Bought them in a special close out sale from your rack. They maybe discontinued for this size, I looked it up again and it's not showing. I was going for 265/35s but for 88 ea I bought the 265/40s. Little did I know I made a mistake buying taller tires. Given another chance I would buy the right size and not went cheap. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4446d9c004.jpg

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Yep;
Those are Full-sized meat's on a 9" wheel,,,
a 245/40 or maybe a 255/40 would have cleared...but i remember trying on my 275/40's up front on rear base wheels & it was taken right back off.
You did well spending that small amount for tires-may be able to re-sell them for at least what you paid?

I think I would do that. It would be the simplest way to solve my problem. Since I messed up on the tires, I should just replace the front and run stagger. As much as I love to run square, it won't happen with 265/40s size.

So...
Overall diameter for 265/40 is ~26", while 255/35 is ~25". (F:255/35 R:265/40)

Anyone have experience how our cars handle with rake from different tire size.. Or it won't make a difference?

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Be sure & get an accurate measure on clearance; as would not be good to buy 2 more tires & they scrub also...slight rake makes fuel gauge more accurate (lol).
I'm 26.8"F & 27.1"R drives great.

Did more internet reading.. 265/35 Pirelli p zero is slight wide than re-11 265/35 by 0.2 inches.
So definitely going with 255/35. this seems the general setup, comparing anyone running a 18x9 +15 in front, in the forum.

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Just be sure & keep front/rear tire diameter differential to a minimum.
I've always heard max 3%, but around 2% is more common.
Too much & lots of warning lights will be lit up on dash ( Christmas Tree effect),,,so keep that in consideration if you stagger tire diameter.

If my maths is right...
Percentage difference 26" -25" diameter

(((26-25)/(26+25))/2)*100 = 1.07%

1.07% shouldn't be noticeable then...

Thanks for the input

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OH MY GOD

Following that exchange between jhammond and pumpgas is making my fuckin head hurt.

ARGH

1) Regarding the wheel diameter difference:
255/35/18 is 25 inches
265/40/18 is 26.3 inches

That is a 1.3 inch difference. 1.3 inches is 5.2% of 25 inches. You are likely to experience warning lights due to this difference.

2) Why your setup looks and fits different than this setup you're looking at:
Thats a 265/35/18. You bought, apparently because they're cheap, 265/40/18. Thats obviously a taller tire AND the linked car has -2.4 deg camber, which solves the rubbing issue

Combine lack of camber and taller tire = rubbing more than that guy.

Your car naturally gains negative camber as you go lower, but the correct way to do it is to buy adjustable suspension parts, roll your fenders, and then you can run whatever wheels you want.

If you want a cheap fix, just get the 265/35 and pound your fenders

but you really should just buy the fukin SPL and save yourself future headache

You'd most likely have no problematic symptoms other than fitment. The problem comes with the rolling speed of the rear tires are faster than the front. In that case ABS and traction control may fail, abs would start fluttering or release the brake pressure, traction intervention would be way more intrusive. With the rear tires larger than the front, the RPM of the rear is slower.

On most approved ABS systems, the difference is 4% at 60mph, as tested by many, if not all major manufactures.

Yikes! Can't thank everyone enough. Just bought spc front upper control arms. Before you guys freak out, I have read the countless accounts between spc and spl.. I truly believe spc will be enough for what I am capable to do with the car. Since my rears fits fine, I'll be leaving it as is.

My goal is to not roll my fenders forgo thread life, bc stance life. Anyways, I do believe the -2.4° will be good for handling provided it was taken from track spec...

I'll be posting finished product over in 18s thread and I'll edit a link here.

Again, thank you all for the input and care. Awesome community! Another reason I bought the Z, the helpful community of z owners.


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I failed to mention that the caveat of this inverse wheel speed, is that ABS and Traction control may fail to properly engage in the adverse scenario as it wont detect a significant wheel speed difference unless you lock the wheels. So you will be much more prone to locking the wheels and then ABS might kick in late and cause some annoying sensations, certainly in wet situations.

TC may allow more wheel spin as well, which may sound fine in a straight line, but not so much through a corner. In such case you may want to drive with TC off. The problem with incorrect TC intervention isn't oversteer, but understeer and snap direction changes when TC finally engages, which in almost all cases is much much worse. Going *** in to a crash is safer than nose first. Of course there is much more to this "scenario", but those are the potential drama's.

The other issue is the decrease in caster, adding to the already low caster angles, the steering will be even more loose then roll into annoying low speed understeer as the rear wheels drag through the corner. A immediate correction here would be to add toe-in front, more positive camber in the rear (+-.05)

Sorry for the preaching.

hello!

Thinking about running a square setup.

Will this work: 18x11 +14 285/40 ?

Rear is easy
Fronts are hard

Front upper arms to get around 3 deg camber, plus roll fenders and trim some liner. Also trim the front bumper tab

I have 18x11 +18 square and test fitted the fronts with NT555R's in 305/35 and I had no issues with rubbing or grinding up front. My front camber is at -2.6. Those 285's are gonna be stretched quite a bit on an 11" rim.

