Some tires, like RE11 are specifically designed sidewalls to offer some rim protection.

:tiphat:

yea...that's not even remotely accurate lol.

yea and that only works properly if the tire size matches the wheel size accurately...

Yea...and you wouldn't scrap the rim on a curb as bad if you had more tire protection :tup:

Also i assure you, with enough cornering force and the right bump, you can easily hit the rim under normal driving conditions if you have a tire that is too small and too stretched.

And i'm not talking about your specific setup, but excessively stretched tires in general. If you are using a 275 on a 11" wheel, i agree that's not extreme, but you said minor, and that IS a relatively wide stretch. It may not be full ricer stance boi stretch, but it is a bit excessive.

I don't know if this is dumb question but why would someone want to run a 275 on an 11" wheel? Just because they like the stretched look? If I'm buying wider wheels it's so I can run wider tires. My question would be, what is the widest tire I can run on an 11" wheel, not what's the narrowest tire I can run on an 11" wheel? :icon17:

Depends on the tire mfg. I have 345/30/19’s in the Nitto Invo; mounted on 12’s & they’re actually a tad stretched vs. the 285/35’s on 10’s up front.
The tires section width can vary 1” easily on identical sized tires w/different mfg.
In the PSS/PS4S,RE11 or Continental extreme contact-325/30’s are good fitment.
You can run the 345/30 Invo’s on an 11; as they’re 1/2” narrower than the PSS & 1” narrower than the C1 cup tire’s.

Not dumb at all. There are valid reasons to stretch a tire, one is wheel fitment. A 11 inch wheel can give a better offset and spoke concavity. But the downside is the optimal tire height/width won't clear the fenders. Smaller tires will tuck under the fender.

Companies do it from factory to actually reduce sidewall flex and improve immediate steering response. This has been established for years*. Most notably our cars. 245 on a 9.5 wheel, 285 or 275 on a 10.5".

Largest tire you should run a 11" wheel is a 325, optimal is a 315 or 305.

May’s - you gotta get more trial & error experience.
I’m running 295/55/20’s on my Tahoe w/ factory 8.5” Wheels.
I ran 305/70/16’s for over 200k on factory 16x7” Wheels.
I’ve seen 345/30/18’s on 10.5 Wheels.
Oem “stretches” 245/40’s on a 9.5” front Nismo.
Just because Tire Rack gives you a range of wheel sizes/ doesn’t mean you can’t go up or down a bit.
I mount 520/70/34’s,17.5x25’s,14x24’s,255,275,295,385,425’s on 22.5 Wheels on regular basis...many more not listed.
When you are performing the work “Yourself” & not paying to have done or reading what works best,will only get you in the hall field.
Again-it’s how you desire the look & what’s appealing to the individual.
As far as a 275 on an 11....look at what the 4sec. 1/8th Mile car rear wheels are w/275 drag radials.
I have 35yrs. Experience in this field & still learning....please don’t bash guy’s on here; as some have lots more than myself.

I'm not sure you read what i said correctly if you think I'm bashing anybody. I just gave valid reasons why you could stretch a tire. I've tried several tires and tire fitments on cars already in my short time driving. I don't need to try unaccesary tire fitments if i understand and know what is optimal for the rim size and cars space and weight. I spend a lot of money on my tires, I'm not gonna trash them by not getting the best handling, wear and feedback from them because i decided to go too large or too small. Function is significantly more important to me and some people than visual appeal, and personally i don't think there is anything visually appealing about a incorrect fitment. I respect everyone's personal choices certainly when they have no bearing on my life. But this a forum about sharing ideas. I'm not gonna suggest something that's flawed by design and guidelines. PROFESSIONAL GUIDELINES.

Optionzero even agreed he personally does it for aesthetic value and if he was to "track" his car, he would put a more optimal tire setup on. I personally drive spiritedly all the time, so i know i need the most functional fitment 24/7. Using the wrong tire size has downsides to handling and wear. I'm sure many will agree and know this to be true. So why should i suggest to anyone or experiment with the incorrect size? There is plenty of information out there with the CORRECT guidelines to go by. The one consistent bit of information is using the optimal sizing. Not "experiment until you get it right". If that was the norm, people would be wasting money left and right getting it wrong. I don't suggest people live like that regardless of how much time and money you have to waste.

Drag radials for those fitments come with massive sidewalls, not tiny low profile sidewalls that will not deform or stretch properly. This is a huge difference from stretching a 275/30 on a large 19+ wheel. And most of the time you still use the correct rim size. In any case drag radials are still not ideal for normal driving conditions, so it's rather irrelevant.

Your trucks you describe also use large sidewalls, and just because you are getting away with it, doesn't make it optimal. You'd unquestionably have better steering response if you were using the optimal size for the wheel. A 305 on a 8.5 wheel is excessive regardless if it works.

Good Reply May’s

My goal has been to expand what people think is possible for wheel fitment. If you dig through early pages of some of these wheel threads, you get a laughably limited view of what can fit.

If I had told them that i'm running 20x11, +15 and 20x12, +20, these early Z posters heads would likely explode.

It's 2017 - the tuning world is tremendously diverse now. I hate to see people stuck in the past, applying old principles that they took from their MkII golf or C5 corvette and using it to put a ceiling on what you can do on a Z.

Not every style is for everyone, but i try to take a practical view on things.

Let's be honest: few of us here are race car drivers, none of us should be doing that crap on the street

No one drives on drag radials to go to the supermarket, using that as a guideline for wheel fitment is ridiculous to me.

Clinging to principles that are 100% function is only good for bench racing - if you aren't ON a track, let's not pretend. The folks that DO go to the track hardcore run through multiple sets of tires, rotors, pads anyways.

Why am I running 20x11 +15 front? I'll be perfectly blunt. I wanted face-4, the maximum amount of concavity for the TE37 ultra. 20x10.5, +24 gets you that, but changes the depth of the disc mounting service and i wanted it to be uniform on all 4 corners.

I am much farther down the flush spectrum than most folks, but i'm not comfortable with the VIP/drift style of -7 camber and rim-kissing-fender; i also don't despite the sunken battleship fitment of jhammond. I picked what i like, my balance between the two ends of the spectrum. I'm still fitting more rubber than most people here, and its 30mm more than what nismo comes with on all 4 corners.

So do whatever you want to your car, its yours. Just don't think there's only one way to do it, and don't limit whats possible.

like ive said repeatedly, now that the SPL FUCA is available, there is basically nothing you can't fit in front. The only question is how much time/effort you're willing to put into it.

OZ: You sunk my Battleship!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e6f8af22c.jpg


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I'm not sure how much more opposite you can be to what i like. Automatic, silver, red wheels, bulbous fitment.

but u do u

I think his looks better then your's. Meaty tires. :tup:

Plus one. :rolleyes: the size and fitment at least.