Ok thanks for the input man! I'll keep saving up for FUCAs and slap everything on at the same time.

Need some help guys, i have a base model with the stock 18”s and I’m wanting to get 245 or 255/40/18 in the front and probably 285 or 295/40/18 in the rear with a new set of 18” wheels. I currently have 1.5 inch spacers in the rear and 1.25 inch in the front. I mainly have two questions as to what to be looking for in a wheel,
1 - width, do i go for 8.5 and 9.5 or 9 and 10?
2 - offset, with my 1.5 and 1.25 inch spacers, what offset wheel do i need to clear everything and look pretty fush?

if you are buying new wheels... get wheels that won't need the spacers is going to be your first bit of advice. your probably going to get asked why stick with that narrow of a tire as well? also whats your suspension setup? that'll play into your "flushness" if you are stock suspension I'd say a 10" up front with a 20mm offset and at least the same in the rear if not 11 and 10mm

Depends on what brand wheels you choose & how much negative camber (inward lean) that you’re trying to get.
How close to oem diameter do you wish to be?
What brand tires are you looking at?
Do you plan to lower your Z?
Daily Driver,or do you have something for winter use?
Lotta variables here,,,as you can fit monstrous wheels/tires underneath wheel wells.

I want to stick with 18s. I’m not lowering it, yes a daily driver. Just want to go slightly wider and get a set of wheels when I do.

Yes stock suspension. It doesnt have to be perfectly flush. I just had the wheel spacers on there to fill the wheel gap until i got new wheels/tires. So you recommend removing the spacers and just getting 10” +20 in front and 10” or 11” +10 ish in the rear?

yes if you are spending money on new wheels it makes sense to get offsets that wouldn't require spacers. the 10 or even 10.5 +20 should fit great upfront without spacers lowering or rubbing (google the rear nismo square setup). you can be more aggressive in the rear even getting a lot more meat under there. 285 up front 295-305 rears on the tires

Hey, I'm pretty new to the car scene and im unsure about my fitment. I have a 2012 base model 370z with the stock 18" rims.

I installed the airlift 3p kit. Next on my list was a new set of tires and wheels. Right now i was planning on running 245/40 in the front and 275/35 in the rear with the oem nismo rays which are 19 x 9.5 +40 in the front and 19 x 10.5 +23 in the rear. At the moment I have 225/50 in the front and 245/45 in the rear and 18x8 +43 in the front and 18x8 +15 in the rear. The fitment right now is pretty tight and when I'm aired out the fronts are touching the fender liners and the rears still have room.

Any suggestions on what I should run to get a nice flush fit.

:wtf2:

:ugh:

Lol, I guess searching has become a lost art!

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Throw your shitty *** 18s away

If u invested in air it means u need to invest in the rest of the suspension so u can get a custom alignment

Go to SPl parts website
But the front upper controls arm still and all three rear arms. Call them and they'll tell you want you need if you can't figure it out

With air and adjustable suspension you can basically run...anything

It was pretty negligent of you to pay for all that work and not look into wheel sizing and arms first
When aired out there is substantial wheel tuck so clearance should never be a problem


Something like 10 or 11 inch in front and close to zero offset
Rear something around 12 inches and zero offset

Don't even come back and ask about 18's

Need some confirmation from you wheel gurus.

With stock arms and natural camber, can I fit 19x12 +7 in the rear without rubbing? Tires are most likely going to be 295/30 or 35 with a bit of stretch. Assume ride height is around 1.5" below stock.

if you get around -2 camber you should be ok

Go with a 19x12, +28. Then you can fit anything you want.

I have a 2016 Sport with Akebono Brakes.

I am trying to get winter wheels and these Curva C7 caught my eye for cheap.

They are 18x8 +35 offset. Do you think they will clear the sport brakes?

brake clearance depends on spoke design, not offset/width

Hence why I put the name of the rims :tiphat:

help out anyone with these kind of specs or any input
 

I am looking into some GMR MS-7 wheels

http://www.vrwheels.com/images/D/DSCN6281.JPG

it is 19x10 et: +2 with 4inch lip
and rear 19x11 et: +3 with 5inch lip

Think I could fit these one my 370z without running hella camber? I have the big brakes from the touring sport so LMK.

