Look's like your "Pipes" bout dragging from all that Power & Wing/Parachute downforce...in pic above!

Lo they never touch even over the rumble stripes! :p

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why it pokes, i do not know.
 

I bout 2 extra rear base enkei wheels to be installed in the front for a square setup. Following the examples in "[Official] 370z wheel fitment guide" and "will it fit" threads i thought i go ahead and do a square setup of 18x9+15 with 265/40s on all 4.

front wheel/tire setups i've found in mentioned threads:
Enkei RPF1 - F1 Silver F:18x9.5 +15 R:18x10.5 +15
Bridgestone RE-11 F:265/35R18 R:275/35R18
link to thread post

My desired setup:
Enkei base 370z wheels 18x9 +15 with pirelli p zero 265/40/18 on all 4 corners.

So, with that information i went and bought the base rear wheels to be mounted in front.

Now that i have them installed, they are poking and rubbing at front. where did i go wrong?

reference pic of my wheel setup
front left
http://i.imgur.com/XHCp8rm.jpg
front right
http://i.imgur.com/fbHuzaG.jpg

Looking into fender rolling. don't care about poke. I just dont like when tires rubbing to fenders and etc... Thoughts and opinions please.

The 265/40's are about 1" taller than the 265/35's you said was on the other Z,
Also you will probably need to get adjustable control arms up front & lean those wheels in some...that will lessen the poke.

Thanks for the reply. I did more reading into fitment.. like you mention i could add camber to tuck it in..

So, which brings me to these two choices;
1) i get it rolled like i said before or 2) i go for the alignment rout and mess with camber. Which one would be the best rout?


Side note:
the Z is my DD with occasional track time (~3-6 events/year) and a lot of late night spirited driving. the goal: eliminate rub (don't care much bout poke; i do understand no poke=no rub)

Some people add lowering springs & don't buy front upper control arms (fuca's) and the negative camber lies within specs....pending on which springs you get.


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Are lowered or at stock height? If you are lowe then you could increase your ride height as well. Rolling the bumper will eliminate the rub but it won't help at all with getting proper camber.

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Unsure if you ran spacers on your base 18x8's,,,but the outer lip's on the base 9's sits just over 40mm (1.6") further out.

Im on stock everything (toe, caster and camber alignments, suspension height, and suspension hardware) and no spacers.

Im shocked that messing with tire size would take me out the sweet spot what stock fenders can fit. I figured since it was same wheel specs it would tuck fine even if i chose to go with a size taller tires. I honestly thought i have more tolerance if i only missed the tire size by 1 up. FML

a side note. Since my z will be mostly street i only plan to switch to nismo tune suspension and the adjustable alignment kit. But going full coilovers is still a maybe.

Yeah, you should follow what jc said or you need smaller tires. The deal is once you start messing with your suspension it can get costly. You will be looking at about $1200 for spl rear camber arms and front a arms. It is a good investment if you don't want to buy tires every six months!

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Yep; those offsets can end up being a huge costly error for some; as be glad you didn't drop thousands on wheels (as I've seen others do) & realize it will take another 2-3k to make everything fit & then will occasionally rub,scrape or wear out the inner part of tires prematurely....confirm what you read on these threads; as all information posted about someone's setup,,,may not be exactly as worded.
Just ask "Rusty" & how many times I messaged him about those HUGE 345's on 19x12's before I ordered mine.
People will help lend a hand w/specs on different things; but you also Learn more when you make a slight mistake/ than when you do it right...

Trying to get the right offsets first try on a 4K+ worth of wheels is stressful. It took me over 4 months of going back and forth, double checking everything 10 times. I have 3 more months to wait to see if I got it right.

Aye! The anticipation is killing you, I bet. Post pics when you get/install them. Good luck, im sure you got it right.

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I had no worries when I got my Forgelines. I went through Eric at GetYourWheels. It did feel like it took forever tho.

pumpgas89,
Unsure if you would consider going 19's, As 4-19x9 Sport fronts or 4-19x9.5 Nismo fronts w/spacers (if desired & as needed) would be the least likely to rub.
Some guy's on here are running 4-19x10 Sport rears.
I like the 5spoke base wheels myself; as mine came with them...245/45,275/40/18 was a good fitment w/20mm spacers up front & 5mm out back.
Also-post a side picture of your Z, as I'm trying to look up the specs on those Pirelli tires you have & can't seem to find them by that size.

I tried to get with them about a set of Forgeline wheels. They said they didn't sell them anymore. So I moved on.

:( You could have gone straight to Forgeline.

Forgeline wheels are Badazz; just a wee-bit out of my price range right now...I know that a monoblock 19x12 is just 20lbs. Vs my 28lb. 19x12 Forgestars.

You have fully adjustable suspension. There's pretty much nothing that won't fit with height/camber tweaks

And roll the damn fenders with a professional

LOL, Yeah I can. I just want them to be perfect with minimal mods. I should be good to go. Just cut the tab off the front inner fender wells and be good to go.

I was looking for great service also. Chris at getyourwheels is highly recommended. I also recommend Josh at Kamispeed. In my book you need a great product along with great customer service. I think I have chosen wisely. Gotta remember, these wheels are expensive and if you don't like them or the way they fit, tough luck on you.

