the OEM hub.

Thanks for the education.

[shadow85]

I don't know what offset I am to choose. I have most likely settled on Work Meister S13P 19".

19x9.5 front
19x10.5 rear.

What offset do I chose and what disk type, A, O, L, R, T?
I would like a deep dish on the rear, and step lip.
I have a stock 2015 370Z with the factory sports brakes.

Can anyone help me choose the correct specs here?

[OptionZero]

Didn't you already have an entire thread on this same subject? Jeez.

Look at the size chart here for available sizes.
T-disk in front will clear sport brakes
A-disk in rear for maximum lip in rear

Look at the available offsets for those respective discs, and each rim width

19x9.5 +22, 19x10.5 +12 is a common spec that people run with TE37(SL), can fit various tire sizes without much camber adjustment if any and at various heights.

For 19x9.5, T-disk the nearest available size is either +17 or +30. +17 will push the wheel outward, reducing how much tire you can run, possibly requiring camber. +30 will push the wheel inward. It'll fit easy but its super conservative. Again, if you've been following along, either offset will clear because both are T-DISK and brake clearance is based on this face/disc design. +30 offset will 58mm of lip. +17 will have 71mm of lip

For the rear 19x10.5, A-disc, look at the chart, do the same thing. Nearest available offsets to the generic size of 19x10.5, +12 are either +16 (109mm lip) or +3 (121mm lip)

"Deep dish" is a generic term. The chart gives you all the available lip sizes depending on the width/offset. You pick how much lip you and whether you want to put in the work to make it fit

and go to the links i posted in your other thread to see CarbonFZ's build which had like three different sets of Works in aggressive sizing, but then we're talking coilovers and full SPL everything.

[KamiSpeed]

Originally Posted by shadow85

I don't know what offset I am to choose. I have most likely settled on Work Meister S13P 19".

19x9.5 front
19x10.5 rear.

What offset do I chose and what disk type, A, O, L, R, T?
I would like a deep dish on the rear, and step lip.
I have a stock 2015 370Z with the factory sports brakes.

Can anyone help me choose the correct specs here?

Sure can!

19x9.5 +17 T-Disk (71mm lip) | Front
19x10.5 +12 R-Disk (96mm lip) | Rear

Will give a nice flush fit and decent sized lips and clear Akebonos. Wont have to stretch tires.

[/Angelo350Z/]

Originally Posted by Darwins Child

I just happened to stumble upon a Z owner who did exactly that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PI40CSA_WWU

Even though I must admit that the result looks good, I think I could sleep quite comfortably with no spacers on the rear.

But if I did decide to get spacers for the rear, are 25mm spacers that are made out of steel available for the Z, or is it aluminum or nothing? Even though the wheels themselves are made out of aluminum, for a critical part with this purpose, I would prefer steel, just like the OEM hub.

Thanks for the education.

There's nothing wrong or unsafe with running spacers, provided they get torqued down properly. H&R makes great quality hub-centric spacers for our cars. I've used Ichiba and H&R on my 350Z and 370Z, respectively. I must say, H&R's quality is top notch.

[Darwins Child]

To see what a rear looks like on the front, this morning I swapped passenger-side wheels and took some photos. The last two photos are of the front wheel on the rear.

I really liked the idea of a rear on the front, but the reality is that I think the rear wheel on the front pokes out too far. I think road debris is going to get flung up onto the side of the vehicle. I hope anybody who runs rears on the front will chime in with their experience with this potential issue.

However, I also noticed that the side-wall of the tire bulges out beyond the outermost side of the wheel by at least 1/2", probably more like 3/4". If that bulge were not there, it is possible that a rear on the front would be barely acceptable, but I'd have to be convinced before taking that chance.

Although some people find the notion of fronts on the rear of a Z objectionable, if I want to have 4 identical wheels and tires, they are going to have to be either four OEM fronts or, alternatively, aftermarket wheels that are somewhat wider than the OEM front and somewhat narrower than the OEM rear. But I haven't seen an aftermarket wheel that looks as beautiful as our present Rays on a Z. Aesthetically, they make a perfect marriage, IMO.

If I decide to go 4 OEM sport fronts, I'll most likely buy spacers for the rears that are thick enough to bring the outer edge of the wheel to where the OEM rear normally is.

There's a good chance that I'll leave things exactly as they are and when the OEM tires inevitably wear out, get two different sized Michelin Pilot A/S 3" tires and just rotate side to side.

Speaking of rotation, this morning I was surprised to notice the word "outside" on our vehicle's OEM Bridgestone Potenza RE050A tires. For some reason I had assumed that the OEM tires were directional, but I assume that "outside" means that these tires can be swapped side-to-side without removing tires from wheels, which is a very good thing. In the spring I'll be lifting the vehicle again to do a side-to-side swap of front and rear tires, so please tell me if they are indeed directional.

Thanks.

[OptionZero]

It's amazing to see someone treat their 370Z like a daily driver Camry

[jchammond]

Good test; now you know what it takes on the oem camber spec....guys that lower their cars run more -camber....Notice that those tires have rim-guards built in them...not all sidewalls have them.
That's referred to as an aggressive fit.


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[jchammond]

Also, you can run your fingers between inner tire & upper control arm/ see how much room you have, in the event you ordered some custom wheels.
The outside of that wheel is equivalent to a +23 9.5"


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[Darwins Child]

Originally Posted by jchammond

Also, you can run your fingers between inner tire & upper control arm/ see how much room you have, in the event you ordered some custom wheels.
The outside of that wheel is equivalent to a +23 9.5"


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Now you tell me!

Unfortunately, I've moved the wheels back to their original configuration. I should have thought of doing that while the rear was on the front.

(I should also have at least turned the wheels from stop to stop to see if the tires hit anything, but I didn't do that either, because as soon as I initially saw how far the wheel/tire poked out, that pretty much dissolved my remaining resolve to have rears on the front.)

But I will keep what you've said in mind should I go aftermarket.

Thanks.

[jchammond]

On my stock suspension base...the front camber is -0.8*,,,so it would take a +38 10" wheel to sit nicely under the front (7"back spacing & 4"front spacing)