Why dont you go 18x10.5 instead? As Hotrodz said, Those 285 will be really strectched

I went back and forth on a 10.5 +22 but I wanted a true square setup so after I test fitted with 305/35 I decided to go stay with the square setup. I will be running 315's!

I'm not a track guy; but seems the 27" tire may be a bigger issue than the 285 width.
Hotrodz says 305/35's didn't rub on his & they're roughly 26.5"...seems like a better fit than the 285/40's on the 11".
But 315/30's on all 4 corners is gonna take some whp/tq to get around the track.
:)

Nah

Had 275 27" up front before on 9.5" +25 and no rubbing. There's going to be some variation depending on wheels, tires, offset of course but unless a guy is running something like +40 I can't see there being an issue

The wheels specs are 18x11+14's on all 4 corners; that's a tad on the aggressive side w/27" rubber.

"really stretched" . . . c'mon

It won't be square, but dont act like its a fuckin 215 or something. I'm running 275 on an 11, its fine

.

Yeah that definitely is. Missed that part.

Current rears are 19x10.5 +12 with 325/30 but that rolls 26.7 instead. If I hit a bump like crossroads at 50+ then I'll get a slight rub on the rears. That is likely due to the Nismo flares though.

Fronts now are 19x9.5 +12 so pretty much irrelevant to this discussion. Can't imagine 11" wide up front though, especially in a +14. They are going to poke like an inch unless its stances to hell lol

I'm +18 and the poke is under an inch with the camber I am running. I don't care about poke...race car!

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Thank you everyone for your input.

@hotrodz I suppose I didn't really think of that. I'm not opposed to 305's if it'll clear. Plan on sticking with Pilot SS. Do you mind posting a pic of your setup? tia.

The car is in the body shop getting some beauty treatment lol. Will post up when I get tires mounted and on the car! :p

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So there's way too many posts on here for me to even be able to tell if someone's asked lol. So I'ma just ask. Got offered a pretty good deal for some Ferrada Fr3's and I know that they will fit but my question is what lowering kit should I get so I can still get that low look but also won't scrap. I'd also like to know how big of tires I could go without having to roll my fenders..
Specs:
Front: 20x9.5
Rear: 20x11
Btw im stock everything right now

What size tires?

What offset?

pretty skeptical of someone that says "lowering kit" and gives wheel sizes without offsets . . . .

Looking to get these wheels.Forgestar M14 Wheels on 2016 touring sport twin turbo.
19 inch rims.
Front 9.5
Back 11
What would you suggest for off set and tire size.
Do you have a suggestion for a differnt set up.
Stock suspension.

9.5 + 20
11 +15
Will fit within stock camber specs if ur willing to run more camber u can go wider. Optionzero has closer offsets to camber numbers he can chime in


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T

19x9.5 = 15mm offset with 245/40 tires
19x11 = 12-15mm offset with 285 or 295/35 tires

Kind of unrelated, but does anyone know if Z wheels would fit on a q60 coupe? They're both Nissan and have the same thread pattern. Not sure about offsets, etc. Can't seem to find the specs anywhere online for the Q60 coupe wheels other than their sizes.

Fronts need camber arms to adjust negativr camber


I think +22 safer for stock susp

Being twin-turbo; you'll probably want to adjust rear camber on the positive side of the spec sheet-as you'd have more rubber planted.
A conservative spec 9.5/11 would be +32F/+25R, 275/35F & 325/30R.
But it's different strokes for different folks.

might be a good idea to get off stock suspension when you're "twin turbo"

Whoops, ya, I forgot to read that:wtf2:

Yep, that's what you gonna need to run the more aggressive 19x9.5+15 wheel that was previously mentioned before that comment was made.
What are your plans for the car? Spirited driving,track,etc..
And do you plan to lower suspension any?
These are good things to know before ordering wheels & determining where they're gonna sit.

Thank You for the help.
I do not track car.I do enjoy spirited driving.I had not planed on lowering.The only suspension change I made was larger sway bars front and back.I know this is off topic but what would you suggest for springs and coilovers?This car will be used as a driver.I really liked the car when I got it but thought it was lacking in power so the turbos.
Again thank everyone for all the help.

I spirit drive mine & hard acceleration from slow to no speed...so i frequently light the tires.
With this being said;i have factory suspension up front & only adjustable camber arms in rear,My camber is sitting at -0.9*/-0.8* up front (non-adjustable).
My rear has been adjusted from -1.60* to -0.9'ish (the same as front)...so my tire wear stays even & doesn't wear out the inner portion.
rear tires currently have (5.5/32") on inner & (6/32") outer tread remaining from 10/32" new...I have no problem's in the curves & pretty close to maxed out on rear backspacing at 8".
As far as springs go...that's when you'll need to buy some quality SPL Fuca's & some rear component's to have full control of adjustments to suspension...For as you go low-wheels will lean inward (-camber) & you will want to spec that for your desired driving or look.
I can't answer for the coil's...as they may take up more room than factory parts & could cause interference w/wrong spec'd wheels.