Slammed & minimum negative camber may be tricky; as most use this to clear wheels... Sounds like you may want to lower/slam your suspension first, then preliminary set your camber/alignment with a non aggressive wheel/tire size & use spacers to push the wheels out to your desired look (without interference),,, -camber is used by many to clear aggressive stance wheel tire combo’s.
Generally on a 1”stagger wheel set, the rears are usually 10-15mm more aggressive than the fronts.
Seeing that you’re using 9.5/10.5 combo...may want to start with factory NISMO wheels first (9.5+40/10.5+23)

Here’s a pic of mine; when the F/R camber was@ -1.0* the outside rim lips of these +38 10/12’s would be equivalent to a 9.5+32/10.5+19
Stock ride height; but gives you something to go by if slammed down with your desired camber.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b28b36f0aa.jpg


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Iv gone through all the stickied wheel fitment threads and Im starting to see a trend. A lot of members talk about "you will have to run extensive camber with those specs and drop" and they arent even super aggressive. When I see and read people having -2 to around -3.5, that doesnt seem anywhere near "extensive camber" Why do a lot of members on here act like it is? I had -3 on my G35 and it hardly looked aggressive or extensive/ too much. I also go 15k miles out of my rears.

am I missing something?


https://i.imgur.com/CktdYGX.jpg

all your missing is some old school thinking

only been in the car community since 2006. I know plenty of people that PREFER stock or close to ZERO camber but they had no other reason aside from "thats what I like" or "I dont want my tires to wear out quicker". Some people treat conservative camber like its hellaflush or dumped.

Maybe you're right though, even though Im 33, I dont really understand that perspective.

Though I do understand camber and its purpose

Somewhere along the lines people got it in their head that 0 camber was where it's supposed to be. never mind the fact that most cars have some camber built in from the factory. They have a skewed view of what excessive actually is. hell I've been in the nissan car game since 2000 and I'm still learning the black arts of suspension setup. but I spent enough time with autocrossers and drifters and reading about even better autocrossers and drifters setups to get a good idea of what to do. I bet those same people that PREFER 0 degree camber setups couldn't tell the difference in a 0 degree camber car and a -2 degree camber car. either in looks or in driving feel. especially on the street. As you said -2 isn't excessive especially when the high end of factory spec is -1.8. but then where does excessive start? but i think we are on the same page. My previous comment was meant in a "you aren't missing anything important" kinda way.

The people that prefer 0 camber don't know what camber is.

agreed...I guess Id say "excessive" is when it compromises safety in the rain? I guess even then, you can give reasons why even what I consider modest, under -3, could start to cause safety issues due to outter contact patch of the tire not being fully on the road *shrug*

How people talk about camber depends on their background, or lack thereof. Thats why a DESCRIPTION like "excessive" or "extensive" doesn't help at all. For some dumbass who has never run aftermarket suspension and only drive to the grocery store, anything other than stock is "excessive"

For a VIP car on bags, -7 is just a regular Tuesday afternoon.

Camber settings are relevant because the Z DOES NOT HAVE FRONT ADJUSTMENT. There is some range in the rear

There is some camber from raising/lowering the car, but its not within your specific control.

Camber can greatly affect wheel fitment. I have steadily maintained that with the correct combination of camber, height, fender rolling, and wheel/tire sizing, you can fit essentially everything on the Z. It has a buttload of fitment, you just have to put in the effort.

This is why adjustable arms, especially in front, are so important. SPL/Voodoo arms are fully camber AND caster adjustable, so once you have those, you've unlocked the full capability of the Z.

It's also why gauging "fit" when the car is in the air is basically worthless.

You'd need to have way more than -3 deg camber for "rain safety" to be compromised.

And I would suspect tire design has a much greater affect on rain driving than any camber setting from 0 to -3.

Also, from the picture of your Z, it looks like there's a 2 finger gap from tire to fender, which also affects how your car looks

Just check out stancenation for infinite examples

A setting at or near 0* is more ideal for a Dragstrip setup, or if one chooses to roast his/her tire’s & wants the most even treadwear. This a 345 off the rear of mine w/just over 14k miles & with -1.0* camber,,,though this isn’t terrible; I have blistered up some with -1.75’ish & was way worse.
Front tires have always worn even across the tread & if you’re not hard on lower speed acceleration as myself- you should be ok.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0d27534c13.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dc66bd64cd.jpg


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to make it short...I think camber amount is all about personal taste. TOO MUCH, well we know it when we see it, if we have some common sense.

:google:

we need a mix of flush and hellaflush

Will 20x9.5+45 front 20x10.5+25 rear fit with 285/30/20 305/30/20? Thanks in advance! I plan to run Michelin PSS tires F/R.

Rear’s will fit with no issues; Fronts will be tight on clearance (turning lock to lock) as I had about a pinky finger with my +38 offset 19x10’s w/285/35’s.
And your +45’s are just 1mm further inward.
Mine was on stock suspension & you can view outer lip fitment a couple pics further back up thread...your outside lips will be 1/2” further inward than mine & 1/4” further in on rears.
You’re practically looking at 4mm front & 2mm Rear less aggressive fitment than OE Nismo Wheels.
I never rubbed anywhere-but check front really well...as you didn’t mention anything about your suspension or desired camber specs.

Thanks for the quick reply! I plan to lower the car 1 inch on bc br Coilovers with z1 front and rear adjustable arms. I may go to a smaller spec on the front thanks for the advice!