I have airlift 3P air suspension going on just looking for fender to lip fitment or really close fitment if tucking. thanks guys

TSW Watkins 19×9.5 F and 19x10 R
 

Sharing my setup, TSW Watkins 19x9.5 +39 F with 15mm spacers and 19x10 +25 R with 17.5mm spacers. Front wheel spokes clear the Akebonos by about 7mm with the spacer. I have 20mm Z1 extended wheel studs at all 4 corners. Running 245/40r19 F and 275/35r19 R Toyo plus 4 tires (came with the car). No rubbing whatsoever, car is on Stance true type coilovers, running 1.2 degrees negative camber front with Z1 upper control arms that increase negative camber the more you turn the wheel. Rear is 1.5 degrees negative camber. Tires are almost flush with the fenders front and rear.

if you already put money into air, you're just being stupid and cheap not completing the work with a full SPL set of adjustable arms

Fronts will need around three degrees of camber and rear around two, depending on height and tire size. i mean, why did you get air suspension if you are scared of doing what's it takes to run those sizes?

I googled those wheels
It doesn't matter if they clear
Those wheels are crap
Stay stock and save up for real wheels

With those small tires. Nothing will rub. :rofl2:

And it's positive caster that will increase camber when you turn the steering wheel no matter what arms you use. But to change the caster setting. You have to have control arms that you can do it with.

Thanks for the explanation on how it works, evidently they optimized the caster increase per Z1s description.

Z1 Motorsports Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms feature an offset outer ball joint location in order to deliver an optimal caster increase. Increasing the amount of positive caster will increase steering effort and straight line tracking, as well as improve high speed stability and cornering effectiveness. Positive caster also increases camber when cornering as the steering angle is increased to keep your Z planted through hard corners.

I didn't realize how much until I turned the wheels to full lock, and half of the tread on the outside of the tire was no longer touching the pavement.

I wanted to share due to not seeing a set of these wheels on a 370z with sport brakes. I will be putting on a set of Conti Extremes 265/35r19 and 305/30r19 when I finish abusing these 😁

After seeing your tire setup I see your point. :rofl2:

you may want to take those off and throw them away before they break

if you had searched you'd see they folks have had all sorts of problems with them

What would you recommend as a setup for winter? 18 inch stocks with blizzaks?

Got any links? I couldn't find anything before I bought them or now.

Just Google SPL Suspension. Their upper arms are adjustable for both camber and caster. 90% of the track rats use their parts.

Ok cool, I have SPL camber links on the rear and they are excellent quality.

Nissan - 09+ 370Z (Z34) - Page 1 - SPLParts

Full catalog

Their arms aren't just for track guys, if you want to run any sort of aggressive wheel (yours are not), these will let your alignment guy set it all up properly

yeah

I thought you were referring to the wheels not the upper control arms. So the Z1 upper control arms have been breaking? They did send me a replacement outer ball joint set to replace the old ones I had due to a manufacturing defect.
They have held up pretty good so far, I would hate to break one at Barbers in December.....

There has been issues with their ball joints.

Ok I just found the threads related to the Z1 control arms breaking. I can see getting some SPLs in their place. Much better design. The Z1 ones came on the car when I bought it, previous owner is related to Spencer at Z1 and they did all the work on it when he had it.

Are you using loctite on the SPL hex cap double adjusters or the allen wrench bolt that locks them in after adjustment?

Nope. Antiseize. I don't want the parts to crode together.

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Hey guys a set of work meister m1s are available but sizing is sketchy af. 19x10 +31 19x12 -38. Anyone run sizing like this? I'm on swift springs/koni yellows with camber arms all 4 corners. ThanksAttachment 132264

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No typo on offsets?


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Fronts aren't aggressive at all. Rears are SUPER aggressive. Can't see those fitting without widebody or ridiculous camber.