:iagree: I bought my wheels from Josh and he was very helpful and their prices are very good as wheel.

Know what you mean. Fogeline reached out to me when I had a question about going bigger on the front. :tup:

He earned his money with me.... LOL I am very OCD about wheels for some reason. Guess I have not gotten it perfect enough that I obsess over it. The factory Nismo wheels are awesome and I didn't want to it to be worse.

:iagree::iagree:

Dang; I must be different-I spec'd my own wheels out,,,but a measurement was taken at about every angle possible & multiple times.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...635a57a009.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0e6183026b.jpg


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Agreed. I'm not entirely sure the weight savings is worth the cost penalty. I'd be afraid to ever use those with serious driving on or off the track.

28ibs for a 19x12 is pretty good. Certainly with all that potential rubber :yum:. But of course, off setting 8ibs per wheel for the weight penalty of a 325 tire would be advantageous. What is the average weight of a 325/30r19 tire? 28-34ibs?

Michelin 325/30/19's are listed @32 vs. 35# for their 345.
Nitto Invo's are 35 & 37.

I still have your specs. I was limited on what offsets I could get with 3 piece wheels.

what sizes did you end up going with?

because with my 20x12 +20 rears i have a ton more room
i have a 315/25/20 and my alignment guy and i both eyeballed it. I could go either to a 325, or go even more aggressive with a 20x11 +0, or run even less camber (currently at -2)

this is even at my height, which is top of tire barely under fender

i'm assuming you will not be as low, so you should EASILY be able to fit a 325/25/20 on a 20x12 +20, which will look fantastic. this is GTR fitment wheel/tire from rays/advan

if i ever get around to buying more wheels, i'd probably get something like:
grip: 285/30/20 and 325/25/20 on 20x10.5 +24 and 20x12 +20
street: 245/35/20 and 285/20 on 20x10 +0 and 20x11 +0

and slap on a cup kit when i get a raise, lol


i don't know why you need a 345 with N/A. turbo guys sure

Invo's fit with ease up front (pinky-finger) & rear's are a bit tighter (1/2 pinky-finger@traction arm bolt & maybe index-finger@shock)...The 345 PSS's are about 1/2" wider at the section; would get interesting bolting those up w/8" back-spacing wheels.
I cannot complain about ride quality or handling with these wheels/tires,,,even in all of the rain we have been recently getting.
They just knife through the water instead of any hydroplaning.
One thing that is required...lol...you have to stay in the throttle a bit longer before coming to a stop/as 4'+ rubber on the road is way more than what i took off +added 48lbs. rotating mass....sorta washed out some of my added bolt-on power...also 2-2.5mpg less.

optionZ - Did you look at how much internal space you have to the strut and inner liner?

Mine was primarily for the look's,but still will blister them if desired...they have added 1 sec. to my 0-125mph,,,so looking into a gear swap-but loving the ride/handling on the 27" tires.
The 20" wheel's will actually give a tad more backspace clearance,as they will fill the groove in the upper front's & help clear the traction arm bolt...Would have to go Forgeline w/20's,,,if i get the opportunity...eyeballing the SPL book at fuca's,mid-link's,camber,traction arms & a good lowering spring that's around 1" or so.

Didn't measure it, confident i didn't need to given how many people run crappier . . . i mean, more conservative fitments.

If they fit, i can fit, since i'm mainly pushing outward. i don't experience any rubbing except on the steepiest of ramps taken in correctly (so driver laziness). preserving my front bumper is a bigger concern than rubbing, which is why i haven't gotten a front lip yet. if i get a cup kit, i'd feel ok with a lip

The Z has cavernous wheel wells, which is why I frequently tell people that once they step up to adjustable suspension components (basically, SPL everything) and a good set of coilovers with independent height adjustment and find a good alignment shop, there is nothing you can't fit

if u want to run zero offset and dump the car, you can do it
if u want to stuff as much tire as possible, you can do it
and of course u can do everything in between

all it takes is adjusting the height, camber, and caster, plus a fender roller (most places charge like $100 for all 4 corners, they should even discount u if you're getting other stuff done)

FYI - the guys on the track forum seem to be running 285 and/or 295, albeit in much sticker compounds than street guys. anything else is really just looks or for turbo

I DD and track my Forgeline's. :tup: :driving:

Go BIG or go home. :tup: :driving: Why do you need 20's? 19's are enough.

simple
for looks
and at the time, the 19 inch TE37 didn't have enough concavity
of course, as soon as i ordered it, the 19 inch TE37 ultra was released

but i still prefer 20s for looks

tall *** tires do nothing for me

Front Spec: 19x10.0 +29
Rear Spec: 19x11.5 +30

Tires sizes are Front 285/35/19, Rear 325/30/19, RE11's for both.

I can't afford to get too crazy with the camber due to driving 25,000 to 30,000 miles a year. So that was a big factor. I had a chance to buy 20' top of the line 3 piece wheels but I passed. I prefer to run the RE11's due to how sticky they are and how long they last. Spinning the 325's running NA right now with the OS Giken LSD is very hard to do. LOL I could dump the clutch and get them spinning but I just don't see the need.

and I don't like gum bands wrapped around my rims either. :D

:tiphat:..i was more or less talking about monoblock wheels. 3-pieces are rebuildable. Kiss those suckers goodbye if you smash a monoblock.