You may need some extra clearance on backside of fronts w/Coilovers...I never had them before.
You may want to view all of the Z’s on this thread to get a better idea of fitment & alignment specs required.
[Official]370z wheel fitment guide (pics/specs) only.

somehow you managed to find wheels with worse sizing than stock
i hope you didn't spend money on these

I knew it was coming; I had to chuckle!

a stock nismo is 9.5, +40 and 10.5, +23

Why the hell would anyone buy something worse than that? boggles the mind

keep your stock wheels until you can afford something better
seems like a pretty simple concept
doesn't need to be te37 ultras
lots of decent stuff out there

Aww someone must be having a bad day. Lol what a joke!

If you can’t even post constructive criticism why even post? Seems like you must be a waste of life optionzero

Hahahah
If you can't handle someone calling out your crappy wheel sizing then you might need to take better advantage of living in Colorado, smoke more weed

What about some Niche Mulsanne step lip wheels? I have a stock suspension but plan do drop it bout 1-1.5 inches. I’m looking for a big lip and flush fit. Sorry I don’t know much about offsets. I’m thinking 19x11 rear and 19x10 front

Back up to quote #2579 of this thread,,,search the thread on this forum that’s posted on bottom of that post (it’s not hyperlinked), look through all of those Z’s & you’ll get an idea of what you’re looking for/ as far as lowered part & wheel/tire specs....then you can get a good idea of the wheel,tire,fuca’s & any other parts needed for alignment with the lowering.
That’s a very good starting point.

Might wanna learn about wheel sizing by reading through the wheel fitment threads in this forum

Find a setup you like
Go from there

You're throwing out terms like "big lip" and flush
If you wanna go there, be prepared to do what it takes

Whether you have the budget and effort is step 1

You're missing this isn't a Honda fanboi page? lol
Slammed cars with massive camber are not meant to be driven track, spirited or otherwise anything really aggressive without accepting that you are about to trash your ride in some way shape or form. Buuuuuttt.... if you're slammed and make your fairlady look like a fat lady in Uggs, you probably don't care about trashing your ride... more... :nutswinger::gtfo2::rofl2:

cuts deep! If this post isnt 100% honest, I dont know what is. Some people need Options tough love to listen to whats being said.


Dont worry man, Iv been on this site since the beginning

Iam confused though, none of your post has anything to do with me or my question. What you've done here is just take my post as an opportunity to talk sh*t about people that slam their cars or go hellaflush. If you look at my sig, youll clearly see, Im not into doing that to my cars. I was looking for insight from people that think -3 camber is extreme. You should try and give your personal view on camber, not sh*t talk peoples tastes.

Unless you think -3 camber and a 1.5 to 2" drop is slammed and crazy camber, than that would explain your post, as vague and poor as it was.

clearly.

very clearly. Referencing extreme camber is a very narrow margin in a Z. Lil less confused now? ...:hello:
well good thing you didn't take it personally then... oh.. wait...
and I gave it. Multiple times now. I'll search for my "how to modify a car contrary to design for dummies" in a bit.
thus ends our object lesson on the definition of irony folks


more irony... guess we weren't done :nutswinger:
Insight = opinion and reasons for it. All if which you ask for, you got, then whined about. Now... Do you have a real question about fitment or more "gimme opinion so I can tell you you're wrong" BS? If you've been here since the start, you should know better. Or you are just a troll looking for a fight...
Hint for next round: less personal ego and butthurt, more paying attention to sarcastic wit and dry humor... even denoted with chuckle worthy emjoi

Some people here helped me with my fitment a few months ago, and I finally got them on today! Went with Forgestar's recommended "flush" sizes; 19x9.5 255-35r19 Front and 19x11 305-30r19 Rear. They are very flush and even poke a little, in love with the look.

https://i.imgur.com/e2sz0Lz.jpg

looking to order a set of 19" te37, what are the recommended specs and tire size if i want to be meaty and low

here ya go. You dont need to see TEs specifically, just need to see 19s with very similar offsets and a car with the ride height you want. I personally would only be able to give an estimate. There are members here that would be able to give you a really close set of specs.


Besides, its fun to look at all the set ups people have.

Meaty tire thread
http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...re-thread.html

Volk thread, lots of TEs in there
http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...ost-um-up.html

Thank you^^^ only thing i can’t decide is 19x10.5 with +22 offset or +12, what is the differencs itll make

Study a wheel backspacing chart & learn difference between + offset wheels vs. -
The higher the number + (positive offset) the further inward the wheel will sit.
A - wheel (negative offset) will move outwardly,,,more common on lifted trucks or wide body conversions.
+22 will sit 10mm further inward than a +12 of same width wheel.
Not all wheels of same spec will clear larger brakes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...21470c5ac8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fefc87ab68.jpg


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What would be the best tire size combo for these specs?

Base Z
18x9.5 +22
18x10.5 +15

Looking for both specs in a slight stretch, and a no stretch at all.

I have a stock 2011 roadster sport touring. 19 inch rays, only difference is I have 20mm spacers all around.

What are the biggest/widest tires for front and rear I can use and still have no rubbing.

standard tires for those widths are 245/35 front and 275/30 rear. VERY subtle stretch.

Iv seen people go up to 275/35 up front and 305/30 in the rear for a really meaty look though. You have a lot of options with those wheel widths.